Plumbing Help - Recirc Pump

[CECAA850]

1 minute ago, babadono said:

Roger. Assuming the water is on.

 

Then yes.

[CECAA850]

3 hours ago, babadono said:

does it matter what side of the pump the check valve is on?

 

52 minutes ago, babadono said:

MY PUMP DOES NOT TOLERATE BEING RUN DRY.

Put it downstream of the pump and it won't run dry.

[babadono]

16 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

This is what he has.

 

With a couple valves thrown in That little symbol to the left of the pump is the "check valve"? His is on the other side of the pump, does it matter?

[JL Sargent]

Sometimes you can free up a little check valve like that by tapping on the valve body with a small hammer while applying water pressure in the normal flowing direction. Ball valve would have to be opened first though.

 

[babadono]

5 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

 

Put it downstream of the pump and it won't run dry.

Put the check valve down stream of the pump? Mine is and I assure you if I don't bleed the recirc. lines after they get air in them for whatever reason the pump will suck air.

[CECAA850]

1 minute ago, babadono said:

Put the check valve down stream of the pump? Mine is and I assure you if I don't bleed the recirc. lines after they get air in them for whatever reason the pump will suck air.

Yes, once the system has been opened it will have air.  I was referring to what might happen if the valve quit letting water by.  If it's downstream and there's pressure on it then there should always be water in the pump housing.

[CECAA850]

14 minutes ago, babadono said:

His is on the other side of the pump, does it matter?

It really shouldn't other than in my scenario above.

[tigerwoodKhorns]

16 hours ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

I

 

 

 

Ok, I understand that a check valve is a one way valve.  If you look at the photo, if I open the green 1/4 turn valve at the wall (the return line), water should run through the check valve and come out of the red pump flange, correct? 

 

If I open the 1/4 turn green valve, water only trickles out.  The yellow lets full pressure from the tank, but there is no obstruction. I tried tapping the check valve with a big screwdriver and it id not free up.  

 

Last item, the green gate value (hose spigot) should be to drain the return line in the wall.  The tank still have another gate valve to drain it (an dI drain it every year). 

 

 

 

 

 

[babadono]

4 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

 

Ok, I understand that a check valve is a one way valve.  If you look at the photo, if I open the green 1/4 turn valve at the wall (the return line), water should run through the check valve and come out of the red pump flange, correct? Yes

 

If I open the 1/4 turn green valve, water only trickles out.  The yellow lets full pressure from the tank, but there is no obstruction. I tried tapping the check valve with a big screwdriver and it id not free up.  

 

Last item, the green gate value (hose spigot) should be to drain the return line in the wall.  The tank still have another gate valve to drain it (an dI drain it every year). 

 

 

 

 

 

I vote the check valve is darn near sealed closed or installed backwards.

[tigerwoodKhorns]

Looks like I will need to replace it.  Of course the "professional" did not install any couples so I need to sweat it off and redo this properly. 

 

Quick question, should I relocate the check valve after the pump?  The pump is not supposed to run dry. 

[CECAA850]

Just now, tigerwoodKhorns said:

Quick question, should I relocate the check valve after the pump?  The pump is not supposed to run dry. 

If you're going to have the system down anyways then I'd put it downstream of the pump yes.

[CECAA850]

If the valve is indeed stuck then there will be water trapped between the shut off valve at the wall and the check valve.  You'll never sweat it apart unless you get that water out.  You'll need to cut it apart or drill a hole in the valve or pipe top let the water out then you'll be able to melt the solder.

[tigerwoodKhorns]

2 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

If the valve is indeed stuck then there will be water trapped between the shut off valve at the wall and the check valve.  You'll never sweat it apart unless you get that water out.  You'll need to cut it apart or drill a hole in the valve or pipe top let the water out then you'll be able to melt the solder.

 

Good point. 

[babadono]

Yep, take a sawzall to the brass body of the check valve. When I saw the plumber do that to mine I said to myself WTF? But then I asked him and he explained just what Carl just said

6 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

If the valve is indeed stuck then there will be water trapped between the shut off valve at the wall and the check valve.  You'll never sweat it apart unless you get that water out.  You'll need to cut it apart or drill a hole in the valve or pipe top let the water out then you'll be able to melt the solder.

 

[tigerwoodKhorns]

I remember sweating fittings for the water softener.  They are 1" fittings and I could only remove as much water as would be sucked up by a rag pushed into the pipe.  That took some effort to sweat the pieces together.  

[CECAA850]

And don't go crazy with the solder either.  More doesn't mean better.  You don't want to solder the flapper closed in your new valve

[USNRET]

White bread stuffed in pipe to stop dripping then solder. Pressure will dissolve later.

[CECAA850]

2 minutes ago, USNRET said:

White bread stuffed in pipe to stop dripping then solder. Pressure will dissolve later.

That's an old one.  I used to have to do that at times sweating lavatory or kitchen stops on.  It really works when the line you're working on won't stop dripping.  You just have to let the water soften the bread up prior to opening the valve. 

[tigerwoodKhorns]

A friend of mine gave me an old tool that will sweat pipes without fire.  All electric.  Looks nice if you do not want to set your studs on fire. 

[JJkizak]

If your system worked 10 years ago then replace the check valve. Straight from Mr. Spock. The calcium will cake up even on plastic pipe.

JJK