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False corners revisited


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I'm anticipating sealing problems as my walls are not square (maybe something like 85 degres).

Has any of you ever consider making a "mini false corner" by fixing a piece of plywood like depicted on the picture. In my mind, that would make up for a good seal. Plus it would be more rigid than a drywall.

This kind of false corners (or real enclosure sides actually) would still require for the speakers to be pushed against the corners. But it would fix the sealing issue.

sealing.JPG

post-11019-13819255161502_thumb.jpg

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Jeff,

You want to extend beyond the speaker face. The differences in the amount of distance beyond it will have effects unknown to me. Is this picture of one of your Khorns? How near to completion is your PP?

SSH

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Painful Reality,

What you are thinking is what I did with my K-horns at first. I made my 'mini' false corner just as far as the side grills, as you have drawn. Worked pretty good for me, but mine were not attached to the speaker very well (I only had them tacked along the top edge of the bass bin. If I really cranked them I could get the 'mini' corners to flap! Anchor them well and you should be good to go.

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I intend to secure them solidely, eventually adding a brace if the plywood vibrate.

Just to be sure, these plywood sides are only to have a good seal when I'll push the khorns in my not so straight corners. The term false corners for their intended use may not be accurate.

Maybe this drawing will be clearer. The grey lines represent the actual walls that are not perfectly straight. The red lines would be the plywood sides. In black is the K-horn footprint.

seal2.JPG

post-11019-13819255161912_thumb.jpg

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Jeff-

I've done the same thing with one of my K-horns. I've been meaning to get some pics up, so maybe I can get to that soon. I used a piece of 3/4" plywood and mounted it to the wall to form the corner. I used 3 angled shelf supports to mount to the wall and some weatherstripping to seal it all in. K-horns have the pipe insulation along the tailboards and top of the bass cabinet.

I ended up with a length of 38", which is less than the desired 42", but I had a hallway to deal with, and that 6" would make it hard to walk through. Things sound really good, but I know I'm missing a bit of bass with the short side.

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If you copy and paste my pic above my name and enlarge it... You will see I did this too on the right side to a panel. I did this to separate the rooms and match the cabinet wich holds the TV. It is a 3/4 inch MDF wall, which does not Vibrate with the K horn pushed up into it and works very well. (Mine is 36 inches, I feel I get 95-98%+ of the rock solid lows I am looking for this way.)

In a perfect world... It might have come out a little further on the sides to (like others have said) match the side if you were to draw a straight line horizontally accross the front to the wall.. About 48 inches is the (dream) ideal. This is, if you had no back walls at all.

What your talking about though, will be fine IMO.. Your speaker will still send the bass info to the sides... And your close enough to send it along the walls making it sound wonderful. Let us know what you think. Thats what counts the most anyhow!

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Klipsch built a professional model version of the K-horn with plywood opanels attached so that it basically had its own corner built onto it. It was called the TSCM version. The tailboard was made out of 3/4" plywood instead of the standard 1/2" plywood though. Also, two braces were mounted on each side between the added side plywood panels and the bass bin stiffen them and eliminate unwanted resonances from the added plywood sides.

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Thanks for all the replies. The fact that the khorns have no external side have always puzzled me as of "why". This seems to me more like a cost saving option (while probably faclitating the access of the 15 inch trap door).

Interesting note HDBR. Are you refering to this beast?

TSCM.JPG

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I'm no expert here, but I will be soon. I'm wearing down my wife. I have done some extensive surfing and investigating regarding false walls or the walls not resonating from the K-horns pounding on them.

I hypothasize (nice word, HUH, Remembered it from college) that If a guy were to go to their local Cultured marble shop and request that they manufacture 4- 3/4 inch thick cultured Marble slabs (these babies are solid and very ridged, I doubt any resonance will result from them. Make sure they are the exact size that False Corners should be built according to The "Dope from Hope". Order them in White on White. That is the closest thing to a white wall. Bring them home and use a good grade of construction adhesive. Make sure you use the "2,3,4 formula", Don't know this formula, Just ask your neighborhood Union Journeyman carpenter to explain it he uses it everyday. This is used in creating a perfect 45 degree traingle in the corner of your room and shim behind them on the outside corners. Cover the open edges with a good sliconized caulk after they have set. This is to give a decent cosmetic appearance as the outside vertical edge will be as much as 3/8 inch away from the wall. The trick is to obtain a perfect 90 Degree angle for the Khorn to seal in.

The reason your Khorns don't seal well is becaues drywall is flat in the corners. A thin coat of Drywall "mud" is applied, then drywall tape applied to that. This prevents cracking in the corners. Then depending on the taping contractor, there is at least one thicker coat of mud in the corner building up the inside of the corner of the wall giving the impression of an 85 degree angle.

I like the idea of using cultured marble as it is relatively inexpensive, very ridged, and structurally sound in relatively thin panels. I have decided that when we build next year, the marble installer is going to be installing these in the corners of my HT. He'll probably flip.

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----------------

On 5/19/2004 7:48:23 PM the plummer wrote:

Make sure you use the "2,3,4 formula", Don't know this formula, Just ask your neighborhood Union Journeyman carpenter to explain it he uses it everyday. This is used in creating a perfect 45 degree traingle in the corner of your room and shim behind them on the outside corners.

The reason your Khorns don't seal well is becaues drywall is flat in the corners. A thin coat of Drywall "mud" is applied, then drywall tape applied to that. This prevents cracking in the corners. Then depending on the taping contractor, there is at least one thicker coat of mud in the corner building up the inside of the corner of the wall giving the impression of an 85 degree angle.

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The reason my khorns don't seal well is probably because the Union Journey man carpenter who built my house back in 1897 used the 2-3-4 rule instead of the much more efficient 3-4-5 rule for making square corners...

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Of course Jeff you could always do what Klipsch recommends:

Staple a 3'4"(1.03M)piece of carpet runner to the back board and push the Khorn home. The best kind of carpet runner is that industrial black stuff. If you don't have any windows, doors, knee walls, baseboard heat,etc this is the way to go.

Rick

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