derrickdj1 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) I have been contemplating on adding additional wooferage to my system. The dilemma surrounds building a subwoofer, or purchasing two more from Parts Express( Dayton 2 ohm DVC 18 in. Ultimax sub kit). This is the cheapest and easiest solution. There are two goals, lower extension and/or increase spl from 15 Hz and up. The system already has 2 vented Ultimax and 2 dual sealed Ultimax subs. The sub build would be a 21 or 24 in. monster vs just adding 2 more sealed or vented Ultimax subs. Parts Express kit is only for a sealed box, so for a vented one, I would have to make one. Alternative and suggestions are welcome. How much gain in wooferage will make a meaningful impact? The size of the room is large, 5300 cu. ft with little room gain until the single digits. For clarification, the Ultimax addition would be 2 sealed or 2 vented boxes vs on box of a 21 or 24 inch sub. Edited April 13, 2015 by derrickdj1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 add a couple more ported if you have the room. maybe a couple full martey's tuned right at 17z. they will give a lot from 17 on up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 I have heard about the Marty sub and it seems real good. Space wise two sealed boxes would be easier to stack. The kit is around $350 for the driver and box. This is on the side of overkill but, I am so close to where I would be totally happy. I thought about a 21 or 24 and just use it 40 Hz and under. It is my understanding that using the same sub will not get you lower extension, just more of what you already have down low. The output of a ported box is hard to pass up on. This is where the dilemma comes in, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Your bottom paragraph was the first thing I was gonna tell you but figured you probably already knew. Are you ACTUALLY not happy with what you have? I've left my downstairs subs alone for so long I'm really pour of myself. I've though of adding more sealed, or switching to ported but then I really think to myself, can I get any happier? I mean I love it down there now. Then I throttle back and then never never end up doing It. Buying a 24 seems senseless in a basement room to get you a little extra output from 40 on down and anything below 15 would be hardly noticeable IMO over your existing setup. Sealed is always easier. Smaller. Less wood. Quick to build. Goes lower. So many things. But if you want more output and that is truly what you want more of then ported is the way to go. Adding two sealed just isn't much. Now if you were gonna add 4-8 more sealed then I'd say get rid of your ported two and just have 8+ sealed subs Like I said I'm so happy with 4 the only time I would ever use more would be at STUPID CRAZY demos. And I just rarely do that with people. And it's gotta be a Avs bass head that I even have to do that for. Any normal person comes over and is blown away without me running subs 10-15db hot. lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 My sub is DIY Dayton 15" Titanic. 7ft3 box with single 6" port tuned at around 22hz. It has impressed everyone who has heard it and kept up with Lascalas at full volume. It digs way below what I can hear and the pressure in my ears could become uncomfortable in a 24x22 room. Just food for thought. I have not heard the 18" Dayton's so I can't compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) 2 vented Ultimax 2 dual sealed Ultimax The sub build would be a 21 or 24 in. monster Personally I would be skeptical of mixing together three different subwoofer types. I couldn't even get two sounding seamless. The size of the room is large, 5300 cu. ft with little room gain until the single digits. Everything I've read seems to say that ported is always the way to go with larger rooms like that. Edited April 13, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 Eight sealed driver has less output than I currently have. They will have slightly better extension but, the loss of output would vote against only 8 sealed subs. I am amazed at the subs HT performance and happy with what I have at this point. Adding two more sealed may support the around 15 Hz response. See graph: The goal is to just get more ULF/output at the MLP with the least amount of subs, cost for the 15-20 Hz region. This would not even be a goal if I was in a smaller space with my current subs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Guess I just don't have the same problem. I have gobs of output down to 8. How about two sealed ultimax right behind your couch. I've got a buddy who runs 6 up front and two nearfield firing right into his main two seats. One of the coolest sub setups I've ever experienced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 13, 2015 Author Share Posted April 13, 2015 (edited) Two nearfield sealed could be a good option. I have a ton of output but, have the itch to add more and do a sub build. I can do the 115 db at 15-20 Hz and add the redirected stuff for the 121 db. The Kits are cheap at $350 for the driver and box. The diver alone is $279. Metro, I am a master at integrating different subs, so the possibility of adding a 21 or 24 is a minor concern. I had to learn PEQ, low shelf, high shelf, all this without the benefit of Omnimic or REW and did the graphs by hand over the last several years. Yes, very tedious. Edited April 13, 2015 by derrickdj1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 Well hopefully soon, I will start my first subwoofer build. I will do a couple of Dayton Ultimax build and see if I have any building skills. I did make a few napkin holders in woodshop in grade school. I will get things ordered in the AM to make sure I get everything at once to save on shipping cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) Is this the sealed