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Khorn subs "bottoming out" ?


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Hello people, I have come to the realization that I may have a bad woofer or hopefully some one out there can tell me what I am over looking. It sounds as if one and only one of the drivers are bottoming out or sounds blown, I have yanked it ot and examined it with a magnifing glass and cannot find a flaw with them. Phil Collins In the Air Tonight where he satrts with the drums it just doesnt sound right to me.

Here is another part that confuses me, it only does it when I really start to get on it and I know where I have to stop so I do not get the weird sound from the driver.

I have switched the speaker wire and it is not the equipment as some may think, it is the speaker.

Please help!!!!!!!!!

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Firstly, Khorns don't have subs, that is a woofer! Are these Khorns wedged nice and tightly in a corner? Do you have the tailboard edge seals in place? Any air leakage would cause the woofer to over extend and make odd noises on bass heavy passages. What amplifier are you using? How are the tone controls set? It is possible that the woofer is going after all it is 40 years old. If you have all of the aforementioned items inline you may have have a woofer that is in needed of reconing. I would recommend reconing since you will maintain the original integrity of the speaker rather than replacing it with a new/refurbed K-33E from Klipsch. In addition, I would have both woofers done at the same time since the reconed driver will be tighter than the other 40 year old one.

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Yes they are in the corner tight and the seals that you are referring to I have no idea if they are tight because honestly I dont know what the hell they are.

My tones on the reciever ar set at zero, except the balance.

I am running an NAD 218thx 225 watts in stereo nothing special, just enough, i think.

I am also running an ADC EQ, if that helps, not a lot of bass more highs than anything.

And yes I think it maybe time to get them reconed, it was suggested by Steve from Klipsch, so where does one go for that as well?

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The tailboard seals are a foam rubber or rubber pieces that slip over the two edges on the rear tailboard of the speaker (very back 1/2" board that runs from top to bottom on the bass section). They look similar to the ones used to seal the areas around car doors.

A good place to have speakers reconed is Simply Speakers in Florida they have done good work for me in the past. There is a guy that Klipsch sends these types up requests too but I forget his name. I am sure there are many more places that offer reconing, but Simply Speakers has lots of experience. They have a website as well. At a guess I would say about $65 a speaker to get them totally rebuilt to original specs.

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Should you be able to see this seal when I pull them out from the wall or is it in between two pieces of wood? I have no rubber exposed on the outside back of the speaker that I can recall right now. ( I am at work)

I will also check into reconing them as well.

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The tail board gasket should be in place though to help in the overall sound of the bass. Who knows it might take care of his problem. The Klipschorn isn't installed correctly unless the tailboard gaskets are installed and the horn snug in the corner.

Plus pumping 225 watts into the Khorns is really pushing it. Max continous is 100 watts.

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"The tail board gasket should be in place though to help in the overall sound of the bass. Who knows it might take care of his problem. The Klipschorn isn't installed correctly unless the tailboard gaskets are installed and the horn snug in the corner."

And what does this have to do with the price of tea in China?

You're wasting everbodies time with the tail-board garket, it's a red herring.

"Plus pumping 225 watts into the Khorns is really pushing it. Max continous is 100 watts."

I've run over 1KW on music into Klipschorns before, they have no problems with it.

Go read the Klipsch spec sheet Gil posted on the LaScala, it says that the speaker can handle 10X the nominal power on transients.

He either has an air leak in the compression chamber behind the woofer, a puked woofer, or is feeding program material below 30hz into the speaker at a very high level, or is clipping the living daylites out of his amplifier.

If they were my Klipschorns I would buy a new pair of K33E and be done with it. I would also use a 30hz high pass filter.

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Acouple of things, first off I cannot see a tail board cover you all are talking about. I have no rubber seals on in or near the back of the Khorns. I have wood and screws and a metal mesh that runs from thtop to the bottom of the woofer section of my speakers. Two someone said they would buy the k33e and be done with it. What if you are trying to preserve the originality of them. I have the k 33 j and I was honestly just thinking of getting them reconed and buy a set of klf 30s or 20s for certain types of music Ilisten to and reserve the Horns for the generational music from the era they are from.

