What NOT to do when veneering

[1BigBore]

Hi.

I am sorry to butt in, but I have to ask a question. I have never heard of using PVA glue for veneer, so I looked it up on the web and found this:

http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/ironon.html

and I was wondering if this is what you were speaking of?

Thank you for any help.

1BB

[colterphoto1]

I believe the need for respirator mask is based on the harder woods. They create a finer dust particle with sharp edges that is EXTREMELY irritating to the sinus passages and bronchaii. Even with normal carpentry woods, caution should be exercised around pressure treated woods, Aspenite (OSB), and certain hardwood varieties for this same reason.

Pay attention or cough like there's no tomorrow- it HURTS people. Be careful. And remember to wear hearing protection when operating saws and other power tools as well.

Michael

[franczyk]

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On 5/6/2005 2:33:59 PM colterphoto1 wrote:

And remember to wear hearing protection when operating saws and other power tools as well.

Michael

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Man, it would SUCK to build some beautiful new speakers or veneer some nice heritage Klipsch, and then having forgotten to use hearing protection, have a ringing in your ears from the power tools!

Why even go through the trouble of making/veneering high end audio equipment when you won't even be able to tell the difference between it and mid-fi?

[Marvel]

A lot of these are used in instrument making, and I pulled this from the MIMF that I am a member of. Note that some can cause cancer in nasal passages (rare), but most are just irritants:

# Afromosia: irritant/eye & skin, respiratory/great/dust/rare

# Alder: irritant/eye & skin, respiratory

# Angelico: irritant/eye & skin, respiratory/great/dust

# Arborvitae: irritant/respiratory

# Ash: irritant/respiratory

# Baldcypress: sensitizer/respiratory/small/dust/rare

# Balsam fir: sensitizer/eye & skin/small/dust/rare

# Beech: sensitizer/respiratory/great/dust/rare

# Birch: sensitizer/respiratory, nausea/great/dust, wood/rare

# Black locust: irritant/nausea/great/rare

# Blackwood: sensitizer/eye & skin/great/dust, wood/common

# Boxwood: sensitizer/respiratory/small/dust, wood/rare

# Cashew: sensitizer/eye & skin/great/dust, wood/rare

# Chechem: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin/great/dust, wood/unknown

# Cocobolo: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin/great/dust, wood/common

# Dahoma: sensitizer/respiratory/great/dust/common

# Ebony: irritant, sensitizer/respiratory, eye & skin/great/dust, wood/common

# Elm: sensitizer/eye & skin/small/dust/rare

# Fir: irritant/eye & skin/small/rare

# Goncolo alves: sensitizer/eye & skin/small/dust, wood/rare

# Greenheart: sensitizer/respiratory, eye & skin/extreme/dust, wood/common

# Guarea: sensitizer/eye & skin/extreme/dust/rare

# Hemlock: nasal cancer/great/dust/rare

# Ipe: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin

# Iroko: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin/extreme/dust, wood/common

# Katon: irritant/respiratory

# Kingwood: irritant/eye & skin

# Mahogany, American: sensitizer/respiratory, eye & skin/small/dust/rare

# Mahogany, African: sensitizer/respiratory/great/dust/rare

# Makore: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin

# Mansonia: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin/extreme/dust, wood/common

# Manzinilla: irritant/respiratory/dust/rare

# Maple: sensitizer/respiratory/great/dust, wood/rare

# Mimosa: irritant/nasal/extreme/dust, wood/common

# Myrtle: sensitizer/respiratory/great/dust, wood/common

# Oak, red: nasal/great/dust/rare

# Obeche: sensitizer/respiratory, eye & skin/great/dust/common

# Olivewood: sensitizer/respiratory, eye & skin/great/dust, wood/common

# Opepe: sensitizer/respiratory/small/dust/rare

# Orangewood: respiratory/rare

# Padauk: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin, nausea/extreme/dust, wood/common

# Pau ferro: sensitizer/eye & skin/small/dust, wood/rare

# Peroba rose: sensitizer/respiratory/great/dust, wood/common

# Peroba white: sensitizer/respiratory, eye & skin

# Purpleheart: sensitizer/eye & skin, nausea/small/dust, wood/rare

# Quebracho: nasal cancer/great/dust/rare

# Ramin: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin/small/dust/rare

# Redwood: sensitizer/respiratory, nasal cancer/small/dust/rare

# Rosewood(s): irritant, sensitizer/respiratory, eye & skin/extreme/dust, wood/common

# Satinwood: irritant/respiratory, eye & skin/extreme/dust, wood/common

# Sassafras: sensitizer/respiratory, nausea, nasal cancer/small/dust, wood/rare

# Sequoia: irritant/respiratory, nasal cancer/small/dust, wood/rare

# Snakewood: irritant/respiratory/great/dust, wood/rare

# Spruce: sensitizer/respiratory/small/dust, wood/rare

# Stavewood: irritant/respiratory

# Sucupira: irritant/respiratory

# Teak: sensitizer/eye & skin/extreme/dust/common

# Walnut, black: sensitizer/eye & skin/great/leaves & bark/unknown

# Wenge: sensitizer/respiratory, eye & skin/great/dust/common

# Willow: sensitizer/nasal cancer/great/dust/unknown

# W. redcedar: sensitizer/respiratory, nasal cancer/great/dust/common

# Yew, Europe: irritant/eye & skin/great/dust/common

# Zebrawood: sensitizer/eye & skin/great/dust/rare

[cueman]

