New Table Good News/Bad News and Need set up help

[rplace]

Well if you have been following my love affair with GaryMDs sound and the subsequent postings about what table to buy you already know I was originally going to go low budget/used just to make sure I was interested. Then I was thinking silly to buy and upgrade in a few months so I convinced myself to jump all the way in and get a new VPI Scout. Things change quickly around my house (the scout is coming but later rather then sooner). Next up was a used Planar 3 or P3that started lots of fun on the forum. I settled on an almost new, very low uses MMF-5. It arrived yesterdaythat is the good news I suppose

Bad news is the power cord did not make the trip. Hopefully that will be resolved shortly.

The real point of the post is to ask what the hell am I doing wrong on the setup? Alignment of the cartridge was done with the supplied alignment protractor. Pretty straight forward instructions on zeroing in the arm. I think I am good there. Next comes the tracking forcegood I think. Last step in the instructions is the anti-skate. It is the fishing line with weight variety. As soon as I hook that up the arm drifts up and over to the right so much that it clears the arm rest and continues past it.

So I remove the weight, zero the arm, set the tracking force, attach the anti-skate weight and same thing. I must have done this 5 times all with the same result. If I were to move the counter weight forward I could get it to float in place I think, but then I would have way to much weight on the cartridge I am afraid.

Any MMF-5 or similar users out there have the same problem? Am I doing something drastically wrong before I get to the anti-skate part of the set up?

Did a quick search for TT Setup, Table setup, table set up, turntable set up, etc.no luck.

Please help.

Thanks, Rich

[maxg]

I think that table comes with the project 9 arm:

Well first things first. Does your setup look like the one in the picture?

Note the point that the swinging counterweight attaches. You might be attaching it somewhere else?

If you are setting it up correctly the implication is that you might not need it at all. I ran a modded 9 for years that never needed the counterweight - so try playing the thing without.

Of course the best way to answer the above is with a setup record. These have really tiny grooves on them that show any tendency the arm has to move either towards the center or away from it.

The Project arm has 3 grooves on it for different settings of anti-skate. Usually you just set it in the middle and it works for most cartridge setups. Yours may well work with a lower setting, or, as I said, with none at all.

[rplace]

Max, yes mine looks just like that. I have played with it in the 3 different locations, but pretty much same result. I do have a test record...but until I get the power cord I was just concentrating on the set up. Thanks for the advice on non-use. I figured I needed it.

[LarryC]

Did you level the TT? A rightward slope that might be hard to see could cause it. You need to have a short level to check the levelness, both right-left and front-back, of the plinth, platter, and TT support.

Larry

[fini]

I've got the same issue with my SME 3009. Makes it a tad difficult to cue-up particular tracks.

[Audio Flynn]

Did you level the TT? A rightward slope that might be hard to see could cause it. You need to have a short level to check the levelness, both right-left and front-back, of the plinth, platter, and TT support.

+++

I take the most time with this.

[garymd]

Rich,

Is it a standard power cord? If it is, I have a few extras and you're welcome to borrow one.

[rplace]

Thanks for all the quick replies. The TT has a built in level the round type where you get the bubble in the center (spirit level???) anyway, that is in fact in the middle. I did not take a conventional level and put it front to back and side to side. I figured the round one would work fine. Should I try to level it a different way.

Gary, the power cord says 16volts 50 or 500 something. I am not in front of it now. It is not the standard type for computer or the standard two hole job you see on a lot of A/V equipment. This is more the type with small round fitting. I am guessing there is some sort of brick in the cord itself or a big block where it plugs in because the part that attaches to the TT itself is so small. Bummed me out to say the least that I don't have it. It is going to be a quiet weekend

[LarryC]

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I did not take a conventional level and put it front to back and side to side. I figured the round one would work fine. Should I try to level it a different way.

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Yes. As I described, and you do above. I don't trust the little round ones.

[NOSValves]

Those bubble levels built into the MMF series tables are renowned for being way off at the very least check it with a known good level.

Craig

[3dzapper]

I think Max nailed this one. If the arm does not drift toward the center when "floating" balanced, you most likely can put the weight away in a safe place. That is what I have done on my arm although a different manufacturer. It tracks the inner groves of my test record perfectly.

Rick

[ShapeShifter]

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On 5/19/2005 10:16:12 AM NOSValves wrote:

Those bubble levels built into the MMF series tables are renowned for being way off at the very least check it with a known good level.

Craig

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The one on my MMF-7 sure wasn't accurate. Pick up a nice one from a hardware or discount store.

[rplace]

I must have done something good in another life...surely not this one.

Just talked to the seller of my MMF-5. He was so upset about leaving out the power cord that he ran home, got it back to work, called FedEx and even though they have picked up for the day they are coming back...he is shipping NDA. So, I should have power by tomorrow afternoon! I am starting to think most audio people are decent human beings. How do we get the rest of the general population to convert?

Now for that drifting arm...

I'll get a real level out and start there.

Thanks guys!!!

[RickB]

I have the MMF-7 but it might be about the same. My arm did the same thing the first time I set it up, the instructions weren't the clearest I've ever read.

When setting tracking force you have to hold the counterweight and turn the numbered tracking force scale to 0 and make sure arm is still floating parallel.

Then return arm to arm rest.

Now turn the counterweight counterclockwise to 1.75g (on mine).

Make sure you turn the counterweight and not the numbered tracking force scale on that step. That's where I messed up the first time.

[garymd]

I seriously doubt the leveling has anything to do with it. I check mine periodically and sometimes it's off. It certainly wouldn't make your arm drift unless the tables almost sideways.

Sounds like Rick may be on to something. Bill Tillman had the exact same problem setting up his MMF-7.

[rplace]

Dooooh, RickB you da man! I was in fact turning just the numbered wheel in the 2nd step and not the counter weight. The way the instructions read if you have to hold the counterweight to zero it I would think turning the wheel with out holding the counterweight would have some effect.

Rookie mistake...thanks a ton. Separate level check will help too I am sure.

[thebes]

Test Record? What a marvelous idea. Where do I get me one and what do they cost?

[ben.]

This is what I use. Works great for me, but I don't try to get my rig to track the torture tests. I've been warned that it can lead to excessive anti-skate (or in my case with the bias-less Scout) excessively high VTF.

I bought my Scout from the US distributor listed on the page. Bill is a straight shooter and easy to deal with. Let him know I sent you (Ben Clarke) if you contact him, and he may do a little better on price, but I don't know how much there is to play with on something like this.

[3dzapper]

Here is a "review" of the HFNRR Test Record.

It is available from amusicdirect.com.

Rick