formica Posted April 15, 2004 Share Posted April 15, 2004 I think fini is on the right track... first try to find out if it's coming from the wall or the floor... the inexpensive "volt tick" should work... Since it's a rental unit and you'd probably want to limit your expenses: If it's the wall... I'd go with a false corner with shielding (metal sheeting, grounded if you can) as it will probably get rid of the buzz and give you a proper corner (for better bass response). If it's the floor... similar idea... build a platform with some shielding in it. I'd build one for both speakers though, for symmetry... and while you're at it, I'd put a false corner on that end anyways. Let us know what you find... Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted April 15, 2004 Share Posted April 15, 2004 Wow! That must be the main feed for the building running through that conduit. Probably 440V. The conduit is most likely steel behind that plaster. I'd contact the building manager to see that the conduit is properly grounded. It seems to me that it is the landlord's problem to correct. I can only imagine what a TV would look like in that corner. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted April 15, 2004 Share Posted April 15, 2004 Can you gain access to the breaker box for the area in question? If so, you could systematically determine the circuit, if any that is causing the problem. Maybe then, you can narrow down who is running what electrical item that is causing the problem. I would try to figure out what the source is before trying to devise a solution. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hwatkins Posted April 15, 2004 Share Posted April 15, 2004 3dzapper has the first best option - to bleed that much is indicative of a larger problem that is the landlord's responsibility. I would go so far as to insinuate that the claim for damage for your speaker may well be greater than the cost to repair. Most folks describe the 60 cycle AC pattern as hum and it is most likely as most here say - power is somehow being carried in an ungrounded way. Most electrical code would keep a transformer far removed from an occupied space (at least far enough away to keep from affecting a place where power is supplied for individual use). If you have a reasonably sized piece of conducting metal and an easy way to ground it - you can test the hypothesis by moving the metal and/or speaker to see if there is any noticeable effect. If it is as most think, you should hear changes in the hum (maybe even a silence) that would confirm the issue. Fini's idea would get you to the most obvious place to test. Good luck - I traced a radio station coming in on my sub woofer for a good two weeks before being resolved, so I feel for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcb Posted May 3, 2004 Author Share Posted May 3, 2004 // Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted May 3, 2004 Share Posted May 3, 2004 In the thread on this subject under Technical Questions, a couple of folks thought the crossover coils could be picking up the EMI. Someone recommended that you move the network away from the speaker to see if that eliminates the hum. Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcb Posted May 3, 2004 Author Share Posted May 3, 2004 /./ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 On a 1991 Klipschorn part of the crossover network is in the bass cabinet. Move the crossover network. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 might try a ferrous panel attached to ground underneath the speaker. Big old slab of steel or iron with a big braid grounded on a water pipe or similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryC Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 ---------------- On 5/3/2004 11:05:52 PM tcb wrote: Like I said,the woofer capture the RFI waves.If is no connection(removed the cable) between top section and bottom section,the buzz goes off. ---------------- Someone more expert should chime in here -- does your crossover network sit in the top section? If so, and the woofer is capturing the the EMI (it's not RFI) waves, it should keep humming when you remove the wires. But, if the network is capturing the EMI waves, then it seems that removing the connection would eliminate the hum. Isn't that what happened here? Doesn't that mean that the network is the culprit? How did you move the network away from the speaker? Offhand (I've never done it), it seems to me you would have to unfasten the plywood block with the network and use added speaker wire to relocate it several feet away from the speaker, while the speaker stays in the corner. Anyone else? Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcb Posted May 4, 2004 Author Share Posted May 4, 2004 /// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcb Posted May 4, 2004 Author Share Posted May 4, 2004 /// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcb Posted May 4, 2004 Author Share Posted May 4, 2004 /// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
formica Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 ---------------- On 5/4/2004 7:35:03 AM tcb wrote: DJK are you sure???? ---------------- Unfortunately I don't have a link to a photo, but as far as I know the AK-3 and the AK-4 have half of their networks on the inside of the woofer door and the other half in the upper cabinet. djk is correct... and definitely not a newbee Rob PS: aren't you selling your khorns anyways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Man Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 Yes djk is right, the woofer choke is attached to the back of the woofer access panel door. The door is the square piece of plywood with about four to six screws on each of it's four sides holding it in place. Loosen all the screws and gently pry it off with a screw driver. Don't let it drop to the floor, the wires from the crossover to the woofer are short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSValves Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 I was thinking about this thread the other day and wondering if the problem was ever solved. I bet some type of metal plate slid under the speaker and attached to earth ground for the building would possibly fix the problem this may be done by using a clamp to the water pipe or if that doesn't work find the earth ground rod that will be driven into the ground usually near where the service enters the building . They sell clamps just for ground to plumbing at electrical supply stores. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcb Posted May 4, 2004 Author Share Posted May 4, 2004 /// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSValves Posted May 4, 2004 Share Posted May 4, 2004 I think any type of thin metal attached to ground would surely help aluminum would be something to try you could even use the type used by siding contractors and grind the paint off at the wire connection to ground(make sure the ground connection is absolute earth ground ! Even if this would not be optimum it would maybe give you a cheap way to see if it will even effect the problem. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy Bey Posted May 5, 2004 Share Posted May 5, 2004 golly, a grounded metal plate! Why didn't I think of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcb Posted May 5, 2004 Author Share Posted May 5, 2004 // Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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