dragonfyr Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 I hear ya! My initial reaction was a bit quizical as well! But I must admit, it works amazingly well. I WON'T go back to the synthetic after experiencing these results. And considering my yard is filled with far too many mature oaks, the effects of the broadleaf weed killer would not be pretty!! Here is the link regarding the molasses - again it is thoroughly tested at the University Ag centers: And I will just post it here: Molasses Sweet syrup that is a carbohydrate used as a soil amendment to feed and stimulate microorganisms. Contains sulfur, potash, and many trace minerals. Approximate analysis is 1-0-5. Molasses provides food for microorganisms and is a source of carbon, sulfur, and potash. It is a good, quick source of energy for the soil life and microbes in a compost pile, and will chase fire ants away. It is a carbon source and feeds beneficial microbes creating greater nature fertility. Liquid molasses is used in sprays and dry molasses is used as an ingredient in organic fertilizers. It contains sulfur, potash, and other trace minerals. Excellent foliar feeding material and can be mixed with other organic liquids. Use at 2-4 quarts/acre for soil application. For foliar application on broadleaf plants use 1 pint per acre. For grasses and grains still use 1 quart per acre. Blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the sulfur and iron of the original material. Dry molasses isnt really straight dried molasses. Its molasses sprayed on a grain residue carrier. Its an excellent carbon source that stimulates beneficial microorganisms. And, it repels fire ants. Molasses is the best sugar for horticultural use because of its trace minerals. Blackstrap is hard to find but is the best molasses because of the sulfur and iron, but any kind will work. Molasses is a carbon source and feeds the beneficial microbes creating greater natural plant fertility. Molasses also has a nice side benefit. When used with compost tea and orange oil, it kills fire ants and other insect pests. By itself, molasses repels fire ants effectively. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 Speedball and 3dzapper gave good advice. Mow higher- 3- 3 1/2 minimum, this will allow the good grasses to shade out the weed seeds. Cutting it shorter will not reduce the number of times you have to mow during the growing season. It'll just look worse. Never cut more that 1/3 of the grass blade away, if you cut all the tops off, you'll just have stalk left- won't look as green. A good pre-emergent application will help stave off the crab grass, it may take several growing seasons to eliminate it all. Remember seeds lie dormant for years. Good luck Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokem Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 I use the Scotts 4 Step program. If I am planting seed I use starter fertilizer instead of Step #1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 m00n, Worms are your lawn's friends. They eat grass clippings and leaf debris and convert it into essential nutrients and top soil that your lawn needs. Their holes are an added benifit. They provide aeration and a path for water and nutrients to reach the roots. dragonfyr, Here in the Northeast, we don't want to add sulpher, we must add lime. The Ph here is acidic and we get plenty of sulfer from Midwest power plants in our rain. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverSport Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 In the Chicagoland area you need to drop the crabgrass preventer right now if you haven't already...I mow mine to a 2 1/2" height...I have never had a crabgrass problem but I mostly use Scotts crabgrass preventer, Step #1 in the 4 step program (which has grown to 5 steps with the Winterizer plus step). When I had tried other brands, my lawn did not seem as nice...I have never had crabgrass but this may be an area thing and not so much the Scott's, I don't know... I think by letting the lawn grow a bit longer (but not long by any means) you allow the grass to become stronger and it is able to fend off crabgrass easier...once crabgrass is there is its very hard to remove...now if I could get rid of the dandelions... . just my .02 Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfyr Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 Yeah, the alkaline thing is new for me too! As it is normal for the soil to be alkaline here. But the corn glutenmeal for weed control and crabgrass pre-emergence is sound, as is the molasses treatment. The blastrap molasees, that contains the sulphur is as a trace mineral, it is not sufficient to change the alkalinity of the soil. I wish it was, as I have to compost heavily with oak leaves and to still use miracid for dogwoods and azaleas. Its use is primarily for the plants use as opposed to a soil amendment. And you are right! you DON'T want to kill the worms!!!! If their presence is a problem, just let the grass grow taller. If you succedd in killing them you have just sterilized your soil and you willhave real problems! Also, for allof you who may be tempted to use any of the broad insecticides!!! Please don't! If you look at the application schedule they want you to reapply every several months - for ever!!!!! And the run off is a primary source of non-point pollution. Has anyone noticed that you seldom see the once commonplace lightning bugs anymore? Thank the insecticides! I wish someone sold lightning bug larvae! But instead, check into a local source of