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Hey Klipsch...


Deang

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LOL, well Craig, I was surprised I could clearly hear the 16Khz signal from the speakers -- so that's good news as far as my hearing goes.

Bob, I've never heard that before. My meter is a couple of years old, and the manual doesn't say anything about that, does yours? Below are some well known calibration curves for the meter. My understanding is that the meter can be used and trusted for the most part as long as the corrections are made.

http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/49147.html

Same deal here, but a little easier to read.

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htforum/printpost.php?postid=231211

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Probably the same place my treble is at..awol from the (analog, in my case) ratshack spl meter.

Even with corrections applied, by 12k there was nothing unless I held the meter's mike about a foot from the tweet horn.

Yet I can hear signal clear up to 18khz.

*peers at your graph*

Huh. I guess there is a family resemblance there.. I have a bump at 50, and another at 100.. kinda like yours. Mine are fortes, in a decidedly non-optimal room.

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You guys are too funny. Here I am dealing with a crisis of epic proportions, and all you can do is poke fun. 9.gif

It must be the meter, because it sounds great. Hey, about them goofy false corners of mine -- not near the loss I expected.

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All the calibration tools in the world will never match the human ear .

I use to be a " spec " junkie years ago untill i realized it did'nt mean jack **** cuz room sizes,acoustics and aux components are all in the chain .

Just like the old dual carbs on my tunnel ram 454 LS-7 454 chevelle malibu , that girl always ran better when i adjusted the fuel air mixture and timing by ear and feel .

If it sounds good then let her fly , sounds like crap then figure out why .

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I was under a similar understanding as Bob where the RS meter inconsistently starts rolling off under 10k.

You have to remember that the RatShack meters aren't calibrated mics... and only give a general approximation. Calibrated microphones are individually measured and sold with a calibration curve specific to the unit you are buying. The RS SPL correction factors commonly available serve as a general indication where these meters deviate... but don't take into account individual, batch, and update variations... which can be pretty significant.

Later...

Rob

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----------------

On 8/31/2004 2:06:59 AM TBrennan wrote:

Dean---Seeing as you claim to improve Klipsch products you really should invest in a decent testing program and calibrated mic. Or at the least the mic and a good RTA. Knowing the results of your work is good engineering.

----------------

7.gif

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Well, he's right I suppose.

OTOH, I'm not really re-engineering any networks, and I think most understand that higher quality parts are going to result in a higher level of performance. I've got enough ears behind me now on that one that I sleep O.K. most of the time.

The false corner mod I drummed up kicks ***. Sometimes good engineering is just good old fashioned common sense. 50 years and no one came up with that one. Chalk another one up for the guy who invented the vise.

If anything I do doesn't bring an improvement, or doesn't work -- I have plenty who'll tell me about it, and I'll be the first to come forward and admit it when I'm convinced. I don't lie, and I don't stick my head in the sand.

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Dean,

Never mind the highs - the meters are not considered reliable above 10K - but I would be more interested in taming that 63 Hz dip / 80 Hz peak - almost certainly a result of room acoustics I would say.

Try re-testing those frequencies with the meter up as close to one of the speakers as possible - to eliminate room effects as much as possible and see if you get the same effect.

Other than that the 4KHz low followed by the 6.3 KHz high is interesting - I wonder why you are getting that? Tailing off thereafter may well be more to do with the measuring equipment than anything else, but I seem to remember the KHorn is only good for 17.5 KHz anyway (@ -3 dB anechoic room).

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Dean---Are you revoicing the speakers? Just what are the improvements intended? How can you be sure that different, "better" parts are not going against the intention of a designer who intended certain parts to work together in a certain way, a synergy?

That's why you should test if you're serious. It may be you're revoicing the speakers in which case you may be simply changing them but not improving them.

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