kit you are ordering, Dayton Audio 15 Ultimax sealed w/flat pack? http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-15-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7097 I just picked up the lessor version of that, the Dayton Audio Reference 15 sealed w/flat pack My point is, I have just done a ton of research on both those kits, and the kit you want is very highly rated. Even if the Ultimax was the only pair of subs you had, the output would be overwhelming. Do need the flat pack (which I love) or can you build your own boxes? If it's variety you are looking for and you can build, you have a lot of other options. And like Scooby Doo said, I'm not telling you anything you don't already know. I think you just want to build something because you want to build something. I think many of us know how you feel. +++ Edit: Have you looked at any of the DIY Soundgroup sub kits? DIYSG sells at no-profit and the kits are incredibly well designed and provide the best bang-for-the-buck I have seen in this hobby. Be sure and take a look in the Ported Sub section at the 18" Stonehenge sub. It looks pretty cool, and there is already a recent build thread here on that. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ Edited April 15, 2015 by wvu80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 (edited) Well hopefully soon, I will start my first subwoofer build. I will do a couple of Dayton Ultimax build and see if I have any building skills. Where did your others come from? Hardest part is figuring out the sizes of all the panels if you do it by hand, kinda have to visualize the whole thing in your head. I'm sure there's software that helps with that though. If you were talking about a flat pack, those are stupid easy, no woodworking skill necessary. You could probably build the whole thing with a piece of rope and a bottle of glue if you had to. Edited April 15, 2015 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 You could probably build the whole thing with a piece of rope and a bottle of glue if you had to. RF-7-II's are built with clear box tape. It was the coolest thing I've ever seen as far as building cabinets is concerned and they were FAST. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 RF-7-II's are built with clear box tape. It was the coolest thing I've ever seen as far as building cabinets is concerned and they were FAST. I've seen other companies build boxes the way your described. Pretty amazing... As long as the cuts are correct, that would be so much easier. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 Is this the sealed kit you are ordering, Dayton Audio 15 Ultimax sealed w/flat pack? http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-15-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-package--300-7097 I just picked up the lessor version of that, the Dayton Audio Reference 15 sealed w/flat pack My point is, I have just done a ton of research on both those kits, and the kit you want is very highly rated. Even if the Ultimax was the only pair of subs you had, the output would be overwhelming. Do need the flat pack (which I love) or can you build your own boxes? If it's variety you are looking for and you can build, you have a lot of other options. And like Scooby Doo said, I'm not telling you anything you don't already know. I think you just want to build something because you want to build something. I think many of us know how you feel. +++ Edit: Have you looked at any of the DIY Soundgroup sub kits? DIYSG sells at no-profit and the kits are incredibly well designed and provide the best bang-for-the-buck I have seen in this hobby. Be sure and take a look in the Ported Sub section at the 18" Stonehenge sub. It looks pretty cool, and there is already a recent build thread here on that. http://www.diysoundgroup.com/ I order the kit 300-7099 for the 18 in., DVC Ultimax (2). This should complete my goal of ULF with a boom, lol. RF-7-II's are built with clear box tape. It was the coolest thing I've ever seen as far as building cabinets is concerned and they were FAST. I wonder if box tape would work for a sub? Gorilla glue was recommended by parts express. I am also curious if there is anything else other than Duratex paint to finish the boxes. They are made of MDF. Terminal cups Neutrik 4 pole connectors 1/4 RCA adaptors screw with T-nuts The clamps, plyofil, jigsaw, glue and paint I can get at Harbor freight and Homedepot. This is more of a project that I want to do than really need, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I am also curious if there is anything else other than Duratex paint to finish the boxes. They are made of MDF. Primer and black satin latex looks great on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean5340 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I am also curious if there is anything else other than Duratex paint to finish the boxes. They are made of MDF. Primer and black satin latex looks great on them. +1 on this. Fill all cracks and low spots with wood putty then sand smooth. Makes for a seemless finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 15, 2015 Author Share Posted April 15, 2015 T Primer and black satin latex looks great on them. That would look nicer. I will check that out. I already have a perfect corner to put the sub in for nice placement and maximal output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I am also curious if there is anything else other than Duratex paint to finish the boxes. They are made of MDF. Primer and black satin latex looks great on them. Just stay away from matte or flat, I don't like how mine turned out. Needs a little more sheen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 Flat collects dust and can't easily be wiped off. Use a long nap roller for a light texture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.