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Incredible problem with K-horns


tcb

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I am not an expert in this and have no positive reply, but live in an apartment also, and just want to thank tcb for the interesting thread and hope you get the problem solved, and to everyone else for replying here, wow, thanks for the info, a definite learning day here!

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On 5/5/2004 9:45:32 PM tcb wrote:

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On 5/5/2004 9:28:42 PM T_Shomaker wrote:

You could just move
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Yes,you are right.I was asking my wife and her answer was:"OUT ALONE".I will be the only person who's gone move if I don't stop "crying" around that corner/speaker....
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And there isn't a lot of room for Khorns in the doghouse!2.gif

Rick

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On 5/6/2004 11:42:02 AM cablacksmith wrote:

I don't think an aluminium plate would help. It wouldn't be magnetic thus wouldn't stop magnetic flux. Try a sheet of steel (from the home improvement store) and make sure it was grounded. Just a thought.
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I agree with cablacksmith. Something subject to magnetism is required.

Each AC wall outlet has a ground. Try that or even connect to the outlet cover plate screw (the actual in-wall outlet box is grounded too, unless it happens to be plastic). Make sure that there is no paint on the screw that could prevent electrical contact... Additionally any plumbing drain pipes may be used for a true "ground" providing that they are uninterupted metal all the way down.

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On 5/7/2004 8:54:58 AM tcb wrote:

DJK, instead to be sarcastic,try to come down with a good idea smart guy....

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Ummm... he already did three days ago...

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On 5/4/2004 2:01:28 AM djk wrote:

On a 1991 Klipschorn part of the crossover network is in the bass cabinet. Move the crossover network.

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Did it not work?? It costs next to nothing, is easy to apply, and should be successful. What more do you need?

Rob

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Here's a link to the Power-Line Noise FAQ Page. They also point out some cooperative agreements between the American Radio Relay League (ARRL) and FCC here in the states. Perhaps Industry Canada has similar agreements and standards.

The information identified may prove worthwhile should you need the assistance of your local power company & housing manager to resolve the interference issues.

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On 5/7/2004 10:14:17 AM tcb wrote:

Rob, is not that easy...There is a door and binding posts for speaker cable.How in the hell to pass thru the door the whole crossover and sealed back???

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Mario,

Can you post pictures of the (1) outside of the woofer bin door and (2) inside of the woofer bin door including the bass-section crossover? It seems to me you may need step-by-step guidance on just where to attach and run wires. That may be easier to do if we have pictures to look at.

Larry

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You'd have to open her up to get a clear view of the wiring and x-over... You are giving up without trying as something like the following should work;

You remove the crossover from the inside of the door... you use the existing speaker connector as a woofer bypass (wire it directly to the woofer, NO NEW holes required). Then you wire the x-over directly to the amplifier... it's woofer output is wired to the speaker connector on the woofer door (that is now wired directly to the woofer). The HF output is then fed to the upper x-over... without going through the woofer door connector. If it works you tie-wrap everything up and you are on your way.

EMI is difficult to shield against as 60Hz is a relatively long wavelength and may just wrap around any shielding you put. Moving the x-over or building false corners are the simplest solutions for a rental appartment.

Rob

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Three weeks ago!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Revisions : 0 / Posted: 4/15/2004 10:59:59 PM / IP: Recorded

djk Posted: 4/17/2004 2:56:42 AM

djk

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The problem is EMI, not RFI.

If he lives in a hi-rise there could be 5,000A in the conduit behind his wall. The coils in the network act as a secondary on a transformer.

Move the network away from the speaker and tri-wire it.

I would use NEUTRIK SPEAKON 8 POLE connectors to make it easy to wire.

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Here are my 2cents:

The moving of the crossover is a good idea.

However, if shielding is desired, then aluminum foil will work, use it flat against the suspected conduit area AND you must adequately GROUND it in order for it to shield anything. The idea is to intercept the EMI/RFI and shunt the resulting current to ground.

DM

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"However, if shielding is desired, then aluminum foil will work, use it flat against the suspected conduit area AND you must adequately GROUND it in order for it to shield anything. The idea is to intercept the EMI/RFI and shunt the resulting current to ground."

Won't work at 60hz.

60-Hz Magnetic Shielding Fundamentals

There are two basic types of 60-Hz magnetic shields: flux-entrapment shields and lossy shields.

A heavy aluminum strap that goes completely around the EMI source will work. It does NOT need to be grounded. This works by converting the EMI to an eddy current and shorting it to itself, the stray magnetic energy is converted into heat.

Magnetic Shielding Theory

Magnetic shielding strategies that rely on the interactions between magnetic fields and special high permeability materials are called Passive Shielding Strategies. In order to understand how passive shields operate, the following terms and parameters must be defined

Frequency

The frequency of a magnetic field, measured in cycles per second (Hz), is the same as the operating frequency of the field's source. For example, a 60Hz power line will create a 60Hz magnetic field. Knowing the frequency of a magnetic field is important in determining the proper composition and thickness of material to be used in a given shield design.

What blocks magnetic fields?

There is no known material that blocks magnetic fields without itself being attracted to the magnetic force. Magnetic fields can only be redirected, not created or removed. To do this, high-permeability shielding alloys are used. The magnetic field lines are strongly attracted into the shielding material.

What is the difference between RF and Magnetic shielding?

Radio frequency (or RF) shielding is required when it is necessary to block high frequency - 100 kilohertz and above - interference fields. These shields typically use copper, aluminum, galvanized steel, or conductive rubber, plastic or paints. These materials work at high frequencies by means of their high conductivity, and little or no magnetic permeability. Magnetic shields use their high permeability to attract magnetic fields and divert the magnetic energy through themselves. With proper construction, magnetic shielding alloys have the ability to function as broadband shields, shielding both rf and magnetic interference fields.

How does magnetic shielding work?

All shielding materials work by diverting the magnetic flux to themselves, so although the field from a magnet will be greatly reduced by a shield plate, the shield plate will itself be attracted to the magnet. Closed shapes are the most efficient for magnetic shielding - cylinders with caps, boxes with covers, and similar shapes are the most effective. Magnetic shielding materials offer a very high permeability path for magnetic field lines, directing the electromagnetic energy through the thickness of the alloy, and keeping the electromagnetic field from going where it is not wanted. It is important that the shield offers a complete path for the field lines, so that they do not exit the material in a place where they will cause unintended interference.

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