wwh Posted March 2, 2006 Share Posted March 2, 2006 Greetings! I've been lurking here for a while, and recently acquired a set of 1981 type KCBR Klipschorns. Unfortunately, one of these sat on a damp carpet for a few months and mold has grown on the bottom and wicked about 1/4" up the side and front panels. I've cleaned the moldy wood with a strong bleach solution. It is currently drying, and it looks like the structure is still sound, but the plywood has separated slightly on the sides. How simple do you think it would be to replace the bottom panel? It is obviously screwed together and also glued. I don't see any water damage inside (through the woofer access panel), but very little of the top of the bottom board is visible from in there. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malcolm Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 I don't think there are any screws except those that hold the back panel, woofer, squawker horn, tweeter, and crossover in place. The cabinet is nailed and glued. You'll have to cut out the panel, then fabricate and fit a new panel, then match the finish. It might be faster, easier and better to build a new cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunburnwilly Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Seeing as you are in Denver I'm sure there are a few good cabinet makers around you . I'm sure one could fabricate and replace the bottoms . This would keep most of the originality intact . This is the route I would take . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyholiday Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 You'll need to post pics of the damage, an the pro's around here will give you advice ,an estimations, use the file attachment browse button, on your reply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwh Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 Attached are the following pictures: bottom - overall view of the bottom. lt_side - Left side if the speaker was upright (side with the woofer access door). This is the panel that has the most extensive damage. The stain is about 1.25" wide. rt_side - Right side detail. inside_lt_bottom - inside view of the bottom board, front corner, from the woofer access hole. inside_rt_bottom - inside view of the bottom board, front corner, from the woofer access hole. The bottom board feels solid now that it is dry. The big problem is the right side board -- the damaged section is sort of "spongy." Bottom: Left side: Right side: Left front corner, from inside: Right front corner, from inside: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilbert Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 That looks like pretty significant water damage. The veneer is gone along the bottom. To get it looking the way it should, you will need to reveneer the speakers, at least that's my opinion, I'm no expert, but I've refinished close to a dozen heritage speakers, Khorns included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Well if the plywood is not seperating i would just sand and fill cracks and voids then tighten the screws let dry for awhile the re-veneer the fronts.Might try find some type of sealer to put on the bottom edges to seal them up cant really tell from pics how bad it is but looks like just got wet then mold started,,,if it was wet a long time the plywood would have seperated.That area you took pics of inside had air leaks on mine i poured glue in there and then sealed all the joints with silicone.. mine are air tight now its an easy test to check if you want to make sure yours are air tight.Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Those look like Katrina K-Horns. With the chunk of veneer gone, you have a real problem. I've heard of people mixing birch sawdust into wood putty in order to make puttied areas take a stain that reasonably matches. Before going the hard route of a complete re-veneer, you might see if you can do this first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwh Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 Fortunately, these aren't from New Orleans -- I bought them from a good friend and neighbor who, as we found out when we moved them, has a bit of a plumbing problem... I had planned to put a trim strip along the front anyway, so for cosmetic reasons, I could get one wide enough to cover the stained area. I'll try the wood filler / glue on the bottom first, for structural integrity. Cosmetics don't matter there anyway. Thanks for the advice. - Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Hey, Bill, I thought your inquiry dealt more with cosmetics on the fronts and sides. If you put that toe-kick on there, that would do it the easy way. Good idea. What is the structural problem with the bottoms that makes you need to do something there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 There is a product for boats that may help you . http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/find;a;1;ID;;eclDrill;788 Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwh Posted March 3, 2006 Author Share Posted March 3, 2006 The wood surrounding the screws on the left side panel that hold it to the bottom panel is rather soft. My concern is essentially acoustic -- there are two other baffles above the bottom panel that are undamaged that form the actual horn, but it looks like the bottom panel itself contains the woofer's back chamber. So I wouldn't want leakage around the bottom board. I think I can address that by pouring glue into the small gap, as was suggested, then sanding the whole thing and painting it with primer. I was just looking for additional ideas / warnings / etc. - Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacksonbart Posted March 3, 2006 Share Posted March 3, 2006 Ouch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 "I've heard of people mixing birch sawdust into wood putty in order to make puttied areas take a stain that reasonably matches." When I was doing hardwood floors, we mixed sawdust from the installed floor with stuff called wood doe to fill knotholes, cracks, etc...etc... We would use the sawdust from the edger after sanding with 120 grit discs, the dust has to be rather fine. You can fill pretty good sized holes with the mixed wood doe. It does shrink, so you to go over the hole a few times until it is full and won't settle anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3dzapper Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Here is another product for mold, rot and delamination: http://www.rotdoctor.com/index.html Mike, They carry a sawdust "flour" for mixing with the resin. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnyholiday Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Epoxy an/or steal{ L}shaped edging, bring the cab back to strength, an then a pedestal/kick board to hide reinforcing work, if bottom plate is shabby incorporate, a reinforcing bottom plate in pedestal,an fasten ,in design a triangular coaster ,which would have saved it in the first place,see kick in pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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