PrestonTom

Is there a possibility that an "upgrade" was done in the past? Are the drivers original Klipsch or was there substitution on the compression drivers? I would first identify the source of the fluid before you start ordering crossover parts.

Are you kidding, there is an entire world of options out there. The Xilica XP does not have digital inputs and nor does it have have FIRs. For some this will be an issue and I am not interested in debating an individual's choice. The XD series remedies this but they are even more expensive. To start: 1) how many channels do you need, 2) how many outputs do you need 3) is digital input important, 4) Approximately how much filtering do you need, 5) is the user interface important or slightly important, 6) are FIR vs IIR important, 7) do you think correcting the phase spectrum is important or very important, 8) Is the noise floor after the DAC a small issue or big issue, 9) VERY IMPORTANTLY : is cost a consideration and are you willing to buy used? It is easy to say that "I want everything" but that gets expensive .... "

I also like the Yamaha unit (if you can find a used one at a good price). In addition to the above, it turns out the digital input can also handle digital S/PDIF (keep the cable short and you may need to short pin 1 & 3 on the XLR). Although the filters are not FIR, it has provisions for adjusting the phase over a prescribed bandwidth. For some this is a nice feature since it can clean up some of the phases shifts that are otherwise inherent in DSP crossover settings.

This is frequently a position we are in. I have found the process to be fairly invisible. The package simply arrives at the door. Once, a few years ago, the postal guy wanted me to sign that it had been delivered and made a comment that on "these overseas deliveries" they always want a signature. No questions about fees or taxes or anything else. This is such more common than you might think. -Tom

IF the back panel is not removable, then the components (woofer etc) come out the front. Do not do this yourself, and it may not really be necessary. Incidentally,. since you mentioned Macintosh equipment, depending of what it is (and condition etc) it could be worth quite a bit - much more than the equipment you have listed. In fact, I would not even turn it on unless you have someone knowledgeble looking over your shoulder. I know this sounds funny, but I am quite serious. Good luck, -Tom

This is the Garage Sale section of the forum and it would be disrespectful for us to critique your asking price (although sadly - some will). My friendly suggestion is to start by identifying the specific model of cabinet (it appears to be a Cornwall, but there were multiple versions). There are tags on the back of the cabinet and we can help you decipher them (model, year, and finish). With that knowledge you can then search on some of the past threads in the Garage Sale section and get a rough idea of an asking price. Please remember that condition (scratches, snags, chips etc) can easily alter the price by 20% or more. The numbers you are floating are not realistic and I will say no more. I would suggest many photographs of the different sides including any tags or blemishes. Also photos with the grilles removed. If the back is screwed on and removable (not all are) you can carefully remove the back and take photos of the insides (this will also help figure out what modifications may have been performed. I am sorry to hear about the circumstances which led to you becoming the owner. We are all certain that your Father probably cherished the sound of his Klipsch speakers very much. Good Luck, -Tom In terms of location, as mentioned above, this is important, as fellas whether you would be willing to ship or deliver. I am getting the impression these may not be in North Amrica. Is that the case?

There are so few for sale that it is difficult to make a general statement.

Robert: you have a PM

Who knows where folks get their asking prices from. They may have looked up the price for a new pair and taken off a third or whatever. It is a very quick way to "research" the price - all of 30 seconds. You would be surprised how frequently this happens when people are cleaning out the basements of a relative who just died or went to a rest home. This reminds me, I need to talk to my kids .....

Back in Feb, Aaron had some Jubilees for sale ($5k as I recall), I contacted him later and he mentioned that there had been considerable interest but he decided to keep them after all. That is the last I heard. I am not sure if he is still active on the forum. It would have been one a heck of a deal for someone. Robert, with one more post, you will have crossed the threshold and be able to PM folks directly. I will PM you once I have made some decisions (probably in the near future). Good Luck, -Tom EDIT: Note, on second thought, Who knows whether things have changed. Best to PM Aaron directly.

