BusaDude

Budget? You mean we should limit what we spend on audio related endeavors? Back to your question... The difference in total output between a 60 wpc AVR/amp and a 120 wpc AVR/amp is 3 decibels. If you double the power again (240 wpc) then you get another 3 dB in potential output (if the speakers can handle it). The difference between 100 wpc and 120 wpc is less than 1 dB, meaning you wouldn't likely hear it. If you're going the AVR route, then make sure you get the features, inputs, etc. you want and not be too concerned if one has 10-20 wpc more or less than the other. Personally I'd stay in the $500 and up range as you'll generally get all the basic bases covered. That particular Pioneer receiver does seem to have most of the basic "bells and whistles"... But, it DOES NOT have separate pre-amp input jacks. So you wouldn't be able to add an outboard amp(s) in the future. So if you wanted more power, you'd have to move to separates (amp & pre-amp) or buy another, higher powered, AVR.

You're much more likely to damage a speaker (usually the tweeter) by overdriving a low powered amp into clipping... Rather than pushing it past its thermal limits with a high powered amp. And with most Klipsch speakers it will be ridiculously loud in either case before it happens. Though if you don't listen to music/movies at very high SPL's, then it really won't matter. But if you're fond of turning it up on occassion then it's better to have a bit too much than not enough. 135 wpc or higher will safely power the 280's to ear splitting levels. So you shouldn't have any problems. Trying to do the same thing with a 30 wpc amp or budget AVR is more likely to cause a problem.

The 17 is for the week of the year, if I'm remembering correctly. The 543 is simply the serial number for that particular speaker. And on Khorn's there should be individual serial numbers for each bass bin and for the top hats. So each pair should have 4 sequential numbers. The WO is the finish... Walnut Oiled. For a pair of Walnut Oiled in great condition, that price is fair. Though the crossovers are probably in need of a refresh. You might take that cost into account if you want them to sound "as good as new". http://www.critesspeakers.com/prices-crossover_repair_kit.html

I emailed Oppo a few weeks ago, because of the same reason (future proofing, or close to it). I asked about their 4K player plans and was told they plan to have something out this fall in the same price range as their current players. So I figured it would be worth it to wait and get a player from them, and I'd be good to go for the foreseeable future... mainly because my next upgrade (video wise), if I could make it happen, would be to a 4K projector. But that would still be a few years away. So in the meantime I'd have every disc based format covered. And they answered my email in less than 2 hours. Don't know any other company (except for SVS) that replies that quickly.

If you are trying to match a center channel to a pair of Forte I, then the best thing you can put there is another Forte I. The Academy is the better match to the Forte I and Chorus I. KLF-C7 is closest to the Forte II and Chorus II, but a Quartet or another Forte II is best. The Academy and KLF-C7 both have 8" woofers. The RC-7 is a great center, but it's from a completely different and much newer model line. Get what sounds best to your ears in your room.

The KLF-20's are a great speaker... Can't go wrong with them. If the KLF-10 is even ½ as good, buy them and continue looking FOR a pair of the KLF-20/30.

All of those frequency graphs look fine... The 5 channels' response played through Speaker 1 looks just like the 5 channels' response through Speaker 2. Meaning each amp channel is generating the same frequency response through each speaker. The woofer differences are within about 0.4 dB or less. And I don't see the 3dB difference at 70Hz you originally measured,or 3dB difference anywhere else. The bigger differences way down low are replicated in each speaker. That's probably the room. The only real difference being at the upper end above 13KHz... and you said that was just in the surround channels and it looks like it's just 1 dB. That could be a difference in the amp due to the power supply. But I bet you can't hear it. I don't think there's anything wrong with your AVR's amp section or channel levels. Or anything that would be outside of normal variances.

I can't see (from your photos) what model speaker those are... but if they're the new Reference Premier series, the woofers don't cross over to the horn until 1700Hz-1800Hz. Anything below that is mostly output from the woofers. And if the mic is pointed at the horn while the test tone is sweeping through 100 Hz to 1000 Hz, you're going to see room resonances in your graph. Above about 1500hz, it looks like all the responses overlay one another to the point there would be no issues. From your previous graph of the woofers lower test tones, with the close mic'd response, it looks very close as well (no issues)... though it appears you were still measuring both speakers as the graph has "SP1" and "SP2" on it. Measure just ONE speaker... woofer from 40 Hz to 2000 Hz (close mic'd)... and horn from 2000 Hz on up. And do that with each of the 5 channels on your amp. That would show you if one channel of the amp has a level difference at a particular frequency. If all of those frequency responses overlay one another, then do the same thing with the other speaker. If you notice a difference, then it's the second speaker and not the amp.

I thought he was... I couldn't see the pictures of the multimeter earlier.

Did you measure the decibel level at those values? In your original post, there was a 3 dB difference between the channels. To go from 84 dB to 87 dB would require a doubling of the input voltage. A 1 millivolt difference (assuming 8 ohms and constant amperage) wouldn't be enough to explain it, but 4 millivolts or more (in a 6 millivolt range) would be close to doubling the power. Though we're talking about the difference of a few thousandths of a watt. I'd still check the variance between all 5 channels to see if they are in the same range. If they are, and just that one channel is putting out more/less than the others, then you'd know the difference was the amp.

