jwc Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 I have built a bass bin and there are a few areas inside where the adjoining wood may have a small separation. The cabinet is "glued and screwed" but I would like to fill the internal gaps. Any suggestions? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttaylor Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 Not elegant by any means, but Ive been using Liquid Nails for years and it works well if applied properly. Real sticky and not only fills but mechanically strenghtens the joint. taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 30, 2005 Author Share Posted March 30, 2005 Can I get this from Home depot? Is it called "Liquid nails"? jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Mobley Posted March 30, 2005 Share Posted March 30, 2005 that's what it's called and that's where you can buy it. Also at Lowes, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Yes, it comes in big tubes as would be used with a caulking gun and also smaller, squeeze-out, tooth paste sized tubes. The latter would be easier to use in tight spot. Be a bit careful. I recall that several products are sold under the trademark, particularly in the smaller tube. One is close to white or yellow carpenter's glue. The stuff you want is probably called construction adhesive. A good alternative is silicone bathtub caulk. It comes in black, white, almond, and clear. Sometimes this color thing makes a difference. You do want to be able to see where you've put it. I use silicone to seal up the back chamber of bass horns. It is smelly and can cause a skin rash if you use a finger to force it into the crack. So, in any case, use a dowel instead of a digit. Gil Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfyr Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 One other potential option for cabinet repair is Bondo, the car body 'putty'. It just depends on the nature of what you are trying to repair. But if the cracks are small, a good quality 'putty' should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Bondo does not flex at all, I would recommend an adhesive type sealant that remains flexible, like construction adhesive / liquid nails. You can work in small areas ( like the inside of the cabinet ), if you use disposable gloves ( latex, pvc, or nitrile ) and the end of your finger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 Good idea, I have a pile of disposable gloves at the house. I appreciate everyone help. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Gloves are always a good idea. Sorry I didn't mention it. Sometimes I make small errors in cutting. (More like, often I make large errors and don't admit to it.) I generally use Titebond II which is a yellow carpenter's glue. The containers have a chisle tip. This make it possible to force the glue into the gap. The stuff dries to something which is fairly pliable. The downside is that the unhardened Titebond II can flow out of where you want it to be. Arranging things so gravity your friend, rather than enemy, helps of course. Gil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted March 31, 2005 Author Share Posted March 31, 2005 Is any of this stuff sandable? Lets say I need to screw on a motorboard but the mounting peices of wood are slightly seperated. 1: I want a seal 2: I need a flat surface So if I put liquid nails or such, will I be able to sand the surface to make it flat? What about Good ole Elmers wood glue? Would this be as effective? I know I could sand this. Maybe liquid nails is stronger. jc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael hurd Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 After liquid nails actually dries, you can scrape it off, I don't know if it sands well. Liquid nails will fill larger gaps than regular wood glue will. ( thicker ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olorin Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 Just my opinion, but I'd rather seal it with something that keeps some flex, and Liquid Nails is going to harden over time. I've used clear silicon caulk on car boxes and had good success with it. I've never experienced skin irritation from it, but wearing dishwashing gloves or something similar couldn't hurt any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 ---------------- On 3/31/2005 11:52:52 PM Olorin wrote: Just my opinion, but I'd rather seal it with something that keeps some flex, and Liquid Nails is going to harden over time. I've used clear silicon caulk on car boxes and had good success with it. I've never experienced skin irritation from it, but wearing dishwashing gloves or something similar couldn't hurt any. ---------------- Plus, after you apply the caulk you just wipe it with a damp sponge (if it's latex) and there is no need to sand as you will have a perfect seal. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmar Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 All the suggestions are good for sealing cabinets. I use autobody fillers or epoxy's for large voids or gaps. these are not flexible and less likely to be taken apart but are sandable. Calk for running a bead around the internal cabinet for air sealing is great. Silicone is the best and DAP acrylics are cheaper and easier to use with a life expectancy that will out live the cabinet. Also available at home depot now is a sealant called SIKA Sika Flex has been around the industrial world for years and may be worth a look for your project. Bill Martinelli Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aviserated Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Paint will not stick to silicone. www.eastwood.com sells flexible plastic bumper filler and it is sandable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aviserated Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Check with any automotive paint store concerning flexible body filler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaggy and Scooby Posted April 3, 2005 Share Posted April 3, 2005 I build a sub box for my truck. I used some grey silicone. It was the kind that came in a caulking tube. In order to fill the gaps inside the cabinet which was to say the least a bit odd shaped. I bought some vinyl clear tubing from the same place. It was big enough to fit over the end of the tube. I used this to get inside the box and seal it up. It can be a bit messy take some gloves to smooth it and make it look pretty. The end result was worth it. You can't see in on the outside and if you need to paint it you have no worries. I would use some good wood putty to fill the gaps on the outside. Are you going to veneer over the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 3, 2005 Author Share Posted April 3, 2005 These are some great suggestions. I will only be putting filler in the inside of the cabinet to fill the gaps. I will use elmers wood filler for the outside. Bondo I'm sure is better but I have had good success with he filler.. I think the veener project would be fun but my wife is all about the black speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted April 3, 2005 Share Posted April 3, 2005 "Is any of this stuff sandable? Lets say I need to screw on a motorboard but the mounting peices of wood are slightly seperated. 1: I want a seal 2: I need a flat surface So if I put liquid nails or such, will I be able to sand the surface to make it flat? What about Good ole Elmers wood glue? Would this be as effective? I know I could sand this. Maybe liquid nails is stronger." It may not be too applicable for separations, but to fill holes and make a flat surface, Wood Doe and fine sawdust would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwc Posted April 3, 2005 Author Share Posted April 3, 2005 Yes I will use the Elmer's wood glue in some places. I already have some. I think this works great. I would love to hear someone comment on whether this is as strong as the liquid nails. However, there is some gaps that I think are just a bit too big and I may have to try the liquid nails or the caulk/silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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