That is a very interesting question. So let's speculate. The "old version" with a DSP is about $20-25 K less than the "new version", although the old version may no longer be available (the last several months has had contradictory info about availability). The price of the new version simply crosses the line for many of us. While the old version may not sound as good as the new, they still sound pretty darn good. I have enjoyed them for over ten years and I feel they are one of the best speakers that I have ever heard. I think most Jubilee owners will agree with that statement. Given the cost of the new version, my speculation is that very few used Jubilees will come on the market (not worth the "upgrade") The few that do come up for sale will command a hefty price. Even with a hefty used price on an "old" Jubilee, their value (performance divided by price), will still be a very good buy. Of course this is just speculation. Over the years, very few used Jubilees come on the market so it will be hard to see any sort of trend. This is further confounded by a more general trend. - does there continue to be an interest in "big speakers". Ultimately, I am afraid that big speakers may be going the way of dinosaurs. Good luck, -Tom

I understand where Artto is coming from. The way I roughly conceptualize is that there are Living Rooms and then there are Media Rooms (aka rec rooms, man caves, bachelor pads etc). When we are in the world of living rooms, it must function as a more general purpose room (entertaining, a place for visitors, a place for the entire family, a place where kids leave their toys and do their homework ... the list goes on). In the "Living Room" world, the Klipschorn worked. The footprint was about as large as would want to go and the height was getting up there, but it was still manageable. The Klipschorn also had the advantage that it looked like a finished piece of furniture (simple but with a style that was somewhat elegant). So a Klipschorn could work in either a "Living Room" or in a "Media Room". The new Jubilee is a different beast. The new Jubilee has both a larger foot print and is taller. The exposed horn is interesting in a sort of industrial looking way, but it would not be considered "elegant" by most (in spite of an upgrade on the veneer). IOW, would it complement the existing furniture, upholstery, carpeting, decor in your living room - for most of us probably not. In fact it might be quite incompatible, although I am sure there are some exceptions. So this puts the new Jubilee into the category that it is fine for a Media Room but probably not for a Living Room. Now the reality sets in. How many of us have the resources to have "an extra room" in the house to dedicate as a Media Room (explain to the kids that they are going to have to share a room, so that Dad can have his toys or other similar conversations with your spouse about a home office, walk in closet, florida room, formal dining room, ..... the list goes on). However, if they really are selling for $ 30-35K, maybe the affluent don't have this problem. At no point have I suggested that these will not sound wonderful. I'm sure they sound great. I have the original style Jubilees. I love their sound, but I'll confess that I have struggled with how to make them compatible and acceptable in the "Living Room" world. I am afraid the New Jubilee version is further limiting them to being restricted to the "Media Room" (if you are fortunate enough to have such a room). Good luck, -Tom

A few more posts and then you can PM. There may be some Klipsch Jubilees for sale in Connecticut in the very near future. Same footprint as the Klipschorn, but they sound better. PM if you are interested. -Tom

You'll need to be more specific about the application. Is the horn going to be free standing or in a box and surrounded by a baffle. If there is a baffle, then is the horn mounted flush (approximately). Are you trying to re-use and existing cabinet? In general, horns work better if mounted on a baffle. Tell us about the project. Good luck, -Tom

Yes, it includes the flange. If space is tight, then the flange can be trimmed down some (table saws are useful). I doubt the tractrix calculator will give the correct results. The shape (expansion rate) is what Roy calls a "modified tractrix ". The controlled dispersion is one thing that makes a "modified tractrix" different than a "regular tractrix". This is potentially a big deal. Good luck, -Tom

When you say damped, do mean the energy is absorbed? If so, then the choice of material, its density, its thickness are all quite important. Especially, as you go down in frequency. The wavelengths are large and an inch of material may not do much. I am going to stop now.

I understand your point and I am not saying that there might be an issue with standing waves ...... however, where is the energy coming from for these mid-bass & mid range frequencies? There is very little energy coming from the back of the midrange horn. The driver is somewhat sealed and the horn is structurally solid. The sound mostly goes into the room and not to the inside of the cabinets. The woofer is different story

If the roll of R-13 (the fluffy stuff) is compressed, then it might have an effect. There is little energy coming off the back of the mid-horn and tweeter, so we don't need to worry about standing waves in the cabinet at those mid and high frequencies. However the woofer will have energy coming from the back certainly (at the very low frequencies it comes through the vent, obviously). But the rest of the low frequency bandwidth -- let's think about it. Below the crossover point, the frequencies have wavelengths of 20-something inches and larger. An inch of material has some effect, but I am not sure how much. Some materials are just inappropriate (closed cell foam for instance, which is sometimes sold at Joannes as mattress pad incidentally). So if you really want to reduce standing waves you would need much more material (I am not advocating this BTW). The standing waves would only occur at certain frequencies and be quite dependent on the box geometry. Is the idea that you are somehow "hearing" the standing waves that are inside the box? My brain is small, but I don't understand the thinking. The JBL engineers when referring to their horn systems (ported woofer with horn load mid and highs - similar to a Cornwall) talk mostly about "increasing the apparent volume" by lining the cabinet with pressed fiberglass. Little discussion is given toward possibly eliminating "standing waves" in those systems. Good luck, -Tom

