DoubleJ Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Hi: I'm looking for a case for my Scott 299c. They do come up on eBay and Audiogon, but it doesn't happen very often. So, if anyone has one for sale or knows where I can find one, please e-mail or PM me. Thanks in advance for your help. JJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Wood or the metal ones that look like brownish leather? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleJ Posted February 2, 2006 Author Share Posted February 2, 2006 Not used to having choices!!![] Wood is preferred, but metal will work. Thanks, Rplace. JJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.4knee Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 I'm looking for one for my 299B as well. Wood would be preferred choice. If anyone comes across one please let me know as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Hey guys, if you don't need OEM, send a PM or email to arfz28 of this Forum. He makes some really nice custom hardwood cases for all the Scott amps at very reasonable prices. Plus he's a great guy to deal with. He made me one for both my 299 and 272 when I had them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleJ Posted February 2, 2006 Author Share Posted February 2, 2006 Thanks for the info, Tom!!! JJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rplace Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Check out this auction http://cgi.ebay.com/HH-SCOTT-CUSTOM-MADE-OAK-TUBE-AMP-CABINET-CASE_W0QQitemZ5860708039QQcategoryZ50593QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I bought mine from this seller a while back. Might be the same person Piranha mentioned since "arf" is in his ebay id. He was great to work with. He typically has oak for auctions with reserve or from time to time BIN at 75. Auctions typically end up around 75 anyway. I wanted a Walnut one to match all my Heritage speakers. He built me one in a few weeks and shipped it. I have been very happy with it. If you want an oak or different wood case I would look him up. I would not hesitate to do business with him again. The cabinet maker told me most of the scotts use the same cabinet. 222, 299, LK, etc. I'm thinking about selling my 222C/lk-48 that has had the royal treatment from NOSValves (Craig). It also has a brand spanking new output transformer (expensive and about the only thing that fails on these babies). It was back to Craig in December for a check up, installation of the transformer and had him add the easy bias mod, the one mod it did not already have. I have my original metal case that looks like brown leather. I think it has some gold leaf design on it. At any rate it is original. I also have the Walnut case that was built for me. Looks just like the auction except darker walnut wood. I'd be interested in selling either case if somebody is looking for the original or walnut. Probably best to sell the walnut one and keep the original one with my...but I am open to ideas. $50 for the walnut one + shipping. I have no idea what the original case is worth. If there is any interest in the Scott + both cases I will let it all go for $500. Between the purchase of the Scott, the work and the case I have over $700 in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleJ Posted February 2, 2006 Author Share Posted February 2, 2006 Rplace: You have mail. JJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 I can't find the guys name anymore (I think he's French), but he sold a wood kit with a metal top plate that slid in. This is what I bought for around $50. You stain the wood to your liking, and you can still get to the tubes by sliding the top plate out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny dB Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Mike, I remember those cases; wasn't he from Canada. I didn't really like the looks of the mesh. Piranha, what are you running those 'scalas with if you sold the 272?? I too have one of arf's wood cases for my 272. I think I have some cases that fit the 299. I have a couple of 99Ds w/ cases I think they fit the 299. I'll look when I get home tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 I think you're right... agree about the mesh, but still looks better than without a case. This will be going into my garage to power my Heresy's, and I think the case will help some with keeping the dust out. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebes Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 I've got a beat-up old metal case you are welcome to but it's a real shame to hide that nice tube layout behind that crappy tin. If you are even moderatly handy you can build an acrylic case cover for it that will show off the tubes and protect little fingers from getting burned. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlieboy Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 thebes, That's sweet. I wanted to do this for a small project. I wanted to make a 3 sided lid for a phono stage I have. I have thin plexiglass around. Question is how do you cut the stuff without it crackling into pieces? Maybe you can help me out. Thanks. Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebes Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 When I first started doing this I had at least two threads in Updates and Modifications with all sorts of feedback from folks and further advice. With the Search function basically kaput I, of course, can't find them. I did however find my initial post inside my own computer and so here it is. Might sound more complicated than it is, but all-in-all pretty simple and not a lto of time: Ok, as promised heres pic of the finished acrylic case cover for my Scott 299. As previously discussed in this Section my first attempt was a dismal failure, but thanks to some folks here (especially Michael), a handbook, and some patience, this one turned out pretty good. For those of you who would like to do something similar heres some pointers: Use at least ¼ inch thick stock and leave the protective plastic on until the final steps. If its going to be used for a tube amp lift the height of the top of the case at least a couple of inches so heat wont warp the acrylic (it has a 180 to 200 degree melting point) If you can use the scoring method it will give you cleaner breaks then sawing. To do this go to Home Depot buy a fixed