Coytee Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Oops, my bad... somehow I read Seti to be Coytee... disregard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicago_Pete Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Nuf said, I certainly wouldn't sell mine for any less. To buy what? Had the reissue 275, not close IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 Seti, I'm pretty sure that you didn't get your pair for $1300 or less? Just guessing on my part. I think you did the wise thing. You have piece of mind knowing that they have been completely checked and ready for service. Pete Nope it was a little more but not much. They were not mint but they look great and sound wonderful. If it wasn't for the warranty and knowing who worked on it I wouldn't have spent that much on vintage amps. It was actually a toss up between the Cayin A88T, Quad II Forty, or the MC30s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capo72 Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 What do the MC-30's have that the MC-40's don't have, or have more of? This is coming from someone who has only heard the MC-275. Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 What do the MC-30's have that the MC-40's don't have, or have more of? This is coming from someone who has only heard the MC-275. Jeremy 10 Sorry couldn't resist. I went with the MC30s since my Belles are so efficient and 30wpc is what I consider high wattage LOL. If you don't get your question answered here there is a McIntosh specific forum over at audio karma http://audiokarma.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chicago_Pete Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 What do the MC-30's have that the MC-40's don't have, or have more of? This is coming from someone who has only heard the MC-275. Jeremy I think most prefer them because of being tube rectified over the solid state rectifier. Do I know what I'm talking about? Not a clue, read it somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audible Nectar Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 OK, I'll throw my two cents in here..... First of all, one might have an idea where one is going with the overall project before deciding on a specific pair of MC-30's. If you are buying them to USE them, you are likely going to recap these before such use. In that case, you are buying TRANNIES/CIRCUIT BOARDS/CHROME and little else. The all original caps aren't paramount, unless you specifically want them that way for collectable reasons, or do your own benchwork and can service and replace them if they fail, and like the sound of original caps. If you aren't both of the aforementioned, there is no reason to pay additional value for all original capped amps (and all original caps does increase collector value/sales price). Most here would recommend that a Klipscher have these amps recapped for best reliability and overall clean sound, because the originals are 50+ years old and tend to not work properly, unless these amps have had regular recent use. If they have sat in storage for an extended period of time, some of these caps may not "wake up" and stay working for long. How one deals with the cap choices/rebuild is a personal choice, but the "all original" isn't necessarily a desireable item. It depends on the user. I had my first pair rebuilt - and will have a second pair rebuilt as well. The classic car analogy is appropriate: The question is whether to keep more original and potentially less "usable"/intent of use but higher collector value, or to repart to be better performing in actual regular use. If one plans to "gut them" and recap, the ideal MC-30 source amps would be a pair with good trannies and chrome and alike in terms of circuit (they DO vary - there are four main "schematics" and about 10-11 slight variations overall schematically. For this reason, an ideal pair will have identical trannies (same model # on the trannies) with identical circuits. Consecutives solve this problem, but they need not be as long as they are close enough to be schematically identical in every respect, and can be reparted to be absolutely electrically identical, and for best sonics (which can be a matter of taste). If you find a pair of MC-30s with good chrome that have been recapped with non original caps, those are often the ones to "hit on", because the collectors will stay away, and this tends to reduce the value of the amps - you'll get them for less $$$. You can source them for less $$$ then recap to your preferences. If these amps shown here were MINT, they would be worth over 3K (being consecutives). The evidence of oxidation and the poor background make it difficult to justify the price - it is hard to see what condition these amps are in due to the purple felt background. It is worth mentioning that the pre-conceived notions of "value" expressed in this thread are a bit "outdated" - mint MC-30 pairs draw 3K pretty quick these days. 2K for a decent pair (like the ones shown in this auction) is about right. The $1100 pair told of in this thread? That's a HELLUVA deal, and not representative of current MC-30 prices. Rusty pairs get $1100 these days - they are worth it in parts alone (trannies by themselves are worth this). So, as to Roland's question about whether or not these amps are worth it, I would say no at $2600, and would ask what precisely is desired in reference to long term ownership: Do you want original/collectable or amps to have rebuilt? $2600 should yield better examples, IMO. "Consecutives" aren't such a big deal without GOOD chrome. Better pics might tell us more, but I'm not liking what I see so far. On the MC-30 vs. the other Macs.... The primary "desireables" of the MC 30 lie in it's circuit and the 6L6. The tube rectification serves to "sweeten" the presentation vs. the 240, and especially when using Tele smooth 12AX7 in both slots imparts a magic in the midrange that makes performances seem - alive. This amplifier is ideal for acoustic instruments and where SET might otherwise be desired, and handles about 85% of electric/rock material very well (it's not for metal listening folk). For jazz, acoustic, and "easy" stuff they are SUPERB. It is a bit "loose" in the bass response on bass heavy/demanding material, but is made better when properly tuned on the bench with a scope. The MC-60 