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Crossover A Klipschorn cap replacement help


Aoran994

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1 hour ago, Aoran994 said:

I've added to the cart 2 6.8 uF, 2 1uF, 2 4.7uF, 2 1.5uf

Am i missing something for the AA CROSSOVER? Thanks man this way is way way cheaper 

To reach the value of 13 uF for both channels you are right to order 2x 6.8 uF ,2x 4.7 uF and 2x 1.5 uF.

 

If you want the tweeter caps for the AA networrk (I thought you have the A network) you need for every channel 2x 2 uF. That means to order 8x 1.0 uF in total for both channels because exactly 2 uF you get only from JEM.

 

A note, if you order more than 50€ at Mouser, you have free shipping, at least to Germany. Less than 50€ means 20€ shipping in addition. Perhaps you need two coils if you want to make the AA network?

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5 hours ago, KT88 said:

To reach the value of 13 uF for both channels you are right to order 2x 6.8 uF ,2x 4.7 uF and 2x 1.5 uF.

 

If you want the tweeter caps for the AA networrk (I thought you have the A network) you need for every channel 2x 2 uF. That means to order 8x 1.0 uF in total for both channels because exactly 2 uF you get only from JEM.

 

A note, if you order more than 50€ at Mouser, you have free shipping, at least to Germany. Less than 50€ means 20€ shipping in addition. Perhaps you need two coils if you want to make the AA network?

Yes i was seeing that i get free shipping for 50 euro, i have the original A , i could go for it, or make the AA  do i need only  caps? Thank you , i was asking this because it cost me the same, because I don't reach the free shipping with the A crossover as they need less components 

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@Deang has already answered your question, I would do the same and I am glad that Dean just told you which coil to use. Are you familiar with a soldering iron and can you read such a simple circuit? Then it should be no problem at all…or you know a buddy who can do it for you.

 

If Jantzen inductors are not on offer of Mouser, you could find an inductor from another brand perhaps because I know you will complete the money needed for free shipping. I think, Dean gave you all the parameters you must know. Later on you could go again through this thread, I remember someone posted the AA circuit…

 

And to confirm what Dean says, to build the AA type crossover, beside the additional coils (one per speaker) you need two additional 2uF capacitors in total, one for each speaker. And as I posted before then you have two caps with 2 uF each for the tweeter in each loudspeaker. As you may order 1 uF types to reach exactly 2 uF in sum you have to order in total for both speakers eight capacitors with 1 uF each. Then you run always two of the 1 uF caps in parallel to make them a 2 uF capacitor.

 

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16 hours ago, Aoran994 said:

Yes i was seeing that i get free shipping for 50 euro, i have the original A , i could go for it, or make the AA  do i need only  caps? Thank you , i was asking this because it cost me the same, because I don't reach the free shipping with the A crossover as they need less components 

Stick with the A   ,cause   apart from  +capacitors /inductors , you'll need 2 zener diodes and a metal bracket for the AA 's tweeter protection circuit  ,  it's optional as you can remove it  .but the original design did have it 

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2 hours ago, OO1 said:

Stick with the A   ,cause   apart from  +capacitors /inductors , you'll need 2 zener diodes and a metal bracket for the AA 's tweeter protection circuit  ,  it's optional as you can remove it  .but the original design did have it 

 

Randy, I like your post and you are certainly a Klipsch Forum veteran.
But sorry, with your last post you only contribute to the uncertainty of the topic opener @Aoran994
1) In my view, and I know both xovers, a type AA is in most cases the better xover, both in terms of tweeter protection and better sound. Every push pull amp, and that are most, the AA draws the better music.
2) We have had long discussions here in the forum with listening impressions and measurement protocols that these protective diodes not only protect but can significantly spoil the sound. Since you are one of the most active people on the forum (which is a good thing), it should not have escaped your attention. And everyone in the know says that even at higher volumes, nothing bad has to happen with the tweeter even when not using the diodes. The funny thing is that the protection diodes would have been even more urgent with the type A xover, but they didn't even exist then.

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At the time of the A's tweeter protection was not needed being that electronic music had not become the norm. Any sensible user would hurt their hearing before hurting the tweeter. There is a large group of designers, geeks of audio gear that consider less is better when it comes to parts. I am in that camp. Whether I could tell if an A or AA sounds better is doubtful at 73 years of age but I would favor the A crossover as sounding better with someone with trained ears. Just as many on this forum claim better sound by emitting the zener's they should also hear a difference between an A and a AA with a few less parts. The only reason the AA came into being is to protect those delicate tweeters and not because of sounding better. I am almost positive of that. The problem came with LaScala's being used as professional gear in club settings with electronic music. The A is a 1st order network on the tweeter whereas the AA is a 3rd order cutting off the mid frequency, which is the killer of the tweeter, quicker with it's sharper cutoff point at 6Khz. 

 

Perhaps someone with good hearing and soldering skills can play with their AA's making them A's, easy to do, and doing some listening test of their own and posting their thoughts much as with the diodes. Probably so close it really does not matter but at least it would give us some to talk about since crossovers are a main topic on a speaker forum. 

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In 2009 I got an xover from a third party supplier that I could easily switch from type A to type AA and vice versa with two contacts. I have already described what sounds better to me. My guess is that the lower overlap of the AA crossover improves the intelligibility of speech and sounds.

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4 hours ago, henry4841 said:

 . The only reason the AA came into being is to protect those delicate tweeters and not because of sounding better. 

 

I think so too , an A or AA are 2 great networks , however if one is  using a khorn  -Lascala - Belle for   loud sound    where the tweeter is more fragile , then I would favor  the AA  ,  but for home use , Jazz , Classical , and  60's sound ,  the A   has the open ,  iconic klipsch sound .

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26 minutes ago, geoff. said:

I’m still boggled by the fact that in all of Europe there is not a more comprehensive selection of polyester capacitors available. 
 

No 2uF or 12uF?

 

That’s discrimination. The UN should be all over THIS.
 

 

 

 

 

I really think, that this JEM capacitors are especially made for 2uF and 13uF. Even my order of conventional values was shipped from Texas.

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15 hours ago, KT88 said:

@Deang has already answered your question, I would do the same and I am glad that Dean just told you which coil to use. Are you familiar with a soldering iron and can you read such a simple circuit? Then it should be no problem at all…or you know a buddy who can do it for you.

 

If Jantzen inductors are not on offer of Mouser, you could find an inductor from another brand perhaps because I know you will complete the money needed for free shipping. I think, Dean gave you all the parameters you must know. Later on you could go again through this thread, I remember someone posted the AA circuit…

 

And to confirm what Dean says, to build the AA type crossover, beside the additional coils (one per speaker) you need two additional 2uF capacitors in total, one for each speaker. And as I posted before then you have two caps with 2 uF each for the tweeter in each loudspeaker. As you may order 1 uF types to reach exactly 2 uF in sum you have to order in total for both speakers eight capacitors with 1 uF each. Then you run always two of the 1 uF caps in parallel to make them a 2 uF capacitor.

 

Thank you very much for all your suggestions, i have decided to do the AA crossover, as for making it i will try to get some help from a friend, i still can't find the inductor that dean said i have to to get

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@Aoran994, I don’t think you will find a .245mH.

 

You should be able to get a .24 though. The above mentioned vendor has that value too. Maybe see what the total is from them, after shipping and VAT?
 

I recall reading within 10% is an acceptable variance on part values, but I do not know it for a fact. 
 

Are any more-knowledgeable readers able to comment on how a lower value inductor will affect the crossover point? 

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