Z4!

I've owned Forte, Forte II, Cornwall (vert), Cornwall (std), Cornwall II and Cornwall III ! I prefer all the Cornwalls over the Forte and Forte II, but as Daddy Dee said, I am sure there are others who would differ with me. I'd at least go take a look and have a listen to them!

Hi Randyman, My guess is that there aren't that many using dual Crowns to drive KLF30s, thus there may not be many who can answer your question. The only DSP settings I have seen shared here were done by Roy in the anechoic chamber specifically for the Jubilee. Good luck on your quest!

I know....It's a CROWN! [] edit: dang; fini beat me to it! []

$2495 http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/leben2/system_2.html'>

Too bad mdeneen wasn't the one to get to take a look at it!

Does this place: http://cgi.ebay.com/KLIPSCH-Custom-3-Earphones-Earbuds-Monitors-Headphones_W0QQitemZ290204926032QQihZ019QQcategoryZ111693QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQtrksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem really have 20 pair available? I doubt he/she/it is an authroized dealer...hummmm Shut 'em down Amy!

Hmmmmmmmm It might be useful to quote a little more of Coytee's post... []

Nevermind...[*-)]

There were only 46 pairs of Maple Heresy's built; if indeed they are maple they are pretty rare! Groomlakearea51 is correct, they should say H-ML or H-MO.

I'd not sell to him...[^o)]

So they wanted a whopping $2 for you to post a link to your ad trying to sell >$3500 in raffle tickets? Unbelievable!

Photo files don't use an html extension. If you need to imbed a file using html you use the <img_src=filelocation> tag. You shouldn't need to do that in Ooulook Express - I'd need to look at a buddy's computer to give the correct steps but it shouldn't be that different than Outlook; I'll try to take a look at OE this evening at a friend's house.

You don't need HTML to imbed the image in your sig line. Convert the image to .jpg or .gif and you should be able to set it in your sig line. Go to Open Outlook then go to Tools/Options/Mail Format - you should find the signature editing at the botom of the pop-up. HTH

The ad on craigslist reads: "Vintage La Scala PA Speakers, Black 480-529-1364 or 602-843-0836"

Donald Fagan's NightFly is one of my top ten favroites!

The Klipsch factory shipping boxes for Cornwalls are not adequate for UPS or FedEx shipping. The boxes would work OK using ForwardAir or Craters and Freighters if the boxes were secured to a pallet, but the factory boxes are just not sturdy enough and the foam cushion is only ~1" even in the corners. The Cornwalls are great speakers; pay the extra bucks for adequate shipping if you can't drive down and pick them up! You won't be dissapointed.

Good job Erik! Now let's let this thread get back on topic!!! []

Example 1: Example 2: "I am more confused after reading the simplification" Okay -- thanks for your honesty. "Expediency is not the best idea when judging improvements in audio." That's fine for you; others may not necessarily feel the same. People should behave and respond in a way that works for them. It's their stuff, their ears, and their money. "What data supports the assertion of "good"?" Exactly. In this case, the fact that professional engineers understand that they are perfectly well suited to crossover use. Will a more expensive capacitor with the audio-oriented name be different? Probably. Will the difference always be for the better because the cap was given a catchy name and a higher price? Maybe. Not necessarily. I've done this for nearly twenty years -- not two or three -- and have used lots of expensive caps in preamps, amps, and crossovers. It wasn't always the *better* one that made the difference I preferred. That's the point here. Hopefuly that will be simple enough. "When I got my Belle ALK Jr. (DEANG) crossovers and shelved the originals (thankfully) the sound was easily noted as different but took a few dozen hours to understand how the music realism improved." Great! However, that doesn't mean that the opinion of someone else who immediately notices a difference for the better is less valid than your own approach. "Not a great idea for a Newbie enthusiast, perhaps for an experienced person." I was responding to Mike's experiment and to him. Whether it's a great idea or not for a newbie enthusiast is vague at best. I've known new-comers to this hobby that caught onto the theory and application of basic crossover design and theory very, very quickly; and certainly enough to experiment with mild differences in values of inductance and capacitance. I did that myself after a short time. These are passive components that do not pose the same electrical hazards as amps and preamps. I've known people who jumped in and caught on like lightening in a very short time. I try to not be so quick to judge the potential of others. Soldering has also been described as very difficult in the past, and made out to be something suited only to a select few. Absolute nonsense. Many more here are finding that changing something as simple as a capacitor or inductor in a crossover is nothing at all to shy away from because it belongs to the sacred realm of audio. Nonsense. Once that is mastered, people can play with every capacitor and iron or air core inductor under the stars until they are happy. The type 'A' crossover as a schematic has the literary complexity of a stop sign. STOP. Not much doubt about what needs to be done, and even a very recent beginner can learn, if he or she is interested enough to do so, the applicable schematic symbols quickly. Erik Erik, I really really look forward to reading your thoughts on many of the ideas that are discussed on the forum (as well as the other posters in this thread and most of the forum "regulars" BUT It would certainly make it easier to follow who said what when if you would take advantage of the "Quote" option when replying to a comment. I'm not trying to "get in your face", just make a comment that I think will make following the thread easier! []

Thanks for the replies guys; I set the bias to 80 mA and she's sounding pretty good! The biasing instructions do say to use the 0-300 mA scale. I don't know the difference between reading current-draw and terminal voltage [:$]

I have a quick question about biasing... I know I am supposed to set the bias to 75-100 mA but I don't know whether that is on the DC scale (I think DC is correct) or am I to use the AC scale? My owners manual doesn't say which scale to use. Thanks for your help!

I've had good luck shipping Heresys; I'd build up each corner (all 8 of 'em) with thick cardboard (I found cardboard corners at a local box manufacturing company...they were ~ $.25 each) and then "float" the Heresys in a larger double walled outer box. Good luck with the shipment!

I think you will be pleased with the CR-2040! I purchased a CR-1020 along with a pair of Heresy's in 1977 and they are both still going strong. I had a friend with a Sansui receiver and speakers and we had a shoot-out one day; he sold his Sansui gear and bought Yamaha and Klipsch!

The reference to "smokinhotstyles" is at the very bottom of the listing, just below the paypal logo and above where you place your bid: Seller's payment instructions Thank you for your purchase and prompt payment. This ensures your item will be sent out immediately. Thank you! ~smokinhotstyles

I'd be watching craigslist (www.craiglslist.org) and the newspaper classifieds as well as ebay for Heresys; I think his budget is a little on the low side, especially for ebay. Quartets are a great option but they usually sell for more than Heresys, at least as far as I've seen. I have found 3 pair of Heresys for under $200 at garage sales, but it could take quite awhile to stumble onto a pair.

I second the Sony S9000ES; It really is a great player if you don't need DVD-A!