If you try this again, or anyone else, the density and thickness is the important feature of the material. If you do a google search you can get up to speed on how to run an "impedance sweep" on the cabinet (just bottom octaves). It does not require much in the way of equipment (tone generator, a cheap resistor and an inexpensive volt meter). This will tell you where the cabinet vent is tuned and it is a quick measure. The "apparent volume" can be changed by the addition of the material. This is turn can affect the vent tuning. Sometimes the shareware programs like HolmImpulse and REW can automate this procedure (although be careful not to overdrive your sound card) An interesting measure would be to measure the vent tuning under three conditions: 1) old material, 2) bare cabinet, 3) new material. The impedance measure can be diagnostic. Whereas, actually measuring the frequency response at the lowest octaves is more complicated and there are several logistical problems you will run into. Good luck, -Tom

Yes, the TAD and some JBLs also had a snout that expanded from a 1.4 to a 2inch exit. These were done by design and had a thought out expansion of the cross-sectional area and taper. A generic adapter may or may not be a good substitute. However, we are not certain what the poster was specifically considering. So it is probably best to shy away from an adapter (small-to-large) and certainly avoid an adapter that is large-to-small.

Thank you for the compliment, but I am hardly an expert. Another thought, if you are shy about putting the K-402 on the table saw (and I can't imagine why you might be .....) and the K-510 is not up to snuff, then there is another alternative. ElectroVoice made a HP640 horn (60 deg horizontal and 40 deg vertical) horn. It was a 2 inch throated CD (controlled dispersion) horn. With the right driver, (eg, a JBL 2445/46 driver, or a EV DH1A, and others), it could be crossed at 500 or so Hz and play up to the top octave. It was only 26 in wide if I remember correctly and had controlled polars down to 500 Hz horizontal and about 2kHz vertical. It sounded good. I used to see these on eBay for some very affordable prices (although shipping has now become a headache). Please note that I said the HP640 model. The other models did not sound as good (possibly because their diffraction slots were more pronounced - but I am only guessing). In fact, I used one of these with a DSP crossover on top of a La Scala bass bin and the La Scala never sounded so good (with a K-510 horn it could sound better, however ....). I always love spending other people's money ..... Good luck, -Tom

Emile, A couple of things are getting confused regarding diaphragm size vs throat size. If the throat on the horn is 2 inch then get a driver with the same size exit (2 inch). Going small to large (1.4 inch driver to 2 inch horn) is not a great idea, but folks do this sometimes. On the other hand going large to small ( 2 inch driver to 1.4 horn throat) is a rotten idea. It actually can mechanically create a low pass filter. Notice I have not said anything thing about diaphragm size only horn throat and driver exit. Something to consider, and it may not work in your case, the edges of the K-402 (flat part with the bolt holes) can be trimmed back an inch or two on each side (table saws are wonderful). Would this work for you? Additionally, the K-402 can be rotated so it becomes 26 wide and 40 tall. You would need to alter the stand/mount and you might need to re-think your crossover point. Additionally, is it possible that you have given up prematurely on the K-510 horn. I think it is a real champ. Another round of adjusting the crossover point, and EQ'ing it might work wonders. Good luck, -Tom

Well, it depends if you are in a hurry and If you are comfortable buying used. My last place was 11 ft wide (and 27 deep). I had Jubilees in that room and the sound was fantastic. Klipshorns would also work (they do need corners or false corners). These two models become affordable when they are on the used market and will sound considerably better than many of the suggestions above (IMHO). Good luck, -Tom

There is an obscure area of (auditory) science referred to as psychoacoustics or auditory psychophysics. The endeavor attempts to manipulate changes in the physical stimulus (things that can be physically measured - eg amplitude spectrum, dispersion etc) and to measure the corresponding psychological consequence (percept - eg, was it "louder", "better", could you detect the change, etc). In this case, Toole surveyed a number of existing speakers for their physically measured properties (physics) and looked at the corresponding psychological response (in this case .... on a 1 to 10 scale "how good does the speaker sound"). This later measure (psychological) is not trivial to measure, since there are number of ways to do it "wrong". However, Toole knows what he is doing so I am not troubled by the techniques that he used. The outcome was that he was able to weight various physical measures, (amplitude response, dispersion, etc) and do a decent prediction (via correlation) on how well (numerically) the listeners would rate speakers regarding sound quality. Notice, this is an empirical approach with little theorizing on "why" the various factors are weighted high or low. Not much "interpretation" going on ..... So have a look at Toole, he is pretty good at simplifying things for a general audience.

Posting photos would help a great deal. Are they currently set up so buyers could audition them? There are so few that come up for sale that it is hard to guess on price.