JJkizak

Put the K-horns on the 30 ft wall with the Cornwalls in the center for center channel feed. Run the K-horns with one amp and the Cornwalls with another. (if you want). Use the full center frequency spectrum and a 12 inch sub-woofer in between the Corwalls with 80 hz rolloff. If you have 7.1 and the speakers that will give it a bit more ambiance. Set the driving amp to PL-II-C Remove all pictures and things hanging on the walls as they will vibrate off anyway. What I have described is not a very polite system. The K-horns should have the "pipe seals" glued to the edges that fit to the walls. The upper midrange horn enclosure should have a least one brace from the top to bottom glued and screwed to keep the top from vibrating. Top it off with "Dean Networks" Use any type electronic stuff you want, it will blow you away. The Corwalls should be 6 inches from the wall and the sub should be about 8 inches from the wall perpendicular and with the controls facing the wall. On the back of one of your Corwalls screw on a nice board that sticks out to the side and then mount your master powerstrip whereby you turn on the entire system. One power switch turns everything on. You can set your electronic stuff on top of the Corwalls no problem but not the sub. Somewhere in this mess you have to set the High-Def TV. Good luck. JJK

I forgot to add that Norton will slow down your machine by 20%. Norton also brutally entangles itself into XP making it impossible to remove all of it's files unless you re-install XP. (some 30 files remain after uninstall) JJK

Also make sure it is a totally clean install, that is double 00 the hard drive and all other hard drives as the new OS will suck hidden info from the hard drives. Also the file allocation is changed to 8192 (double from SP1) so you might get some slowness from some apps data that was written on the old allocation trying to operate on the new allocation. One of America's greatest philosophers once said, "You can't always get what you want". Then again he might have been English. JJK

Put those two Cornwalls in the middle (center channel to each one) and you will rock with the K-horns in the corners. Feed the center with separate amps. You will be kool. Set your main control to PL II-C. JJK

Most of the time cleaning a pot will not last. It will start becoming noisy later on driving you nuts. The only sure way is to replace it. It's noisy because its cheap and worn out. Cleaning it will not put the carbon back. The only pots I know of that don't get noisy are wirewound five and ten turn precision made units and they are expensive. Good luck. JJK

I know where your coming from with the Denon manual. The LFE channel is the channel for the Sub-Woofer. Or you can use the center channel and the filter in the Sub-Woofer (if you have one) will just pass the low stuff. If your Sub-Woofer does not have a filter you must use the LFE channel and using the Denon setup program set the filter to 120 hz or 80 hz to drive the Sub-Woofer. Then use the center channel for the center speaker. You must view the Denon setup program on your tv set. Best of luck on all the different explanations of 5.1, 6.1, 7.1, etc. JJK

The MOV's in your unit protected your equipment. Just get another one and be happy. JJK

Well now I know the difference between "clean watts" and "dirty watts". So we should have the designation to the stats as "30cw" or "90dw". JJK

1. 1965 Cornwall C-D-15, 2Q----------$311.00 15% discount---------------------46.65 total-------------------------$264.35 2. 1965 bass horn K-3H2-C-----------$313.00 X2 =$626.00 3. 1965 midrange horn K-400---------$130.00 X2 =$260.00 4. 1965 1R balancing network--------$ 36.00 X2 =$ 72.00 total-------------------------$958.00 15% discount------------------$143.70 total-------------------------$814.30 This data taken from my actual receipts. This was a real bunch of money back then. JJK

I never liked F1 after they got the RPM's up so high they sounded like a "chain saw convention" at a "mini bike" track with "model airplanes" and "lawn mowers" as sideshows. JJK

I don't personally have an upconverter but according to the big guy's that are into the professional end of it (BJM--Sony Forum) The Samsungs are terrific. They really do work. JJK

Updawg: Sony video forum, but thats a raid 0 setup. If you set it up as raid 1 one drive will (mirror) retain the info but it will be slower. Personally I am using a Medea SCSI raid 0 setup on two units and a SATA raid 0 on my video setup. The SCSI one crapped once and I lost everything. My guru buddy say's the SATA raid is pretty reliable from the motherboard but a bit dicy from an adapter card. So far the Intel board SATA raid 0 has been OK. I really don't need to boot that fast so I use a standard IDE ATA 100 for the OS. I use two 250gig Maxtor drives on the SATA. JJK

Well, they are really really clean, they put out huge amounts of acoustic power with small power inputs, awesome bass, and the balance of voices to music from soft to loud is exceptional. They also have longevity, mine are 1965 models. The design started out roughly in the 1930's and has changed very little since that time. Listening to them at a demo place is like trying to row a boat upstream as they know not what they do. JJK

Booting from your raid setup is very dangerous. One blip and your out.Use a separate IDE drive for the OS. Use the raid setup for doing the action stuff, not storage. Use another computer for your online stuff with the Norton. Norton will slow your good machine down about 20%. The online computer can be an old dog laying around the house and if you have DSL make sure you set it up with a router and firewall, not a software firewall. Keep your good machine offline with no anti-virus or firewall. The NEC and the Plextor 716A are the two best burners on the market right now, the plextor does give a deeper burn. JJK

