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New old speakers... (Heresy)


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X is 1982. One of the best years for the HI. HDRBuilder was there then, too.

Look on the rear edges in the ply of the wood for stamped letters. They are the employee codes for all of the people that worked on your Heresies.

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Thanks John... I've found it and it says DK, you know who is he / Who they are?

It also says USA, but something inside me says that that should be the country where they have been made 3.gif

If not, correct me please.

Is there any review or something like that on the specific components my speakers have, comparing them with another Heresies?

And what would "HDRBuilder" would be? I'm sorry!

Cya!

DiEGO

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Diego,

On the labels it will tell you the model type, too...it will say something like HWO, or HBR, or something like that. Let us know what that part says, then we can help you some more on finding out about them. If I remember correctly DK was a two man team we had for a short time bulding mitered cabinets...can't remember last names, but I think it was David and Kenneth who built your speaker cabinets.

By 1982, there was so much employee turnover at the plant that I had pretty much given up on remembering everybody's names who only remained working there for just a few months. Although mitered cabinets are technically more difficult to fabricate parts for, the assembly of them was a no-brainer since there was a pneumatic clamping machine that was used to assemble them by then. Therefore, it was not uncommon to see relatively new employees given the job as a builder for them. Things were a bit more complicated when we just used corner clamps and chains with binders to assemble up Heresys. Even on days I took off, there were seldom any other folks put on the job of building birch Heresys or any of the Cornwalls, because I was normally so far ahead of the sanding room that it was unnecessary to have anybody take over in my absence building these for the day or so I may have taken off...but it OCCASSIONALLY happened.

The summer of 1982 or 1983 was the only time I took off work for more than a day or two the whole time I worked there...that summer I was off for over a week, so somebody else may have built some birch Heresys then, but other folks building Cornwalls occured much more often. But even that generally only happened when I was too busy building Heresys SOLO during the fall rush to keep up with the Cornwall production, too! It was more cost effective to have me build Heresys solo while a team built those Cornwalls in those instances, since I was so fast at building birch Heresys solo.

Look at it this way, there was never anybody who could really keep up with me at full speed as a helper on Heresys, so the total built in a day using a two-man operation never exceeded twice the total I COULD build solo in a day...because in the team situation, I would have to stop at some point a few times a day and help my helper catch-up on his/her end of things. I remember that after one particularly long night trying to get a Cobol program to run at my night college courses in Texarkana (night programming courses where you have to wait til after 10 PM to have mainframe time to run a punch-card program to check its validity can make for a long nite running back and forth between the printer and the card-sorter and the key-punch to get things right!...anybody here remember key-punch??)...when I got no sleep at all between getting home and getting to work...I actually was falling asleep all day long. My helper would nudge me on occasion to wake me up and tell me he needed me to help him catch-up. I was actually building Heresys the whole time while standing there asleep! True Story! It really freaked him out because I was SNORING the whole time, too! It had gotten to a point where it was all by feel to me by then, I guess, and I didn't even need to be fully awake to do the job once I got rolling! The quota was exceeded that day too!9.gif

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HDBRbuilder,

You forgot the part where you're running back to the operator's window to drop off your program for the unpteenth time, hoping you fixed all the stupid typos and this time the thing will at least compile and abend rather than choking during compilation, and you trip and fall in the dark 'cause it's three AM and this was the first time you could get on the only working cardpunch in your dorm's basement 'cause all the grad students are busily trying to create a new type of black smoker for their LIFE project and you can't get the cards back in the correct order and you get to the window and realize you lost one when the operator hands 'em back to you and says the system rejected your job.

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Posting some good CLEAR pictures would tell us what the wood and model is for them...or at least let us get the wood type narrowed-down for you...especially close-up shots of the wood itself, the corners, and at least one of the REAR corners..taken from above at an oblique angle.

You should be able to fairly easily tell if they have an oil finish or a laquered finish by just looking closely at the finish on them. Later-built ones have a much more difficult to easily determine finish due to the thinner layers of laquer used on the laquered ones. If you have difficilty determining the finish, then you can turn one upside down, if it is a mitered cabinet...then take an eyedropper and drop a small bit of water on it near the bottom rear corner where it will be no big deal and not be noticed if something goes wrong...and observe the drop of water. If the water is being VERY SLOWLY absorbed into the wood veneer there, WITHOUT showing a "milky" discoloration under it, then it has an oil finish, but if the water just sits there and the finish under it starts to look "milky" after awhile, then it is a laquered finish. Be sure to not leave the water on it any longer than it takes to make this determination, then BLOT off the water...DO NOT WIPE IT OFF! If it is a laquered finish that has just begun to turn "milky" in this test, it will dry out with no permanent damage to the finish...providing you BLOT the water off IMMEDIATELY as soon as you see it has caused that "milky" appearance to begin showing itself under the drop of water! Doing this test requires you sit there patiently, while waiting for the results to show themselves. Once you determine the finish you can figure out how to best maintain it.

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Yeah, I recall Holorith (sp) cards. There was a desk size machine to punch them. One line on every card. So 20 lines of code took 20 cards. We used FORTRAN.

Unfortunately the ink ribbons were always worn out and it was difficult to tell what what there.

We got our results back in three days. So you could get just one more run for next week's class. That was a real pain. The delay was exceptionally frustrating and I blame it for not going on with computers at the time. Obviously a poor situation.

I took a course in C++ in recent years. I quipped to the instructor that the last time I took a class, we used punch cards and Fortran. That got an odd look.

The proliferation of personal computers solved a lot. Still, I'm not in the game of writing code.

Most homework and classwork was done with slide rules. They were the nerd's laser sword and a mark of honor. There is a scene in Apollo 13 where a harried engineer needing to crunch data grabbed for his slide rule. It got a laugh. But are they laughing with us, or at us.

Congrats on the Heresies.

Gil

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Hi HDBRMan, as far as I know this speakers aren't laquered. I don't know the right finish name because that's some more specific language knowledgement which I don't have, sorry for that 8.gif

I was also wondering if there's any way to get a replacement for the labels which should be in the back of my speakers and the ex owner has taken off.

Thanks for your help.

A picture has been attached, if it's not useful, let me know I'll take another.

DiEGO!

post-13842-1381925415267_thumb.jpg

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Those are either HWL or HWO Heresys. meaning they are Heresys (H) with American black walnut veneer (W) on them in either a hand-rubbed oil finish (O), or a laquered finish (L). I doubt you will be able to get Klipsch to send you a label for those, if they even still have any of those type of labels. You can call them and ask though.

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It would be nice if you could give me their telephone and the time they work. Even though it's quite difficult, I'm from Argentina and I don't know if they would be able to send me the labels by post or whatever.

I'm 99% sure my speakers are "Heresys Walnut Veneer Hand-Rubbed Oil Finish"...

If they were laquered they should be much more bright like if they had a glass over them or something like that... I think.

Thanks man, you are really helping me with this excellent speakers!

Btw, do you know if the crossover has any attenuation on any frequency?

Is there any way to "calm down" the Tweeters? 2.gif

Thank you VERY much.

I'm so happy to be in here! (the forum I mean!)

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Click on the Klipsch logo at the top of the forum page and go to the help menu. There you will find the contact page. You can phone or email them. Give them the serial numbers and they should be able to tell you the type finish. If they can't send you new labels, there are plenty of pictures you could use to make new ones.

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Another forum member restored his labels, so you may be able to get a set from him. Check out the 2-ch forum, as I think that is where he posted the thread. If not, do a search for jorjen as the author. Jordan does meticulous work!

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