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Psst, hey wood working guys...


Coytee

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I'm looking for a solid brass stop hinge that will go FLAT on a box and open to the stopping point.

 

This one is "backwards" as best I can tell since it's in the open position and when it closes, it would lay FOLDED.  I'm looking for one that lays flat while UNFOLDED and when you open lid, it then looks like this one.

 

Of course, I may misunderstand the direction this one moves.

 

https://www.journal-news.com/news/what-makes-hamilton-tap-water-world-best-tasting/zHOU8dENIJYfMeb3vNiXjO/

 

Thoughts?

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Coytee said:

I'm looking for a solid brass stop hinge that will go FLAT on a box and open to the stopping point.

 

This one is "backwards" as best I can tell since it's in the open position and when it closes, it would lay FOLDED.  I'm looking for one that lays flat while UNFOLDED and when you open lid, it then looks like this one.

 

Of course, I may misunderstand the direction this one moves.

 

https://www.journal-news.com/news/what-makes-hamilton-tap-water-world-best-tasting/zHOU8dENIJYfMeb3vNiXjO/

 

Thoughts?

 

 

That's a link to an article on water.  Thoughts?  Confused.

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The hinge is going on TOP of a box.  One panel, let's call it 2" will be fixed to the box and the rest of the lid will be hinged.

 

The wood is Ebony so I want a nice hinge with some contrast.

 

This goes back to a box thread I started where I'm making a box for my two nieces using Zebra for the sides and Ebony for the base.  I was originally going to use Birdseye Maple for the top but the (artistic) wife told (the NON-artistic) me that "it didn't work".  I'm better off visually using the Ebony for the top AND bottom.

 

So I've got one box glued and drying right now.  Probably assemble second one tomorrow then work on mounting the base and fixed top panel.

 

I thought of a piano hinge but just didn't like it.

 

 

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Yep Mike, we found the same place.

 

The only one that looks like it does what I want is the one I linked however, I THINK it folds the wrong way.  It folds "doubled over" when the lid is in the closed position and goes to 90 degrees when the lid is open.

 

I'm looking for one that lays flat, 180 degrees when the lid is closed, then goes to 90 when open.

 

Does that make sense?

 

The one they show might be considered an "inside' hinge and i'm looking for an outside.

 

 

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Here's the last (and first) one I made.  These will be similar.  The hinge on this box had no "stop" features, they just folded all the way back so I needed to get a chain to mount inside the box to limit their range of motion.

 

Though it worked, if the chain were to break, it would allow the top to go all the way back and put more pressure on the screws holding everything together.  So I'm trying to find a stop hinge that will do what these do when flat, and open 90 degrees AND be solid brass.

 

 

 

 

2.jpg.818990db313ebb995d022116ce2e95b6.jpgHere's

 

 

 

 

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Carl:  Box is already cut.  I personally kind of like the exposed hing.....however, will admit that no forethought was put into that specific part...  so in a sense, I'm in "whoops" territory where I have to figure it out and make something work.

 

Bruce:  I've seen that one....  my lid is "around" 3/8" thick so I don't think that would work.  I was originally going to use 3/4" Maple but the wife thought it would be a nicer looking box with Ebony on both top and bottom....  which necessitated that I rip their thickness and now I'm left with a thin top so an inset won't work.

 

I might just have to go back to how I did the first one and forget a stop-hinge and just put a chain on it to limit the lids movement.  I just don't want to (as in I really don't want to)  It's one of those that I could put a chain on it along with a $4.00 hinge and be done......or be stubborn (like I am) and find a hinge that does exactly what I want but it's $50 for a pair (and I need two pair).  I'd rather pay the $50 so I can get it like I want.  I really want to avoid the chain.

 

I also really want it to be solid brass.  I don't want to go through all this and put something plated on there and in 5 years, it's worn off, looking like crap.

 

 

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4 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Or?

 

I'm not sure but I think when those close, they close upon themselves.  Meaning, when they are in the closed position, they are (for example) 1/2" wide and when they are open, they are like shown.  That won't work for me.

 

I need them to be 180 degrees (flat, for example a full one inch wide, not 1/2 inch) when closed and then 90 degrees when open.

 

Then again....  maybe I'm just not 'seeing' them correctly.

 

 

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6 hours ago, Coytee said:

Bruce:  I've seen that one....  my lid is "around" 3/8" thick so I don't think that would work.  I was originally going to use 3/4" Maple but the wife thought it would be a nicer looking box with Ebony on both top and bottom....  which necessitated that I rip their thickness and now I'm left with a thin top so an inset won't work.

 

Could you use Marvel's idea, but as a surface mounted hinge, or is 3/8" too thin for screws?

 

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Sorry about "intruding" on this thread ... but thought some "wood workers" might be present :D  Just got a "pristine" Marantz 1060 :D  Looking for a wood case ... and really don't think it "costs" close to $200 plus $50 shipping (FleaBay) to make one :( ... Anyone??

Thanks, Emile

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