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CECAA850

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Everything posted by CECAA850

  1. Malechi, THX recomends setting all speakers to small and crossing over at 80 Hz. This will help eliminate cancellation issues from multiple bass sources. My personal thoughts are that I can see no good coming from having your mains and receiver trying to produce tones well below 20 Hz. It robs your amp of power and makes your speakers try to reproduce sounds that they are not designed to do. You have a more than capable sub, let it do it's job. Don't get caught up in the large small nomenclature. That being said, try it both ways and set it the way that it sounds best to you. Your ears are the only ones that count in this scenario.
  2. 24' should not be a problem, and yes, the "crawl" does work.
  3. You can allways do the "sub crawl" for placement. Put the sub in the preferred seating location and play some bass heavy material. Crawl around the room till you find the location with the best bass. That's where your sub should go. You can use an SPL meter to assist you.
  4. If you are not using any kind of EQ, the box sub has a single band PEQ to help flatten out your room response. On the other hand, you have the option of using the 2 tubes non-colocation to help even out dips and peaks, something you can't do with a single sub. Non-colocating the 2 subs will give you about a 3 dB loss however. Which look do you like, box (big) or tube (tall)?
  5. ---------------- On 5/19/2005 7:14:59 PM formica wrote: ---------------- On 5/19/2005 7:08:17 PM Jay481985 wrote: ---------------- On 5/19/2005 5:24:07 PM CECAA850 wrote: NO!!! ---------------- agreed well except one package i saw... four freaking krell mrs attached to 7 mra ---------------- I know of this guy who has four 18" high excursion drivers in an IB for over 26L of displacement... oh, wait a minute... that's CECAA850 Rob ---------------- True, it is a sickness, but at least I'm not as bad as the guy with 2 B4+'s in an apartment!
  6. On-off on-off on-off = broken pegs.
  7. Welcome to the forum. As a rule, if you use your system 80% for HT, you'll want a sub that can run to 20 Hz (and below) with ease. There is a lot of info that dips well below 20Hz on many of the new DVD's. Your center channel speaker and your sub will absolutely make or break your HT, so get the best one you can afford.
  8. Awesome Bob, glad it worked out. Admit it, you got this huge s***eating grin the first time the sub came alive. I'll bet some of the previous posts make sense now. You'll find the same level of improvement once you set the mains, center and surrounds appropriately. The front sound stage will open up and the surrounds will become more enveloping. You're just about there.........
  9. You won't need a week to appreciate the difference in the RF-7's and the RF-3's. Mine sounded slightly better over time but sounded great from the get-go.
  10. CECAA850

    JBL

    Looks like it was a fairly entry level sub in it's day. Sold for $200.00 to $300.00 new about 10 years ago. I doubt your Klipsches would benefit much from it. I would either resell it or put it in a garage system with a couple of bookshelves, but that's just me.
  11. Hearing you say that (about your experience with the PB12+2) reassures me a lot- even though I have my doubts I'll take your word for it and give it a go. I was meaning to buy an SPL meter anyway- I have an old copy of video essentials from 1997- would that work? I will do what you say and keep my fingers cossed! Unfortunately I may not be able to do so for a few days. ---------------- DVE is notorioius for having a bad sub calibration section. SVS recomends AVIA. When set up properly, your sub is more than capable of re-arranging your wall hangings.
  12. Don't get hung up on the gain knob. Comparing gain knob positions on 2 dissimilar subs is absolutely worthless. Set the SVS a couple dB's higher than the mains and have a listen. The odds of SVS sending out 2 bad subs is remote at best (transportation damage.......that's another issue). When you get to this level of sub, setting phase and gain is not optional unless you want sub-par results. These are not plug and play units. I went through the same scenario with a PB12+2. I was so eager to find out what all the hype was about, I halfway set it up by ear and expected my house to come crashing down around me in a subsonic structural collapse. Disappointment was an understatement. I then took the time to set it up properly and all hell broke loose (like it was supposed to). Get a meter and a disc, set it up and get back with us. You're floundering in the dark till you do. You'll use it time and time again, everytime yo move a speaker or just want to tweak. Carl
  13. With the AVIA disc, I set my L.F. speaker to 85dB with master volume on 00 and adjust the rest of the speakers accordingly up or down to match. Works fine for me.
  14. Definately check your speaker configuration 1'st. Then calibrate your system with an SPL meter and disc like AVIA. There is no comparison between your old sub and the SVS. Once you get it dialed in you'll see what I mean.
  15. Just thought it might be easier than lugging the PB12+2 around............
  16. ---------------- On 5/9/2005 8:56:54 PM dog wrote: KW-120's Availability on this sub is basically nilch. My closest Klipsch dealer in Minnesota (Ultimate Electronics) does not have access to this line of subs. I noticed the amp is separate... What benefit does this serve? My brother just recently purchased an SVS model# PB-12 Plus/2 and should be expecting delivery of this sub on Thursday. The SVS sure seems like it gives you the best bang for your buck. If it was not for the sheer size and weight of this new sub it would sure be interesting to have him bring it on over and give it a run with my RSW ---------------- Dog, why not bring your sub to his house?
  17. If all else fails, buy an adapter plug that eliminates the ground prong on the sub power cord. Install it between the sub power cord and the wall socket. See if that helps.
  18. Couldn't tell you. They're all stacked up in my bedroom waiting to go up in the attric. A combination of "more work than I thought" and "not as much free time as I need" has kept me from listening to them. Watching a movie without a sub is only marginally better than not watching one at all. If I had to guess, I'm about a third of the way done with my IB. My amp is going in another room, so I had to run signal cable, speaker wire, and remote AC power to it's location. That part's done. I've got my insulation stripped in the attic, dimensions taken and have started on the framework for the 2, 2 driver arrays. Compound that with the fact that I'm really anal about my system and you get a slow go. Carl
  19. Poshag, welcome to the forum. We're going to need some sort of price spectrum to look at to help with a recomendation.
  20. ---------------- On 4/29/2005 11:53:00 AM formica wrote: PS: CECAA850... nice Avalanche18 icon ---------------- Actually, it's the 15 (pretending to be an 18). I couldn't find one of the 18 with the new 12 spoke basket. They haven't updated the pics on the website yet. The 15 looks the same as the 18 only smaller. P.S. the drawing in the middle looks like an SVS tube sub!
  21. I've never considered the RF-7's small. It would be interesting to see a comparison of cabinet volume between say...Corns and the RF'7's. Taller and deeper vs shorter and wider????? Might be interesting.
  22. CECAA850

    RF5

    Just saw a thread in 2 channel labled RF-5 sale. They were talking $700.00 for a pair.
  23. CECAA850

    RF5

    Nope on the OC. There is also an Orange county here in TX as well as one in FL (of all places). If he were here in TX, there is a place (auth dlr) just over the TX/LA border that has awesome prices on Klipsch gear. I would have to pass at that price for year old demo RF-5's.
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