I think I found the right finish. A clear satin poly from Minwax. It darkens the wood just a hair, yet pronounces the shimmering effect of that wood. Gonna look good I think.

Today, I am cutting up my border pieces from a board of bubinga I picked up at a wood store. It is going to take a while, as I am gluing it on to the fronts, one at a time using my brick clamps. I didn't want any nail holes in this front moulding. I'll also be spending a couple of days sanding these things. That veneer is thick and pretty rough.

What is your opinion of having a piece of moulding right on the peak of the doghouse roof, to kind of tie it all together? The industrials usually had a protective piece here. I would make it nice and pointy to match the angle.

Yes? No? Maybe?

Here's a couple pics so far. I am gluing the first piece of moulding, and the other is one top after sanding. The seam is hard to find:

[dragonfyr]

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On 5/3/2005 6:51:50 PM D-MAN wrote:

OOOOhhh! inlays or strips of ebony, thats a great idea! Now, THAT's truly AWESOME. Like a fine musical instrument, or a really fine piece of furniture.

This is making me drool... STOP IT!

DM----------------

Or perhaps Purpleheart to compliment the general coloring....

A nice Bubinga faceframe would be a wonderful finishing touch!

May I suggest rounding over the edges to minimize diffraction effects. Generally speaking, 'pointy' is 'bad'.

[cueman]

Yes, a bubinga faceframe is what it will have.

I am rounding off all of the outer edges. The inner edges I am not going to round. At least I haven't yet. I just ran all the strips through the router table to put a rounded edge on them. I will wait until I have one completed, then decide whether or not to do any more rounding of edges.

[Dylanl]

From the veneering project I did on my Klipschorns I used contact cement and it worked great. I did however use backed Teak veneer. I was told by a finish carpenter to never use contact cement on raw veneer because some hard wood can reject the glue because of oils over time. This can also happen on wood backed if there is a drastic temperature change. One more thing that contact cement can do is actually warp your substrate. Just keep a good eye on your speakers over the next few months to make sure there is no creep.

[cueman]

I'll do that, although there is probably nothing I can do if it happens right?

Maybe I should sell them quick:)

[Dylanl]

I think you probably have seen the worst that is going to happen. Talk about bad moves, when I did my project I laid the Khorn top section down so that the veneer was laying on a table. I started to sand the bottom only to find that somehow a few small pebbles had made their way onto the table top. These then embedded themselves into the veneer and scratched my just completed top surface. It took lot of hot water and elbow grease to raise the grain and sand out the 3-4 scratches. So take comfort in that you are not alone and just think how good you will be when go to do another set.

In the end isn't it a fun project? I enjoyed all 20-25 Hrs. I put into mine. Just another though: If you are using hardwood you might want to try WATCO teak oil. It works great and just brings out the woods natural beauty.

[Dylanl]

If you are interested here is a picture of the Teak with the WATCO finish.

I sold these to a fellow forum member. I still miss the way they look. Not as exotic as yours but somewhat classy. Teak, Rosewood & Mahogany were a rare Klipsch option in the 70's.

[psg]

Dylanl, those are simply fantastic! Very classy indeed! I love 'em!

Klipschorn are just about the only speaker that looks like a fantastic piece of furniture...

[colterphoto1]

Teak is what I plan on using for my 5 Cornwall system. I think it's much more handsome than walnut, but still classic and original.

Michael

[Dylanl]

Thanks guys. I just wanted others to see that the wood just with a sort of a sealing oil alone can be quite stunning. I think you will also like the Teak for your cornwalls.

[cueman]

Here's a sneak preview after one coat of clear satin poly on the bubinga:

[Fish]

Outstanding!

[PrestonTom]

Oh my god, those are absolutely beautiful....

I am going to be up all night wondering if I can do something like that to my K-Horns. I am supposed to be thinking about installing new kitchen cabinets. You have got me all turned around ....

Enjoy, they look beautiful,

-Tom

[colterphoto1]

they look.... electric!

Michael

[colterphoto1]

it was so good I said it twice- sorry.

Michael

[Olorin]

Wow.