By the way Rat Shack is doing the same thing as Best Buy with the Monster cable bullcrap. I looked at the salesman like he was crazy when he was insisting that I purchase the 120 dollar Monster cable (6 ft). I bought the cheap stuff and laughed at the guy and just shook my head in disbelief. JJK

Possible scenarios: 1. All of the tuners and receivers in the house are bad 2. All of the tuners and receivers in the house do not have an antenna 3. The house is in a temporal anomoly Hook a length of wire from one terminal to the other, whatever is laying around the house on one of the receivers. You will then have many stations. JJK

The question of who will be in business peaked my interest. Serious is loosing 900 million per year and is about 5 billion in the hole. XM is making money. Yet the Serious stock is going up. Go figure. JJK

I am presently using (4) 50 footers no problem. Also using (2) 50 foot coax for the 5.1 no problem and can't hear any difference between the two types. JJK

DaddyDee: The tubes were used in the FRC39AV tropospheric scatter system on the Dewline in Thule and Fox Main on a 600 mile link. Two transmitters in parallel at two different frequencies and one vertically polarized and one horizontally polrized. At the other end were 4 receivers, two vertically polarized and two horizontally polarized and each tuned to the frequency of its corresponding transmitter. Each receiver had a parametric amp on the front end and all of the receivers were combined at the audio level with a combiner ckt that would reduce the noise 3 db if the same signal was on all four receivers. AGC would bias the combiners so the best recever was doing all the work. Each receiver had a 60khz pilot which was derived from both transmitters from one modulator at the other end and each receiver was phased up on this pilot at installation at the IF level when the signal strength was good. One receiver was the prime and all the others were adjusted to it by adding cable (RG-58) to the IF link using Tektronics dual trace scopes. Loss of signal would cut off the combiner ckt of the marginal receiver. The parametric amps had a noise figure of 1.8 db at 400 to 960 Mghz with 10 meg bandwidth. The receiver sensitvity was typically -103 dbm for 20 db quieting with IF bandwidth of 3 megs. A threshold extension panel would cut in at the quieting point of the receiver to cut the bandwidth to 1.5 megs thus increasing the 20 db quieting to -106 dbm. Intermodulation distortion with full white noise loading was -55 db at all frequencies from 12khz to 300 khz. I would love to have some of those parametric amps but they cost $50,000.00 at 1970 prices. The last price I saw on the Klystron tubes was about $44,000.00 each and sometimes we would blow 2 in a week. There were 120 ft parabolic antennas at each end, one 55 ft ahead of the other for added diversity. (Quad diversity system.)The antenna angles were adjusted to just clear the curvature of the earth which was about 40 miles away if you were on a 1000 ft mountain. Most of the signal went into outer space but the troposphere reflected back a tiny amount of signal. The 120 ft antennas provided about 37 db gain of the transmitted signal and the same for the receive. Most everything now is done by satellite communications. At the time Bell Labs had come up with a super 9-feedhorn recieve amplifier system that was the cat's *** but the military said no and then junked the whole thing for satellite. JJK

I totally understand where Dr Bill is coming from. I have worked with tubes all my life and on some very exotic stuff. Tube equipment is almost a visual empathetic instantly recognizable assemblage of parts that form a total picture of understanding. The SS stuff are an assemblage of mysteries that somehow perform the same job as the tube stuff but I can't see the dam electrons moving. The largest tube I worked on was a 100Kw klystron, and yes it required a chainfall to install and several big time heat exchangers to cool it down. The tube was about 6 ft in length and about 18 inches in diameter and had two 3" coolant connections to the collector---oh oh, that means it might have been solid state. The collector was about 3.5 ft long and the inside of the tube was 3/4" in diameter. The collector was tapered so the electron beam would not burn a hole in it and had to dissipate 350 kw worth of power. The rest of the tube was about 6" in diameter (diameter set to the frequency used) and had 3 cavities (ceramic) that would let external cavities tune (modulate the electron beam) to start and re-inforce the power with huge coil magnets keeping the electron beam centered in the drift tube. These babies would crank out 75 kw at a 10 meg bandwidth 24/7. Lets see, if I had 500 K-horns in parallel would that be cool or what? I forgot what the original subject was. You know when nailing this tube/ss thing down where do you draw the technical line? Is it a tube or SS? How is it defined? Electron beam in a vacuum surrounded by a solid? JJK

I use a 36 ft length DVI and analog (15 pin)cables with no problems but not with a labtop. JJK

DrBill: I don't agree with you on any of your statements. JJK

I forgot to mention that you can use the MY-HD 130 computer tuner card to view your HD stuff, capture your Sony HDV stuff to computer with Cineform Connect HD, then change the file ending from m2t to tp then put the file into the file viewing folder of the MY-HD card which will play the file directly from your hard drive. The quality is outstanding (I knmow I have all that stuff) and you can PTT from the MY-HD card to your Sony Camera or the JVC D-VHS vcr. I have about 110 files I recorded off the MY-HD Tuner card which has all the toy's including remote control auto programming, the whole shot. digitalconnection.com JJK

Keep in mind also that if you start planting ground rods that are separated by too much distance you might start some ground loop problems. But if you have to you have to. The proper way is to construct a massive ground plane mesh then run your grounds up from the mesh. Then with your explosion proof 115vac twist-lock plugs ($100.00 each) you will have some real nice power. JJK

Have him put in two #10 30 amp circuits. That will cover anything you have. JJK