Any better description of the tailboard seal would be helpful and if anybody has a digital camera senda pic and I will shoot you a couple so you can see what I am seing and maybe missing.

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A couple of other things as well. I know I am not as smart as some of you but I am NOT overfeeding the speakers. If I am pushing more than fifty watts to them it would be a minor miracle. As far as the type of music, unless you guys consider Rush, The Who, Jethro Tull and al the other classics out there to be "too much" for the horns to handle I think you may be wrong. I have never over extended these speakers and never played rap or any other test cd to find out how low it can go. If they sound really good in the apartment and the neighbor is gone I may end up pushing twenty watts to them for the length of one cd.

Any other help is greatly appreciated.

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"The woofer access door gasket could be bad,,,thus letting woofer bottom out...just a thought,,,,,,rick"

Thanks for repeating what I said(He either has an air leak in the compression chamber behind the woofer), at least it makes sense.

"Acouple of things, first off I cannot see a tail board cover you all are talking about. I have no rubber seals on in or near the back of the Khorns"

They didn't come with them until the very late 70s, at the risk of repeating myself, this has NOTHING to do with your problem.

". What if you are trying to preserve the originality of them. I have the k 33 j and I was honestly just thinking of getting them reconed"

The new woofers sound better anyway. Do what Corvette nuts do. Put the OEM parts in the closet and let them collect dust. Or you could re-cone both drivers and use them.

"Follow the wires, make sure +and- are correct, if there backwards, the woofer cone would slam into the magnet, "

The woofer is fed AC, the cone moves both ways.

Worst case senario:

A cracked glue joint in the woofer compression chamber.

To check for this:

Remove woofer and block the throat with a board and gasket.

Replace woofer door with a new one with a barometer mounted to it(Klipsch tests all Klipschorns this way before final assembly).

You can make a simple barometer with some tubing and a column of water.

Or use a radiator pressure testor.

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I had another idea,,,,take the good woofer and put it in the other bass bin and see if it still makes the noise,,,,,if not,, put the bad woofer in the other bass bin...if it still makes the noise,,,,buy new woofers....most of us who buy k-horns not concerned about original woofers in them...but if you are just have it reconed.....could be something as simple as a wire hitting the inside of bass chamber or cone,,look at that to...think simple stuff first those woofers are tough and if they do go bad they go bad in a big way....rick

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I would get rid of that adc EQ first, maybe it is the culprit. Make sure the bass bin door is sealed good when you put back the woofer.

Did the speakers work fine before or did this bass problem just started to happen lately? It could be a bad woofer.

I would seal those k-horns to the walls you wont believe the better bass responce you will get. I had to do this to my 84 k-horns, they never came with the factory seals for some reason, and I bought them new.

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Wow... so many responses to a simple question. Just thought I'd throw a simple answer. From your description, I'd say probably blown... but you can test it:

1) ricktate had a good suggestion... flip the woofers around, the bottoming out should follow the bad driver

2) you can play music through them out of the cabinets, and it should distort with relatively low power. Again, compare the two drivers if you like

If blown... it's not a big deal, just get it reconed (I'd do the pair for symmetries sake).... these things happen with age, i wouldn't loose sleep over it. 2.gif

Rob

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Keep in mind that your drivers are quite old & Klipsch bought those drivers OEM, probably from CTS , EV or Stephens. It's unlikely that you're going to be able to have them reconed as original. Some kind of recone kit that's compatible will probably have to be substituted. I'd opt for getting new drivers for both speakers from Klipsch if this is the problem.

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On 8/3/2003 10:24:09 AM Jim Cornell wrote:

Follow the wires, make sure +and- are correct, if there backwards, the woofer cone would slam into the magnet Regards Jim
9.gif

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Why would this cause the woofer cone to slam into the magnet? Also, I think you meant 'voice coil' in-place-of 'cone'.

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On 8/3/2003 10:39:46 PM djk wrote:

"Follow the wires, make sure +and- are correct, if there backwards, the woofer cone would slam into the magnet, "

The woofer is fed AC, the cone moves both ways.

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Excuse me? AC? Both ways eh? Nice trick. I suppose that's why there labeled with a + and a -.

2.gif

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