Cal Blacksmith

If you are using somthing like a Dish DVR as a source, I am fairly sure it has an option for lip sync.

You can udate the software using a thumb drive if your PS3 isn't connected to the internet. http://us.playstation.com/support/systemupdates/ps3/index.htm The PS3 has had 3D for a while. Our main TV isn't 3D so I picked up the Sony Playstation 24" 3D display when it was $200 and the combo is great. I have watched a few movies and have a few games in 3D and love it. We bought our TV a little over a year ago and at that time I wasn't sold on 3D but since playing with the 24" monitior I like it. I am waiting for the glasses LES 3D to come along, then I can move our 60" to the bedroom to make way for a new TV. Then again, perhaps I will upgrade the projector in the HT before changing the TV, even WITH glasses []

I don't know about it being HOKEY (I did buy the Sony Playstation 3D display just for the 3D quality) but we have the same TV from Sharp that you do, we have had it for 14 months now and love it. I bought mine at Sams club for $1950 and now they are about $1399 and my personal feeling is that at that price it is a steal. I know this is a little out of the quoted spending price but I feel this set is an excelent value. YMMV!

I think you will find that AVRs are better in HT use than in 2 ch, at least that has been my findings. If it isn't working as a HT unit, well use as a 2ch is [*-)] But as they say, YMMV!

Time passes too quickly. I remember dealing with him, an honest and good man. Rest in Peace Rob.

I have lots of cables, coax, computer, stereo, video etc, I just roll them neetly, wrap the tag end around the coil and store in a plastic cab I have. A drawer for power cables and coax, a drawer for audio/video cables and a drawer for computer cables. I used to have them in multiple boxes etc and I never knew how many I really had until I combined them all into one storage unit [:S]

I have found that tube amplification into Fort'e speakes, when properly positioned, give you the punch in the gut anyway without fussing with multiple amps. YMMV!

Now the only difference is the shape of the plug. I have been using DVI to HDMI for a while from the computer to the screen and the audio carries through just as if I had HDMI to HDMI.

A strictly personal choice for me is I like Yamaha. Look at the specs that each unit has then keep the one that fits what you do, the best. YMMV!

I have been away for a few days. I forget where I bought my splitter but it was a bit of a PITA to get it working, it is a 2 way split and the outputs were not labled so I had to play with things to gt it working to find out which display it wanted to see first. After the hookup, the other display could be turned on and it worked. It sounds like your issues are different though and sorry that I could not offer any more help. Digital video is a pain as the equipment needs to handshake so that it "knows" you are not trying to record HD when you are not supposed to. I just went through this again as I had to tear my HT to pieces for work done in the room. On reassembly, I broke the HDMI output from the AVR while hooking back up the firehose of a cable that runs to the projector, a long run. $100 later after the AVR was repaired (used this one still sells for about $350 give or take a bit so it was worth repairing) I still had issues with things. After hooking up several displays and several sources and troubleshooting from the source out, I found my last HDMI calbe link to the AVR was bad, I had audio but no video, swapped in different cables (I have a lot of cheep HDMI cables like the ones you get when you buy a device) I found one that worked and I tossed the bad ones so they would not be used again. While this was all going on, all I could get from the system was "standard" def, on a 120" screen, it looks really bad, REALLY BAD! Again, digital video can be a real PITA!

LOL No doubt. It didn't take long to find any loose drywall. It's sporting a Dayton DVC 310-88 Pro media would be a lot better than the stock, under monior speakers on my pc! It is hard to get the same feeling without being there. If small computer speakers could make outstanding sound in a HT then Bose would make them.... wait, ER, nevermind [:S][:|][:$]

EXCELENT idea! It only needs to stop from gettng worse. I do have a pic but am a bit busy to post it at the moment, thanks!

Very nice! I could really feel that earth shaking bass and wide dynamics through my 1x2 PC speakers! [] Nice job though!

Just as a side note (I don't want to stop you from shopping for a new AVR!) but I have used a splitter before and it need to see the primary screen FIRST and once it did a hand shake with that screen (ONLY SECONDS on startup) it was OK to start the second screen. All was well and the same image was on both displays. If I failed to follow this procedure though, it would do as you described and the MCP caused the flashing and failure to connect that you speak of. I'm just trying to help, if your AVR really needs upgrading (or you are bitten to do so) nevermind.[:$]

I gave a half hearted search for this but things like work got in the way of my internet! As posted elsewhere, we had a flod of water through the house and while I did get some light vanier damge to the risers of my CW2s I can live with that but I just noticed last night that the grill of one speaker did it's job well and protected the woffer of my CW. There is a vertical rip through the fabric. I guess I really need to post pics but it is the coarse basket weave black fabirc. The vert tear extends through about 4 strands of the horizontial weave. It is not a real eysore as I have been looking at these speakers for 3 weeks and just saw the issue but now that I know about it, is there a way to stop it from getting worse or is replacement the only (best) way to go? [:S] I just thought of using a iron on fabric adheasive and a light fabric from the back to fuse the ends together, anyone think that is a viable option?

On the bright side, your equipment is clean [][][][:$]

That was my first thought too![:$]

I have 3 of them. The first two and a HD version on BD of 2 All great stuff!

