Islander

There is such a thing, but it's usually called a "full-range" speaker. Fostex is a well-known full-range speaker, I believe.

You mean spring chicken, don't you? Happy birthday, Amy! [<)][^][]

Do the Luxman or the B&K sound better than the Brystons? Have you tried using a single unbridged Bryston? High power in itself is not a bad thing, as long as you're careful with the volume control. Brystons have been described as being among the small group of high-power amps that still manage to sound transparent, plus they're very well-built and reliable. In my setup, I'm driving a pair of JubScalas with a pair of Yamaha MX-D1 power amps, each with 500Wpc, so that's 500 watts available to each tweeter and 500 watts available to each woofer. Sounds great even though it's usually running at one watt or less. Bottom line is, let your ears be your guide.

As I understand it (your newer receiver may be different), Pure Direct mode bypasses any processing, to minimize any interference with the sound signal. It does't do any converting. A 2-channel signal entering the receiver will come out as 2-channel (stereo), but if you have a 5-channel (for example) signal coming in, it should come out of the receiver as 5-channel, not stereo.

I just didn't want to second-guess Roy, who knows a very great deal more than I do about this stuff. I followed his directions and I'm very happy with the sound.

Personally, I prefer the term "obsessive", since it sounds less rude and may be more accurate in certain instances. Besides, wouldn't you want the mechanic who services your brakes or any surgeon who works on you to be obsessed with getting it right? I know I certainly would. When Roy sent me the Dx38 settings, I noticed that they were out of sequence, frequency-wise, and figured there must be a good reason. After some thought, I concluded that it was to prevent any interactions between PEQs that were fairly close together, like the 86 Hz and 90 Hz settings. Accordingly, I did it just the way Roy listed it.

The metal emblem fell off one of my Heresy II speakers and I used 2-sided adhesive tape to stick it back on. It stuck for about a year, then the badge fell off without leaving any residue on the grille cloth, so I stuck it back on with the same tape. It may be good for another year, then I may try silicone seal, which might adhere better to the cloth.

Before you spend any money, did you try just turning down the treble a bit and see if that sounds better to you? Depending on your room and speaker combination, any amp might need a bit of adjusting to sound its best to you. Also, if your Z11 has one of those impedance switches, make sure it's set to 8 ohms. If you set it to 4 or 6 ohms, you'll get thin bass. The 8 ohm setting is recommended with all speakers, regardless of their nominal impedance rating.

A multimeter will check resistance of a disconnected driver, but impedance of an operational speaker is a different matter, although both are measured in ohms. The setup for measuring impedance is a little more complicated, I believe.

Those indicators show what's going into the receiver, not what's coming out of it. If it's receiving a 2-channel signal from TV, for instance, and you listen in Dolby, DTS, or 7-channel stereo, you'll hear all the speakers, but it doesn't change what's going in from the source. Interestingly, last week I was watching 3:10 to Yuma (on regular DVD) and it was the first time the rear surround icon had lit up. Most DVDs are 5-channel and light up only the center, main, surround and LFE icons. To answer another of your questions, yes the sub will work when you're listening to a CD, unless your settings are incorrect. However, if your receiver has the same setup as my RX-V750 Yamaha, when you switch to Pure Direct, the sub switches off. For that reason, I rarely listen in Pure Direct.

Look into a Technics SL-1200 (or SL-1210 if you prefer black instead of silver). You can get a used MK2 or a new MK3 or MK5, all for under $500, maybe as low as $200. Good sound and very reliable. My 1978 SL-1400MK2 still works and sounds fine.

Is this somebody a dealer? I don't know what part of the world you're in, but in North America the RX-V740 is a receiver that was sold in 2004 and is no longer available, since several newer models have superseded it. My RX-V750 is a 2005 model. The Yamaha receiver should work fine in your system. Many forum members use Yamaha electronics to drive their Klipsch speakers. As for the subwoofer, it operates in the bass range below what normal speakers can easily reproduce and will let you hear the sounds of bass instruments more realistically than your main speakers can. Almost all speakers, even very expensive ones, can benefit from the assistance of a subwoofer.

msutton, you may think forum members are over-reacting to your posts, but reading your first post made it appear that you are a professional woodworker planning to manufacture Klipsch clones and looking for advice on pricing. As PrestonTom put it, you really did get off on the wrong foot. As for Jubilee pricing, the present price is a real bargain, since a more stylishly-finished version of that speaker, with that level of performance, should sell for more than double what Klipsch charges. Even rigma, who built himself a beautiful pair, commented that it would have been simpler and not much more costly to just buy a pair of Jubilees from the factory.

