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Help with Heresy 1 1975 binding posts

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On 1/11/2019 at 9:58 AM, Ohiopatriot said:

John A did you make that custom binding post?? Where can I find 2 of those??? Very nice!!


Sorry, OHP, I just found your question.  Yes, I made them, I did not want to modify those particular Heresies.  I put terminal cups into the back of my Center and rear channel Heresies.

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This thread has helped me as well.   Picked a nice pair of Heresy's circa 1970.  Been struggling to find a way to connect the speaker wire to it that held strong and looked decent.   I'll try some of the crimp on spades.  May 21, 2020.  Thanks everyone!

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Maybe this has been answered, but I haven't found a good answer.  I'm the original owner to a pair of Heresy 1 speakers, vintage 1975 birch unfinished, that I bought while in college.  I love these speakers.  I'm no audiophile, but I like them and wouldn't trade them for anything.
I've always had trouble getting a good connection to those small screws on the binding posts (see pic attached).  Can you recommend the best action?  Is there a preferred method of connecting bare wires to these posts that I'm missing?  Is there something I can do without drilling holes in the speakers...that fits the existing tread size.  Am I just all wet and need to replace the posts?  If so and with minimum changes, what should I do.
I need to change the caps, so I guess I'll use Crites kit unless someone says that's stupid.
Should I replace the tweeter or midrange diaphragms?
Thanks for your patience and help.

I have ‘78 Heresys and have always used just bare wire under the screws. Twist the wire so you have a tight straight end. Wrap the wire around the screw clockwise. As you tighten the screw it will pull the wire under it. If you wrap it counter clockwise it will push the wire out from under the screw. I bought these speakers new in ‘78 and I’ve never had a problem with bad connections. I could use spade ends but if it works, don’t fix it.

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The terminals on older Klipsch Heritage speakers are not binding posts, they are barrier strips.  Using your photo (attached for ready reference), the expedient connections are made to the screws (upper) not the bare threads (lower).  You have gotten some good advice from @Peter P.,  @Dean-g, and others, some of which I will repeat.


It shouldn’t need repeating, but all of the following is my opinion.  You are free to disagree and reject it all.


At a minimum, twist stranded wire and “tin” (solder) it before attaching it to any terminal, whether at a speaker or an amp.  Without tinning, a stray strand can cause an unwanted connection, which can be especially problematic at an amp.  


A tinned lead can—should—be formed into a hook to wrap around the terminal screw, at which point I would tin the hook again to sweat fresh solder into the strands and to repair cracks in the solder created when twisting the tinned lead into a hook.


The tinned hook should go under the screw with the wire to the left of the terminal screw and the hook going over the top of the screw clockwise.  That way, as the terminal screw is turned clockwise to tighten, the hook is pulled against the terminal screw.  If connected backwards, tightening the screw can push the hook away from the terminal screw, causing a less robust connection.


If all of the foregoing sounds like a PITA, it is.  I recommend it only if you plan to connect the speaker wires and leave them connected for years.  Alternatively, it is a suitable temporary connection until you get suitable spade connectors recommended by others earlier.  Even though running out to Radio Shack on a Sunday to get proper connectors is no longer possible, most hardware stores or box stores (Lowe’s, Home Depot, Menard’s, etc.) sell them.   When using the proper sized spade connectors, I always tin the lead before inserting it into the connector and crimping it properly with the proper crimping tool.  After crimping it, I still heat the connection to allow solder to flow into the mechanical connection caused by crimping; I know, suspenders and a belt.


If all the crimping sounds like a PITA, that’s because it is, but taking short cuts will eventually cause an even greater PITA.  You mention not wanting to drill holes.  A Binding post (my least favorite connector) can be inserted into one of the four holes left after removing the barrier strip.  A hole will need to be drilled for the second binding post, as using one of the three remaining holes would put the binding posts too close together.  The unused holes would need to be filled.


If you envision needing to disconnect and reconnect the speakers frequently and regularly, only then do you need something more complicated than a tinned wire formed into a hook.  Although I despise binding posts and banana plugs, they have their place and are favored by most.  All stranded wires connected to binding posts or banana plugs should be twisted and tinned. NEVER connect bare stranded wire to a connector, speaker, or amp without twisting and tinning.


In lieu of banana plugs and binding posts, I prefer Neutrik SpeakOn connectors, like those used by essentially 100% of bands to quickly and securely connect, or disconnect, their equipment.  After inserting tinned leads into the proper receptacle of a Neutrik  connector and tightening the set screws, you will have a polarized connection that can be quickly connected blindly using one hand.  When it clicks and locks into place it will stay properly connected until you use one hand to unlock it and disconnect.  You can’t do that with any other connector.  It does require drilling new holes and filling old holes, but if you need to disconnect and reconnect more frequently than every decade, it is worth the trouble and expense.  A final benefit is meeting your responsibility to purchase products from Liechtenstein.


The large round connector is my preferred speaker terminal.  The amp shown has smaller square connectors, due to not enough space for the round connectors.  The SpeakOn plugs are the same for either connector.  The cables connecting that class-D “Wiener” TPA3118 chip amp to the speakers can be quickly disconnected at the amp and the speakers and just as quickly reconnected.  The cables can be switched side to side or end to end without compromising secure polarized connections.














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