will bring better bass response, but uses the KT88 and is therefore a bit different animal. The MC240 is also improved in the bass response perhaps at some cost in midrange sweetness (this is solid state rectified). When properly tweaked/tubed, the midrange performance and overall power of the MC-30 is such to forgive the slight deficiencies in bass tightness. At times, that "loose" nature is actually endearing.....as in "comfortable". I find the mids to be so good as to own two pairs, because mids that good in any other amp is EXPENSIVE. Best mids available even at 3K. They are STILL worth it. But I will say, they are NOT for everyone. They are like the Grateful Dead, and licorice: Not everybody likes those, but those who like them, REALLY like them. It's all about the midrange with the MC-30. UNIQUE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erik Mandaville Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 ", I personally preferred the sound of the SE-OTL amps over them except for the very unfortunate reality that the SE-OTL amps only had 4 wpc available to me" I agree with you very much on this account -- not the comparison to the MC-30s, but the thought that they are great amps. I pair came up recently nearby (one of which I was very familiar with.....actually I got to use and work on both of them and knew they were in good shape), but I just couldn't do it at the time. The price was very fair, too. Maybe one day. If there is one pair of amps I would like to have sometime, it would be those Transcendent SE OTLs. The T-16 was a great stereo amp as well. Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben. Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 I got mine a couple years ago. They're not too pretty, but I'm not concerned with that. I appreciate the beauty of a pristine Mc of that era; the design aesthetic suits me. For me, the gear serves the music. If I wasn't relatively sure I'd keep these for a long time when I bought them, I'd have been more concerned with looks in the interest of resale value. I take care of my stuff but I'm not put off by "blems" if it's a good deal. It comes down to what matters to you and how much it's worth to you. Audiogon seems to be a better source than ebay. I got mine for $900 shipped with all good tubes, including some <>. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshnich Posted January 31, 2007 Share Posted January 31, 2007 I have somewhat of an off topic question - although it does involve Mc tube amps. We have all seen the examples of vintage McIntosh tube amps whether they be MC 30s or MC 40s or MC 240s or MC225s that have horribly pitted chrome. I know what you have to do to fix that but I am wondering what you need to do to prevent it! I have a pair of near mint MC225s and I want to do everything I can to make sure that they dont pit. Also what do you folks use to clean them without removing the decals. I just dust with a microfiber towel. Other suggestions would be welcome. Some time ago, I posted this same question about pitting over on the Mcintosh forum at audiokarma and didnt get an answer! Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Roland Posted February 1, 2007 Author Share Posted February 1, 2007 Boy! Thanks guys, one can REALLY get an education on this forum. I would be looking to buy these for use...listening, not as a collector obsessed with sequential serial numbers (althought that'd be nice!) I'd have to have them rebuilt and stable. I will check in with the McIntosh upgraders mentioned George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Songer Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I have somewhat of an off topic question - although it does involve Mc tube amps. We have all seen the examples of vintage McIntosh tube amps whether they be MC 30s or MC 40s or MC 240s or MC225s that have horribly pitted chrome. I know what you have to do to fix that but I am wondering what you need to do to prevent it! I have a pair of near mint MC225s and I want to do everything I can to make sure that they dont pit. Also what do you folks use to clean them without removing the decals. I just dust with a microfiber towel. Other suggestions would be welcome. Some time ago, I posted this same question about pitting over on the Mcintosh forum at audiokarma and didnt get an answer! Josh Dusting with the microfiber towel sounds good to me. You might want to polish a bit with Wenol once a year--but don't rub too hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOSValves Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 I have somewhat of an off topic question - although it does involve Mc tube amps. We have all seen the examples of vintage McIntosh tube amps whether they be MC 30s or MC 40s or MC 240s or MC225s that have horribly pitted chrome. I know what you have to do to fix that but I am wondering what you need to do to prevent it! I have a pair of near mint MC225s and I want to do everything I can to make sure that they dont pit. Also what do you folks use to clean them without removing the decals. I just dust with a microfiber towel. Other suggestions would be welcome. Some time ago, I posted this same question about pitting over on the Mcintosh forum at audiokarma and didnt get an answer! Josh Josh, Chrome is Chrome polish the Mac chassis just like you would an classic chrome car bumper and above all keep them clean. Dust is a way for moisture to form and eventually rust which is what the pitting really is. Most all the pitting that you find on Chrome audio gear occurs while dormant and in storage in most audio systems if you keep it dusted your not going to see any rust forming unless your near salt water. Always use none abrasive chrome polish so not to damage your stenciling and the polish will leave a nice protective coat on your chrome. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Dust is a way for moisture to form and eventually rust which is what the pitting really is. Very interesting point about dust being a way for moisture to form. I would have never thought of that angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fini Posted February 1, 2007 Share Posted February 1, 2007 Well there goes my theory that dust forms a protective coating... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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