JJkizak

Good thoughts. Just wondering where the industry will end up with this, Bluray, HD-DVD, HD-WMV, Holographic discs to be introduced in 2007 at 300 gig per disc, D-VHS, HD-DVR. JJK

Mr. Watt just rotated 15.3 times in his coffin after reading this thread. JJK

This player will play conventional DVD discs plus m2t, ts, mpeg2, mpeg1, mp-3, mp-4, etc. So what this means if you burn an m2t (High Def) file as a data file to a standard DVD disc it will give you about 30 minutes high def playing time and if you burn to dual disc it will be 1 hr. Also ditto for HD-WMV files. It also will connect via Cat5 and USB2.0/1.1 to USB external drives and cards. You don't have to wait for Bluray or HD-DVD. If you are a video editor you can create your own slide shows as long as your pictures started out around 2000x 2000. Render to 1080i 30p m2t and walla!I ordered mine from B & H for $379.00 as now I will be able to view the m2t files directly as long as the movies are not too long. If someone has HD-WMV's available they will work also. Of course, the hollywood stuff will be on Bluray or HD-DVD only. JVC-SRDVD-100U JJK

Dman: I am in complete agreement with you. Lets see now we have average watts, peak watts, RMS watts, music watts, even harmonic watts, odd harmonic watts, headroom watts, clipping watts, inflated watts, uninflated watts, "A" watts, "AB" watts, tube watts, SS watts, and "Whose on first watts". JJK

Frzninvt: Curious, what is the difference between the OEM cloth and black fibreglass screening material available at Lowes or Home Depot? JJK

When you go to the AVS forum click on the local HDTV reception, Cleveland area the last section of posts. They really are flogging out the reception problems as far as cable boxes, satellite boxes etc. JJK

Purchased K-horns & Cornwall in 1965 new. Have original receipts. JJK

With my OTA system pixelization is rare but one local channel has it by the gob full in the SD mode (The Tube music channel) and it is the fault of the reduced satellite feed on the second digital channel. On some of the olympics programs everytime they changed a scene there would be a very small and very quick burst of fuzzy pixels but you had to be looking for it or you would never see it. The control center feeds were fine. If you really want to understand these problems you must visit the AVS forum and be sure you have plenty of time allowed. Select your city and then you will see all of the problems relative to your area. JJK

Garymd: After the first groove rumble, the clicks pops and scratches, the warped record wow, the off center hole flutter and wow pitch changes, the excessive hiss at loud levels, the turntable hum at loud levels, the rounded off transients of the cymbals, the bass response 12 db down from the CD disc, the needle jump when you walk accross the room, the feedback through the turntable base, the end groove rumble, the mechanical distortion caused by the mechanical stylus, the cartridge acting like an antenna, you will loose. JJK

I have also noticed they treat Kilpsch like dog crap. Most of the time the stuff is not hooked up or everything looks catewompass. Mostly doesn't work. JJK

What's that squiggly stuff wrapped around the horn and on the 15" driver? JJK

-22 ---------------------normal -15-----------------------most of the time -12-----------------------aggressive -8-------------------------abusive (music videos, chair vibrates, floor vibrates, walls vibrate) -5.5-----------------------Max SPL JJK

Quality wise no. Component is analog video only. HDMI is digital video + audio. HDMI was created to replace DVI which is digital video only. Installers were having problems feeding the huge DVI connectors through walls (requires a 1 5/8" hole)so they came up with HDMI connectors which are very small and manageable + they contained the audio as well eliminating a ton of other cables. JJK

OK, OK, I indefinitely give up. But I will still spend the 5 bucks for a new cap or caps. One thing that was not addressed, if the tubes have built in getters to run them for 24 hours in filaments only to eliminate the gas as long as the getter is powered. JJK

William F. Gil McDermott: After reading the pdf I am now more convinced then ever that reforming is nonsense. As for being negative, yes you are right. It kind of reminded me of the Frankenstein movies when the lightning strikes the decayed bodies. I talked to my Guru buddy who has been in the business for about 25 years and he also said it is voodoo baloney. Kind of like those $5000.00 cables for hookups. I really liked the coat hanger guy though. JJK

There is no such thing as "reforming" capacitors. This is total nonsense. JJK

Like I said, replace the caps and be done with it. They are designed to last 20 years period, and don't even last that long. If the caps were replaced running up the amp with low to high voltages is a waste of time, as proven by the previous thread. Tube balance must be set at normal operating input voltage or it is not valid. JJK

Artto: I really and truly do not buy it. I never had to do that in the 50's, 60's, 70's and 80's. I have an old cheapo console out in my garage (Admiral) all tubes and never have to do that. I turn it on once a year and it's fine. I have another old all tube motorola radio in my barn and the same thing. In my opinion something else caused your problem, possibly corrosion. And all of the amplifier designs I have worked with the caps discharge to ground within a few minutes, computer caps being the exception. JJK

No, I don't have it in for anyone. But reforming the capacitors sounds like total baloney to me. If they are 20 years old just replace them and be done with it, one less thing to worry about. Those capacitors were not designed to last more than 20 years anyway. Same with carbon pots. Replace them with a 5 turn wirewound and reduce your noise and gain added precise control. Bust all of your ground connections and remove the corrosion then refasten. Look for burned resisters and replace with oversize low noise precision. Re-solder any suspect looking joint. If you have solid state rectifiers just replace them and don't even ask why. They are lucky to last 20 years. If the tube sockets feel loose when you insert the tube replace the socket as this will cause noise. I assume you know how to solder. If you do not then you had better learn, preferably from someone that has taken the "NASA" course. Wire positioning is critical for hum control so don't go bananas moving wires around. If you have coax with shields do not modify how they are hooked up as this is critical.Don't mount your amp on top of a huge magnetic thingy like an unshielded sub woofer. Huge magnetic fields are how they control electron flow from in high power klystron tubes. Magnets disrupt electron flow. If I were considering a tube system I would buy new only knowing what I know about old stuff. Good luck and may you stumble on a warehouse full of old NOS tubes. I am really trying not to be caustic here as I am really a nice guy. JJK

I believe Dean had a thread on constructing false corners 4 ft on each side. JJK

What good is the Variac going to do? Just turn the unit on and if it croaks get it fixed. Some components don't like low voltages and your procedure may burn the thing up anyway depending on where you start the voltage inputs. This is a total waste of time in my opinion. Checking the tubes, cleaning corrosion, inserting the correct fuse, replacing burned resisters with new low noise parts, replacing the caps would be a much better procedure. JJK

I have (2) old 1965 Klipsch K-horn crossovers complete that don't work very well (compared to the new Deans) but if you want them 25 bucks will suffice. These suckers are heavy enough to break your toes if you drop them. You will have to provide the two screws that fasten them down however. JJK

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I really think you should try different things than messing with a superbly designed speaker. New Crossover? JJK