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Growing Grass


jacksonbart

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Ok, lawn grass that is. For the last few years I would usually mow my lawn very short (second lowest setting on a push mower, I am in an acre but the most of the back property is wooded) looked neat, but I also noticed crab grass was really creeping in. I don't need the perfect lawn I just don't want all weeds either. Any way I read that actually cutting it at higher hieghts would increase the crab grass resistance and prevent alot of the weeds that I typically want to cut back which is why I was mowing so low. These last few summers have been wet, so a brown lawn was not an issue, so far.

Just hoping to learn from your personal experiance (I know some of you Klipsch fans must be lawn snobs as well) and can provide whether that will work. Its early spring here in PA so, I am just getting clumps of grass above 2 1/2 inches as opposed to cutting everything at 1 & 1/2.

Any advice or products would be appreciated except as to what to smoke.

BTW I use outdoor Advent speakers for the back yard.

Thanks in advance.

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We have about three acres, mostly heavy shade. The former owners would treat the yard to get the ph right, sow seed every year and then mow all summer. Made no sense to me (or the wife).

We let the grass die off. Now we have a beautiful yard with different varieties of moss. It's soft, mostly green, and doesn't require mowing. I now have much less to mow, only where the yard gets plenty of sun.

Marvel

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Don't even get me started...

OPPS... To late

Begged wife not to do it but she did it anyway. Paid $1,000.00 to have some hacks come out and redo our lawn. It was very lumpy. Like walking through a pasture. Oh and to take care of some weeds. I told them very SPECIFICALLY what was wrong, what we wanted fixed. Asked them to put some plastic down in the flower beds to help with weeds, they said na, no need for that... After talking it over, I finally caved into their idea.

$1,000.00 less and year later, our yard is NO better now than it was the day before they started.

It's a VERY nice little token to have in my pocket to give my wife pure hell about and belive me... I DO.

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On 4/28/2005 7:05:05 PM fastlane wrote:

That $1000 should have gone toward gear that you did not need so she could give you crap about it. What a waste.

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Tell me about it!

Another thing that erks my *** is that she is too stubborn and pig headed to admit that I was right and she was wrong.

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I used to care for the grounds at 3 different Girl Scout camps.

We generally let the grass grow somewhat tall 4"-5". never did cut it short like many homeowners. The grass is just as lush as can be...beautiful when the wind blows against it. Never did have a problem with crabgrass or weeds.

I'm suprised how many homeowners are afraid to drive or park on their lawns for a day or so. It is fine!...really! Just don't do a burnout and tear it by the roots and it will spring right back up in a couple days.

Feel the blade of the mower, it should feel razor sharp.

Anyway, I've never been schooled on lawncare....just have hands on experience.

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Here, in VT things are just starting to look green. Rain, Rain, Rain. I do small engine repair as a side line. Busy,pays for the toys. I tend to watch how one mows,can always see how the machine needs to be serviced as to how it's cutting. For me , Green is Gr$$n Larry

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I am very proud of my lawn. In early spring, I apply Scotts #1 fertilizer with crabgrass preventer.(once it comes up, it is hard to kill without killing the fine grasses) In May, I apply #2 fertilizer with broadleaf weed killer. At the end of June, I apply #1 again instead of #3. In late August I use plain Scotts fertilizer. Then in early October, Winterizer. I also apply Grubex in late July/early August.

Because of the increased number of feedings, I apply slightly less than that recommended on the bags. ie: I use about a 15,000sqft bag for 20,000sqft. (I have 30ksqft of lawn.)

I mow it short in spring when the weather is wet and cool to stimulate root growth then longer in the summer to shade the roots. And spot treat as necessary.

Rick

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My dad, RIP, grew beautiful lawns at our house on Long Island. Now I recognize that part of it was that he had cheapo labor to do the mowing at $1.00 per week. Me.

His theory was that the little grass plants need much more height to florish than is typically allowed. So the reel type lawn mower was always set to the highest possible setting. Otherwise the plants are always getting a crew- cut and living on the edge, having been cut down to the stem.

No one would expect a house plant, or wheat (another grass or cerial) to live like that. Let it live to half height and cut it down to quarter height every week.

He did knock out crabgrass with a sprayer by spritzing only the offending item, not the whole lawn.

The results were spectacular. It would wave in the breeze and was very green.

We also would cut on 90 degree patterns like the professional ball fields. Pretty.

There was furtilizer applied. At that time you could get chemical or, in contrast, organic (maybe pulverized animal poop?). The latter is more slow acting and there was not an issue of over applying or burning.

Gil

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On 4/28/2005 8:35:30 PM 3dzapper wrote:

I am very proud of my lawn. In early spring, I apply Scotts #1 fertilizer with crabgrass preventer.(once it comes up, it is hard to kill without killing the fine grasses) In May, I apply #2 fertilizer with broadleaf weed killer. At the end of June, I apply #1 again instead of #3. In late August I use plain Scotts fertilizer. Then in early October, Winterizer. I also apply Grubex in late July/early August.

Because of the increased number of feedings, I apply slightly less than that recommended on the bags. ie: I use about a 15,000sqft bag for 20,000sqft. (I have 30ksqft of lawn.)

I mow it short in spring when the weather is wet and cool to stimulate root growth then longer in the summer to shade the roots. And spot treat as necessary.

Rick

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[/blockquote

Rick,thats a textbook answer,with textbook results I'm sure.I recommend following this to the letter for optimum results,OR do the moss thing.

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Wouldn't lawn care vary from differences in climate?

You got m00n in a wetter climate such as Oregon, and other's in more arid climates.....

I bet 3D Zapper's yard look's tight.

Like he said, mow short in spring and fall, leave it long in the summer for sunshade. Keeps the grass from drying out.

I've seen too many people want it mowed short in the summer, then wonder why it's fried and they have to throw tons of water on it to even keep it green.

Then they fertilize.....now it grows 6 inches a week....is sopping *** wet sticky to mow and eventually turns back to the fried look after the fertilizer wears off.

About 3 weeks......

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As far as a crabgrass pre-emergent, you may be surprised to learn about this - as well as its other effects and a few other tested weed treatments. It was discovered and researched at The University of Iowa, and it WORKS! Its great for broadleaf weeds too! Corn gluten meal combined with argicultural molasses (pelletized) will do wonders for the lawn!

But don't take my word, you can read about it here:

http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=17

http://www.dirtdoctor.com/dallasnews.php?id=35

The height depends on the type of grass you have, but generally, higher is better - for both water retention (it gets just a little hot and dry down here!) and also for weed control.

But give the corn gluten a try! And the molasses. I think you'll be quite amazed!

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Dragon,

I didnt check your links yet but at first thought it sounds like breakfast for your lawn2.gif

Poor Moon...the "other half" has control of the yard..hope you make a firm stand with the 2 channel equipment.9.gif

OK, now back to smoking.....errrrrr...cutting grass

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