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JJkizak

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Everything posted by JJkizak

  1. Are we speaking here of differences in sound results of wires or the resultant impeadence/capacitance changes the wires inflict between the crossovers and the amps? How is this documented? What is considered a "given" test standard for tube systems and SS systems? What is the test standard for the length and thickness of the wires? Shielding? Plastic dialetrics? Humidity? Proximity to AC power lines and 365KV high tension lines? Room temperature? Cigarette smoke? Wires laying in water in the basement? JJK
  2. Well if we had the connections gold flashed then sealed with a pressurized nitrogen blanket (outdoor waveguide, hardline,styroflex) their would be no worry about oxidation or tarnishing. Maybe some Berylium based nickel plated with final chrome plating would hold up. (High power cavity bendable fingers in Klystron transmitters) This might make a difference of .0000000000000000001%. Since my ears can only hear 1% distortion it would do me no good. I forgot to add the moisture cleaning and removal equipment that runs 24/7 and can be costly. JJK
  3. Well the more expensive stuff has directional arrows printed on it. My "Un-golden ears" can't tell the difference between any of them except volume. JJK
  4. I made my decisions simple. I said "Dean" make me new crossovers and he said what model I needed and everything turned out just fine. JJK
  5. I thought Bose only made car radios. JJK
  6. I could hear down to just barely 39hz without the sub. With the sub I could plainly hear 19hz with the sub set for 80 hz top. The sub also helped to balance out room nodes. I read somewhere it is best to avoid the 17 ft dimension in you listening room as it raises hell with acoustics. I believe it was some famous acoustics book but not by PWK. JJK
  7. For a long time I thought my lower limit was 39 hz. Then I got a subwoofer and it is now 19 hz. Upper limit used to be 16.5 khz. Now it is 12.5 khz and it is a stone wall, not a peep above . JJK
  8. Thanks for your kindness. I also have not experienced any quality SS gear. Since my main thrust in life is video editing sound comes second in line. I have found out that 7.1 doesn't work in my living room nor 5.1. But the center channel and sub woofer does. So I ended up using the 7.1 Denon for the sub and center channel and the stereo Denon for the K-horns. Occasionally use the 5.1 for testing the video. I use the PLC-II setting for CD and DVD palyback or DDES. The PLC-II setting makes the center channel come alive without affecting the K-horns. Life is full of compromises. JJK
  9. Well, the one in the barn is a Motorola FM Stereo table model radio that still works fine with external speakers, very low fidelity. The one in the garage is an Admiral console with Girard changer and it works well but I kind of sprayed it with fine polishing compound accidentally when buffing out the 1969 Corvette. ( I know, just no respect) The Fisher FM-100b and 101 power derived center channel amp I gave to my buddy and he loves it. I can't remember what happened to the Ampex reel to reel or the old Heathkit speakers and tube stuff or the AR turntable with the Shure V15 cartridge and Pickering cartridge. When I was in Greenland we used to buy Fisher stuff by the pallet. (Had a deal with them 50% off with APO packing in styrofoam packing crates.) Anyway, I always wanted a Crown DC-300A but could never justify it price wise so by that time SS was there. (Yes, I was weened on tubes). So I do get comfort "bashing" all of the "tube" people with all of the knowledge of having lived through the beginning/end tube/SS controversy technical explanations of why one is better than the other. JJK
  10. Allan Songer: What a condescending bit of nonsense!!!r: I thought I did a pretty good job of showing my distaste for tubes. I got rid of mine in 1985 and was amazed how it cleaned everything up when switching to SS. I removed the tubes to the barn and garage where they are very happy. JJK
  11. Silky smooth is not my forte. It's not that way when it's recorded. It's not that way at the joint where they are playing. It is loud. It is clean. It does vibrate your ribs. It does vibrate the walls. That's why I bought the K-horns. If you want silky smooth buy an old FM table radio or an Admiral console. JJK
  12. Having been in the plastics business for some time humidity is the biggest and best way to chase away static electricity. JJK
  13. You won't regret the Dean's crossovers for the Cornwalls. Mine was resurected to where I think it sounded better than it ever has. I noticed that the voices were cleaner and more natural and the bass was cleaned up a bunch. My ears cut off at 12.5 KHZ. so I can't tell you about anything over that. JJK