blade utility knife and a plastic scoring blade (its the one with a funny looking hook on it. Cost for both is about $6 or $7.Measure, draw your cut line and place a ruler or any other straight piece of metal or wood next to the cut line. Very lightly score the plastic protective wrap. Draw the edging blade towards you very carefully. Continue slowly to score the plastic until you have a deep groove-at least a dozen times. Place the piece with the cut line directly over a broom handle or a ¾ inch wooden dowel. Place hand pressure on both sides until it snaps apart. This method will work for parts down to about two inches in width. If youre going to saw the acrylic a table saw is the best way to go. What is very important is to use a blade with a lot of teeth in it. This prevents splitting and cracking. The one I have has 34 teeth and 40 teeth are recommended. Cut at an even pace but not too slowly or you will melt some of the plastic Next step is to use a scrapper or sanding to even the cut lines and eliminate most of the saw blade parts. At this point if you are going to put air holes or vents in the top piece, do it before you glue. For holes I designed a template using some graph paper and a simple protractor. Tape to top of plastic and drill. When drilling you need to clamp the piece and go fairly slowly, especially when you are about to break through. Use a bit designed for plastics. Too much pressure and you will chip the backside of the hole. If youve got a router this is probably a much simpler process. If youre using a hand drill practice quite a bit before you do this. Now we get to glue it together and for this you should make some specialty purchases. What you want is Weld On #3 acrylic glue which is water soluble for easy clean up. You also need a small squeeze bottle with a very fine needle on the end of it. Using these tools do a practice gluing before the final gluing. Ok, carefully remove the plastic covering and then pull a drawer out of a dresser or cabinet. Tightly run some masking tape down a right angle seam at the bottom of the drawer and this will give you a perfect edge for aligning the pieces. Do a dry run and check for gaps between the pieces and scrape and sand to get the pieces as even as possible. This type of glue acts by osmosis and when applied slides in between the pieces to create a finished seam. Only do one edge at a time. Lay the biggest piece in the drawer up against the taped edge. Place a shorter piece on top and double check the alignment. Run the syringe carefully down the seam from the inside of the seam. You will see the seam fill with the glue. Immediately go back over the parts where the color in the gap is lighter. These are parts that are not fully filled. Wait 10 minutes and glue another piece until your done. Pour leftover glue back into can and wash out squeeze bottle and syringe right away. Finally flaming. Flaming removes all the dullness from the cut edges and restores the plastics transparency. If youve got a plastics shop in the area take it to them. They use a clean burning torch (hydrogen/oxygen). If youre going to use a handheld propane torch you want to let it burn for a minute or two and then turn it down about as low as it will go. Make one, and only one, pass down the edge at 3 to 4inches a second, and then let it cool. If it needs more work, make another pass after its cool. If you make several passes at once the finished product will have bubbles and runs in it. Practice this first on some scrap. Clean with soap and water, dry and youre done. Oh, dont use ammoniated cleaners it will turn the acrylic yellow over time. If you dont have a plastics shop in your town one good online source is www.craftics.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfz28 Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Hi Guys, I make the scott cabinets that quite a few people on the forum have bought (Thanks guys) and I also sell them on ebay also. I am from Missouri, I might have some french in me thow. LOL. Doublej and J.4knee I have one walnut cabinet ready too go a a couple of oak cabinets also. Here is a picture of the walnut cabinet. Its a beauty. I'll get intouch with you two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshnich Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 I can say from experience that these are great cases. Great workmanship and well designed. I also had one from the french guy and just tossed it after I got the one from arfz. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Check out this auction http://cgi.ebay.com/HH-SCOTT-CUSTOM-MADE-OAK-TUBE-AMP-CABINET-CASE_W0QQitemZ5860708039QQcategoryZ50593QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I bought mine from this seller a while back. Might be the same person Piranha mentioned since "arf" is in his ebay id. He was great to work with. He typically has oak for auctions with reserve or from time to time BIN at 75. Auctions typically end up around 75 anyway. I wanted a Walnut one to match all my Heritage speakers. He built me one in a few weeks and shipped it. I have been very happy with it. If you want an oak or different wood case I would look him up. I would not hesitate to do business with him again. The cabinet maker told me most of the scotts use the same cabinet. 222, 299, LK, etc. Yep, that's him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piranha Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Piranha, what are you running those 'scalas with if you sold the 272?? Sold both the Scott 299 and 272, and also the La Scala's. I am currently powering my Cornwall's with a pair of VRD's and a Blueberry Xtreme. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfz28 Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Joshnich, for some reason I thought that guy that also makes scott cabinets was from Canada and not France, but I could be wrong, I think I found a link too his websight not for sure though. http://www.tubeaudio.ca/Cabinets/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshnich Posted February 3, 2006 Share Posted February 3, 2006 arfz28, Yeah that's him. You are right, he is Canadian. But hehas a french name if I remember correctly. His cases are functional but are no where near the ones that you build. Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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