Q-Man Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 I like to use bondo to prepare the surface to be covered. It dries faster then wood putty and sands faster and smother. Try it sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 The Band-it will bend easily around a 90 degree corner if the grain is lenght-wise (parallel to the corner) but will not bend against the grain. If you use the hot melt use a nice slow motion and have a rag behind the iron to keep the veneer down until it cools a little. You want to avoid long term dips that a flat sander will sand right through the very thin veneer. I know, I been there and done it. Its easy to get back off with the iron if you make a mistake. I know, been there and done it. You can edge butt two smaller pieces to make one big one lengthwise and fill the slight imperfections with plastic wood. I know, been there and done it. Once you get your first coat of stain on sand very carefully as you will create light-dark areas. I know, been there and done it. If you want the in between grain filled in use an appropriate grain filler as you will never be able to flatten it out as there is not enough thickness in the veneer. I know, been there and done it. If you are going to make a perfectly flat surface let the finish coats of miniwax polyurethane sit for about at least 30 days to settle as if you smooth it out after about 24 hrs it will slowly settle and the grain will pop out. I know, been there and done it. If you use polyurethane (clear) I put on 6 coats sanding the first three with 220 grit orbital sander then the next two with 600 wet/dry (wet) then then the next with 1200 wet. Get some fine 3m buffing compound from the auto parts store with a 6" or 9" foam buffing pad (not cotton) and a buffing tool or grinder and buff with some water and clean off with white t-shirts. Everything in sight will get smuthered with flying polish but the finish will be like a mirror. Also tape off protection for any exposed speaker. Now you know why I would use Formica the next time. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 My gawd... Sounds like a lot of work. Also, sounds like you want a formica type finish. I'm not going after that type of finish. I want a natural look. No gloss actually, I'm thinking about just applying the veneer sanding as necessary and oiling them up. BUT, I don't know if that's the best thing to do or not. I just know I don't want a glass like finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted January 7, 2005 Share Posted January 7, 2005 Satin finishes can also look very nice, especially on a highly figured wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted January 7, 2005 Author Share Posted January 7, 2005 Michael, that may be so, but they will stand out like a sore thumb... Just want them to match the exisiting stereo entertainment center and computer hutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 I had fun doing it listening to my old tube radio in the barn. I even made videos of it. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted January 8, 2005 Author Share Posted January 8, 2005 By all means, share those video! Everyone here is a fan of the pictures of peoples work. Video is even better. Do you have the means to get them on your PC and post them somewhere? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 I usually make a big deal out of it. The video is short and in raw form. Close-ups were difficult.I'll mess with it and figure out how to post it up but I don't know when as I have about 6 large projects in the computer. It might be 6 months from now. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 m00n, I'm kidding a bit about the iron. It's just that having the iron in the shop, you might get other junk on it and the wife wouldn't be too pleased. But an iron is pretty cheap in the grand scheme of things. Have you looked at greg's website yet. Using the heavier veneer without any paper backing or adhesive already on it gives you more wood to work with once it is on the cabinet. This method it NOT like the iron on veneers you buy in the store. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Tightbond also makes a water based contact cement i used it and loved it,,,,Greg said the wood glue and iron method didnt work to well i think...maybe he will post about it again here. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 RickT and Rick m00n, Take a look at this adhesive. I used it on my Blueberry case for a test. Works wonderfully. It has a higher solids ratio than ordinary PVA, no fumes and no bleed through. I just followed these instructions: http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/iron-on-veneering.htm?osCsid=b134c502e813ef4aa1926a936b8cdcab I must say that since I put that glorious figured walnut veneer on the Juicy Music Blueberry, the sound stage has just opened up as the mid-range glows and the highs shimmer, the bass tightens. I listened with all my usual trial cuts and found myself becoming so engrossed in the sound that I played the whole album. This is a "must have" tweak if you own a Juicy Blueberry. RickW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Ok, I'll bite... Whats a blueberry... Other than that little blue berry that grows on a bush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 I believe it is a tube set up...the other from that company is the Peach...sorry, don't know the company (internet only.?.) Damned audiophiles...;-) Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 What the heck is it that you want to veneer again? What I want is a trick for building up damaged corners. Oh, I can do it -- but it takes f o r e v e r. www.juicymusicaudio.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2K Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 I passed up a pair of Cornwalls up in Tennessee last year because of that reason Dean, rounded corners. The MDF was crumbly (technical term) and it seemed it would be impossible to repair the veneer to the area. I had thought about using wood bondo though. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 One of the strongest things to repair that with is a small fibreglass repair kit. But then you have to touch up the finish. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Damaged MDF corners can be repaired by: Remove the damaged,loose MDF then building up the corner with Bondo, file and sand to rebuild corner then veneering. I can't post a pic for some reason. (Keep getting an error message from Klipsch server.) Maybe later. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 We moved offices one time at the college where I work. Student workers moved my desk. THey dropped it on the way down some steps, and took off a pyramid shaped piece from one corner. You know, desktop - laminate on praticle board. It WAS a pretty nice desk. Our paintshop supervisor said he could do just that - build it up and put a matching finish on it. We haven't bothered with it. Now it has passed on to someone else. I would have just removed the top, rotated it 180 degrees, and put it back doswn. Then the damage would have been against the wall. But it has cutouts for cables, etc., in the top, and nothing would have matched. I was pretty annoyed when it happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 ---------------- On 1/9/2005 4:44:18 PM 3dzapper wrote: Damaged MDF corners can be repaired by: Remove the damaged,loose MDF then building up the corner with Bondo, file and sand to rebuild corner then veneering. I can't post a pic for some reason. (Keep getting an error message from Klipsch server.) Maybe later. Rick ---------------- Better late than never. A little sandin and maybe another coat and it's good to go. Whatsamatter? You don't like oaknblue? Maybe yez like blacknblue betta. Ah fugetabotit! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m00n Posted January 11, 2005 Author Share Posted January 11, 2005 Hell, just whip out yoru hacksaw and build a new cab. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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