This thread is about a week old but here is my $0.02 When my HWH went out about 10 years ago, tankless were harder to get and it would have required modification to the vent system we have. The mount would be in the garage and only about 40 feet on the longest run to 2 baths and the kitchen. When this tank goes south, I really want to retrofit a tankless esp now that it is only the wife and myself at home and our heat needs are fairly low yet we are paying to keep 40 gallons of water hot all the time. We are Propane so it is a little harder to find a unit but not much. YMMV!

That is one way to do it. What I did was to use "old construction" electrical boxes. You buy them from your local big box home improvement store. Use 2 at each location, both behind the TV and on the floor. You simply measure where you want to put them, use a dry wall knife to cut the hole then slide the box in the hole. It has ears that open up behind the drywall and securly mount the box into the wall. I use one for low voltage and one for the power outlet. Single boxes are easier to get connection plates for with connectors pre installed but modular systems are available for custom configuration. http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10425 Recessed outlets are nice but not mandatory as your mount isn't perfectly flush to the wall and you can use 90 deg connectors and plugs to maintain a low profile, but depending on your mount, they may not be need. In truth I bought all the stuff to mount my TV to the wall but wound up getting a stand on Craigs list for $100 that was only a few months old which included a mount for the TV above the top shelf, it was a lot less to mess with and it was an easier soultion for TV viewing than going with a wall mount. Not all situations allow this though, like my parrents home, they wanted the TV above the fireplace so my stand would not work for them. they had a built in shelf unit next to the fireplace and there was only about 6 inches of cable visable between the TV and the shelfs so they did not mess with outlet boxes. My unit is similr to this one, mine is also a Z mount. http://www.z-lineracing.com/product/89-Vitoria-Flat-Panel-TV-Stand-with-Integrated-Mount EDIT: An additional feature of the stand such as I purchased is that it is a tilt and swivel type mount, it can turn about 20 deg side to side, to avoid reflections or to allow better viewing in an off axis situation.

Tony, A word of caution is always a good thing. I have worked with a lot of electricty, not much inside an amp for sure but high voltage and current none the less, mostly industrial stuff, 3 phase and the like. Thanks for caring enough to give a word of caution, good audio is fun and all but not worth dying over!

Granted I skimmed not read the whole thread but I have been going the other way. While my HT is 7.1 Quartet, Heresy, I have found lately that I have been spending more time in my 2 ch room with DVD / BD down mixed to just 2 ch and I have been enjoying it a lot also. Just saying, I think that a HQ sorce is more important than how many Ch it uses. YMMV![:S]

Ya think that a give away may be the utter lack of snow and ice and people walking around in swim suits, that it may be a "fake" snow man?

Well I did find the offending piece of gear when I swapped in my SS amp from the HT to serve as a main amp for 2 ch. The hummmmmmmm followed onto the new amp so I knew the tube amp was not the issue. I did move each piece of gear in turn to find the ground loop and it was from the last thing I would have guessed. In my pic of the setup, you see a monitor, I put it there so I could watch DVD concert recordings while listening to 2 ch, the issue was with the monitor, through the composite VIDEO inputs as there was NO audio in to the monitor from the DVD/ SA/HD DVD player. The HDMI input had come loose on the monitor so I was using the composite inputs as the HDMI had failed, it must have shorted something out in the monitor and though it works fine on it's own, when connected into the audio system, it caused a ground loop. So....... I replaced the monitor and all is well now, even with the tube amp, no issues with hummmmmmmmm at all. The monitor I picked up was in the return/ open box shelf at my Sams club. I picked up a 40" 1080P screen for $280. It had been returned and supposedly it had been "repaired" and it was also missing the remote (I have lots of universal remotes so that wasn't a big deal) and the price was $100 off the cost of a new one. Upon getting it home, I had one HECK of a time with it. While it was playing in the store, when I got home I could not get any pass through audio (or from the TVs speakers either) from my source that I knew worked properly when checked against another monitor. Longggggg story short, the audio section of HDMI 1 isn't working but there still are 2 other.. working, HDMI inputs to use so for the price, it works out well. I have a week to take it back, no questions asked so I am putting it through it's paces for the next week to make sure it has no other issues. As my viewing distance is about 8 feet, I have about the same images size as my 60" is when viewed from that sets seating distance so it works out nicely. $100 off the price for the loss of one HDMI port, when the set was made in 12/2011 isn't so bad of a deal.... three HDMI inputs minus one, retail price of ~$300 minus $100 it's a fair cop! I also moved in my new gaming PC into the 2 ch room and it is under the power amp. I still have the Xbox 360 and the PS3 in the TV room but this gives me a place to play games when the wife wants to watch the big screen. So I guess this is now a 2 ch HT/gaming room LOL!

That does not sound quite as scarry! I think you are right with the blue caps. I just 2 minutes ago recieved an email from the local tech, he said filter caps, depending on how hard the board and solder joints are to reach take about 1 to 2 hours to do, $50 an hour and he will check/clean any controls, tighten all tube sockets and burn in at 80% power just to make sure there are no other issues. For $100 plus parts (and parts markup) it is nice to have someone else to yell at if things go sideways! I will take a closer look and see just what is involved but I am giving serious thought to taking it in, it is about an hour drive to the shop. Thank you again for taking the time to look things up and provide a little hand holding. You clearly know a lot more about this than I do! Regardless, of where it's done, it needs to be repaired. BUMMER!