It's been reported in some audio magazines that Class D amps (the better ones, at least) have a sound that sort of bridges the gap between regular SS and tubes and is pleasant to listen to. I haven't heard a high-end tube setup, but I'm very happy with my Yamaha MX-D1 amps. They seem to be a great match for the JubScalas, complementing each other nicely.

Does your customer want to buy Klipsch clones from you because your prices will be lower than buying from a Klipsch dealer? Since your cost will be just your time and the necessary materials, without paying for the decades of science and engineering that went into these speaker designs, your clones could sell for less. However, Klipsch is not a long-gone company, it's still in business, so copying the factory's patented and trademarked designs for commercial purposes is quite possibly illegal. There are forum members who do restorations of classic Klipsch speakers, but manufacturing copies is a different story.

Now there's a cool desert survival kit: battery, small amp, iPod and La Scalas... [Y][Y][Y]

Since my living room is open to the hall on one side, there's no corner there for the right speaker. Accordingly, I kept the left speaker three or four feet out of its corner, so the bass response would be similar for both speakers. To get the most even bass response, the speakers are 4.5 inches from the wall, measured from the nearest corner of each one. For best treble response, they're toed in directly toward the listening position, the left cushion on the reclining sofa. It has two wide cushions, so it's like a sofa-length loveseat. The living room itself is 18' x 19'. This program, Arrange-a-Room, makes it easy to describe and visualize room layouts and speaker positioning. The box beside the left speaker is the sub, then comes the audio rack, then the TV. Next to that is the turntable cabinet, then the right speaker, then a small table against the wall and an LP-storage hassock. At the bottom of the diagram are the Heresy II surrounds.

Bruce is right, add a sub. You may be surprised how high you need to set the sub's roll-off, too. I get the smoothest response with my sub rolled off at 150Hz. When I used more typical settings like 70-90Hz, there was a noticeable dip in the upper bass. When you combine La Scalas with a good sub, you do get a great-sounding setup.

I can only speak for my case, but when I replaced the caps in my 1974 La Scalas, the improved clarity was immediately noticeable. I'm glad I did it.

KnuKonceptz sells copper, tinned copper and silver-plated copper speaker cables in various sizes. I'm using 8 gauge Karma Kable for my woofers and 10 gauge Karma Kable for the tweeters. It sounds much better than the cheap stuff I was using before and it's not very expensive, either. The SS refers to the colour, Smoke/Silver, a change from the earlier blue and silver. http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Speaker%20Wire http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?category=Karma%20SS%20Speaker%20Kable

A protractor will work, but if you try one of those laser levels (they can be set to project vertical or horizontal lines), you'll find it's way easier and faster and very easy to match one speaker's position with the other, which is more important than the specific angle. The ideal setting may well be 17 degrees or 28 degrees or something like that, so just use the laser to point the speakers where you want, without even having to consider how many degrees this way or that way.

Paradigm PW2100. 400 watts RMS, 1500 watts peak. Fairly flat down to 25Hz in my room and its 10-inch driver seems fast enough to keep up with the JubScalas (and when they were regular La Scalas). I chose the PW2100 over the 12-inch driver PW2200 (which has the same amp) because the 2100 was reputed to be better suited for playing music than its bigger brother, which is said to be better for movies, although I've watched many movies and never felt the 2100 to be inadequate.

That site has some interesting discussions and some interesting people, but there is some extreme crudeness, although it's supposed to be limited to the 'public bar' and 'mad zone' sections. Rudolph, the founder, is always trying to increase the membership, and seems to like joining any forum he can and spamming all the members until he gets banned.

I may be wrong, but I think those PA-type "subs" don't go nearly as low in the bass as a regular home audio sub. Horn subwoofers that go really low are huge and usually pretty expensive. AvantGarde makes one that you could look up to see what I mean.