My meter goes from 2volts to 200m no 1v unfortunately.Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk I couldn't see the multimeter photos (I was on my phone) in the original post... it looks like you were getting 6 or 7 millivolts from your original measurements. Go back to the 200 m setting and you should be able to see what is going to the speaker. I suggest the close mic'd placement because, in this instance, you're not trying to get the frequency response of your speakers in your room. But, rather, trying to see the possible difference between the amp channels output. And at a few millivolts, getting the mic as close as possible to the woofer (less than an inch) will help eliminate your room's influence.

I moved it from that position. Pointed it upwards and applied the 90 degree calibration file in Room EQ Wizard. I put the mic a few inches away from the speakers and played a sweep from 40hz to 80hz and the results is what i get above. This is all without moving the mic. Yep same speaker and wire and a new wire also just to make sure.Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk Doing that you are going to get a combination of the speakers response and the room resonances at those frequencies. That could easily account for the variances you're seeing. Try it with the mic right in front of the woofer (1 inch or less), from 40 hz to 80 hz, with each amp channel and see what it looks like as a control as I mentioned above.

Assuming an 8 ohm load, 2.83 volts would be 1 watt into those speakers. That would be loud. Set it at 1 volt and try again.

Just to clarify... Going back to your original post... You're measuring 70 Hz, but the microphone is shown being pointed right at the horn??? There would be no sound coming out of the horn at that frequency. To measure 70 Hz, (in room, to help eliminate room resonances and variables) the microphone should be about an inch away (or closer) to the center of the woofer cone. Did you do that? Measuring a 70 Hz tone from right in front of the horn could easily account for the differences in sound level (at the higher frequencies shown in the graph). Because one speaker (at horn level) is probably closer to a wall or some other object in the room. As a control, have you also measured the voltages from all the other amp channels when playing test tones? Using the same speaker, without moving the microphone, and using the exact same piece of speaker wire? Take those 5 readings (for each channel) playing test tones with speaker 1... Then do the same with speaker 2. And make sure to put speaker 2 in the exact same position as speaker 1 (put some tape on the floor). And don't move the microphone at all.

That's a good question. I don't think anybody's ever asked that before, at least not that's I've ever seen. My left & right are a pair from 2002 with the AL-4 crossover and my center is from 1999 with the AL-3. If there's any difference (in pans across the front) during movies I can't hear it. I've also never put them side by side and played test tones through them... So it's possible. My guess though, is if the levels are matched, it would be very difficult to tell them apart.

I can wholeheartedly endorse the 5 LaScala system... Sounds great with music or movies. The surrounds are directly to the sides of my couch and my SVS sub is behind my couch (near field to MLP).

Many on here (including me) would like a pair of RB-75's. So keep them if at all possible... And if not, make sure you get top dollar for them.

Farther down, the ad says "$700 for the pair"...

Without seeing a picture of your room... I guess I can't picture how a difference of 4" or so across width/depth could make things go from okay to "looking funny"? And if most of your listening is music based, having a system tucked into a corner, is not going to lend itself to the best possible sound. Which is what you should be after versus whether some part of it is "looking funny". (just my opinion) In general, you're going to be better off buying the best speakers you can afford and going from there. And if they stick out into the room a few inches, so be it. So get the RP-250 (or 280) and you'll have a better speaker (compared to the bookshelf models) whether you move or not. You can then worry about what surrounds to get when/if you decide to make the jump to 5.1. Asking whether the RP-150/160 is too big, depends on how much room you have... I use a pair of LaScalas for surrounds, so it depends. And whether you place them as side surrounds or rear surrounds, you might be better off with the RP-240/250. The same goes for the sub... Save up and get the bigger model Klipsch, if that's what you really want. Instead of buying a smaller model as a short term fix, just to have a sub in the system. And as others have mentioned, SVS will provide you with a "bigger bang for the buck" compared to most all of the similarly priced Klipsch models. But if you really don't watch many movies, and a 5.1 system is an option for later on, then save the money and put it towards the larger floorstanding models. It won't make as big of a difference for most music listening... Unless you listen to a lot of bass heavy music (techno, EDM, RAP, etc).

Those look NICE...

You'll have to decide if you're willing to travel (and how far) and then start searching. Prices overall (for all Klipsch) seem to be creeping up lately. And prices on eBay are generally higher than what you'll find on Craigslist. Good luck with your search... KLF-30 specs https://web.archive.org/web/20120102162503/http://www.klipsch.com/klf-30

Location and condition will be a big factor in the price. But generally KLF-30's finished in Black Satin will be at the lower end, followed by the light and medium oak finishes with mahogany at the upper end. Overall I'd say a range from $600 for black satin on up to nearly $1000 for a perfect pair in mahogany. Keep your eyes open as they don't show up for sale very often. And those in good condition get snapped up relatively fast.

To quote Ibiza…."but they're from Denver" It was all I could do to not email and ask them how much marijuana they'd been smoking before they typed up that ad...

Simply type up a similar decree for her, barring the purchase of new shoes/clothes, spa days, manicure/pedicure, etc... And keep it close by. Next time she complains about an audio purchase, hand it to her and ask her to sign it.

That's more than double what they cost brand new, if they really were purchased in the early 80's...