beneficial nemotodes. They will attack the soil based baddies. And also, locate "milky spore". It is a powder innoculant for the milky spore fungus that will grow in the soil and it attacks the destructive grubs such as Japanese beetles but leaves the good worms etc. alone. Not only that, but a simple application will last ~ 10 years!!!!! So it does great things and saves you alot of hassle and expense applying the nasy stuff that kills everything every month or so! So I hope everyone is ready for the Saturday morning lawnmower races! Gee, everything has been green here for over a month and I have had to mow every weekend for that period - of course since I have been here it is a real debate as to whether or not it is worth buying a jacket for the week or two of cold weather (seldom freezing!!! - plus the locals freak at the mention of snow and the Kroger parking lot becomes the most dangerous place in the state as everyone rushes to wipe out all the bread and milk and stock up with 6 months of supplies for what is never more then an inch or so of snow that lasts for that 1 day! Lots of entertainment value!). But it sure is easy to get used to the mild sort winter and the LONG summer! OK, I think I have irked a few of you still stuck in the permafrost, so.... have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodger Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 Due to allergies, I have someone else cut the lawn. But, I do have Chemlawn and in between I spray the lawn, rosebushes other flowers with Miracle Gro. The combination keeps it nice and green while keeping out the crab grass and other weeds. I have found that using an electric lawnmower (whoever does it) seems to be easier on the allergies and asthma. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picky Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 jacksonbart: Unfortunately, regarding your crabgrass, you are probably already too late to do much about it this season. The crabgrass is already developing and once that happens the only thing that will rid you of it is to physically remove it and all of its roots by hand. NEXT YEAR: in Late March or very early April, I recommend that you consider a good application of Scott's Turfbuilder with Halts Crabgrass Preventer. This should help eliminate your crabgrass before it can germinate. It should help prevent some other weeds, too. I have Kentucky Bluegrass and I use the product each Spring and I do not have crabgrass any more. Do not seed your lawn for at least six weeks following the application. Throughtout the growning season starting in May I apply Scotts Turfbuilder Fertilizer every 30 days (or at least once each on Memorial Day, 4th of July and Labor Day). I use Weed-B-Gone spray weekly as needed on any stubborn patches of chickweed, dandelions or clover. In the Fall (October) I apply Scott's Winterizer Lawn Fertilizer. Their web site is a fountain of information which can be taylor-made to your climatic conditions by entering in your Zip Code! http://www.scotts.com/index.cfm/event/Home.normal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Speedball Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 My neighbors lawn is perfect, very soft to walk on and he has always used a company to spray his lawn in the summer and plug it with holes in the Fall. Our lawn looks pretty good but it is covered with approximately 174 billion dandelions.....lol. May be time for him to start paying us a visit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 We get tons of lightning bugs here. So many that late at night you can see them flashing out in the yard and trees from inside the house. Lots of skinks too. They sun themselves on our deck. Have found some spotted salamanders in the yard as well. I spary a little bit around our dog's run, as we have lots of ticks some years. I guess we could get some Guineas for the yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRBILL Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 10:14:01 PM m00n wrote: Are there any kind of worm killers out there? ---------------- I hope not. Earthworms are a lawn's best friends. DR BILL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfyr Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 ---------------- On 4/28/2005 10:14:01 PM m00n wrote: Are there any kind of worm killers out there? ---------------- I hope not. Earthworms are a lawn's best friends. ------------------------------------------------------------- Amen! Its nice to read something I can wholeheartedly endorse! Well, gotta run! ...I might have missed something intelligent in the Set Debate!. Come to think of it, I've missed something intelligent in it for the past 7 pages ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRBILL Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 ---------------- On 4/29/2005 1:01:43 PM Marvel wrote: I guess we could get some Guineas for the yard. ---------------- OH yes! Guineas! We did that about fifteen years ago. The neighbors are just beginning to speak again. No need for a security system day or night. They followed the kids to the bus stop like ducklings. Noisy beyond belief. If they weren't eating they were crying out with every breath. You can sell your Klipschorns. You wont be able to hear them. DR BILL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 Maybe I'll just get some Guinness instead... We had a good friend who lived in Midtown Memphis. Had a goose for a pet. Better than any watchdog ever was. Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.