  14. I find it amazing tha PWK could come up with a speaker design that is fairly economical and can satisfy most of the "ears" on this forum. The odds of accomplishing this are worse than trying to win the Powerball. JJK
  15. Just do what you want to do. Let your ears be the judge. That's what everybody else does. I use an equalizer and a Hughes expander. Without them my system sounds like an ordinary car radio. JJK
  16. I forgot to mention my hearing range is 19hz to 12.5khz. So anything over the high end I do not hear. That 12.5 khz cutoff is huge, I can't hear 12.6khz at all with the volume turned up. JJK
  17. DMAN: What are the exact electronic measurement differences, freq response, distortion, efficiencies, radiation patterens, impedances, power handling capabilities, low power performance, high power performance, temperature & humidity effects, transient responses, resonance variations between cheap speakers and expensive speakers? Do you employ an engineering staff and a fully furnished lab to evaluate your new setups? I paid big money for my speakers so I wouldn't have to mess with those problems. Now if Klipsch offered a fully tested and improved driver kit I would consider that option. JJK
  18. When I purchased the K-horns and Cornwall in 1965 I believed at the time they were way ahead of everyone else technology wise. I had no idea where the components came from or who made them other than Klipsch. The zillions of hours that went into the final product I assumed every component on the market was tried and tested. Forty five years later technology has progressed and that's why I believe newer metal formulations, plastics, etc are being implemented in all Klipsch speakers. While my old crossovers were ok, Deans with all the new technology are superior. Also checking for proper sealing of the bass horn, sealing against the wall, helps a lot. I found out over the years that a large room (25 x 25 feet with high ceilings) had the best performance. I had them in 4 different rooms. The 17 ft wall was the worst dimension. The room size now is 24 x 14 ft and is the third best and it still chokes them down a bit. What I'm saying is room size and speaker location make the biggest difference. It all ends up that everyone hears sounds differently and will continue to tweak things the way they want and the only way to prove who has the best system is by precise electronic measurment of which the quality of the equipment and the test setup would be argued until hell freezes over before any measurements can be taken into serious account. . JJK
  19. Also keep in mind that some channels show 2.35 x 1 aspects in 1.79 x 1 to fill the screen which in effect is zooming in and causing more grainy texture and also loosing half the picture. I hate that when it happens. JJK
  20. According to my guru friend the OPPO is at the top for quality and performance.You can also experience HD now with the JVC SRDVD-100U player. It will show 2200 x 2200 pictures jpg, HD-WMV files, M2t , tp, ts and more HD files created in video editor applications at 1080I or 720P. It will also show them over your network connection or a plug in USB drive, Fat 32, NTFS. It will also play MP-3. Mp-4, and about a thousand others. I know because I have one and it does everything it says. $370.00 at B & H Photo. It will also show HD-m2t and HD-WMV files burned as data files to your DVD discs (Nero) along with jpg files. I have done this and it works. It will also work with Dual Layer discs the same way. It is made by IODATA and they use the Avelink setup for the network. When I got it a few days ago by UPS the box was banged up pretty bad but I tried it anyway no problems. You can download a whole bunch of HD-WMV's from Microsoft for free and look at them through the network from your hard drive or burn them data wise to a standard DVD disc and play them in the player. If you pictures are taken at around 2000 x 2000 resolution you can drop them in the avelink network file or burn them to the DVD disc again. It has DVI output and Component but the only lacking thing is 5.1, SACD, DTS. It has stereo PCM and Dolby with optical and coax output. I will not do 1080P but will do 720P and 1080i. This thing does everything I expected it to do. Going through the menu is a bit slow. I ran the optical to my Denon VDP input and the PCM to the TV. JJK
  21. My 1965 Cornwall came with the same black plastic gold flashed pie shaped PWK emblem as the K-horns. JJK
  22. Jdant & kj5dq: How was the Sony (1080P) being demonstrated at Circuit City or Best Buy? With the Sony HD-DVR or the in house stuff? Curious because at Circuit City here they used the in house stuff I asked them to use the Sony Demo and it was spectacular for a 50" set. Somebody at the store always switched the Sony back to the in house demo which made it look the same as the other sets. JJK
  23. I forgot two more formats for HD---EVD & FVD by the Chinese and Taiwans. JJK
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