bhenry

Super sweet.

Ceptorman- "I like the black Khorns." I agree!

If you're ever in Royal Oak, Michigan please feel free to stop by and listen to some Klipschorn's. Bring some rippers and beer.

Sorry to hear this. I was just discussing the "advantage" of having 4 subwoofers with Boxx. He seemed like a pretty swell guy. May he rest in peace.

I had one RSW15 in the living room at my other house that sounded awesome but I was never able to duplicate it when we moved until now. Even when I had two RSW15's I couldn't get it right (I think if I had put them where they sounded best instead of where they looked best they would have been great) but this set up is super impressive. I'm not in the same league as the Palladium crowd (nice sub, Boxx!) but I'm happy with my bass once again.

Neil, I've been in some of the most disgusting homes in the Metro Detroit area and I'm sure yours would pale in comparison! I'm taking some time off this week so maybe we could meet up.

Boxx, don't knock it 'till you try it! (Smiley face emoji implied here) I'm loving the four subwoofer thing.

jjptkd, I was starting to think that my Klioschorns might be kind of too much and thought about selling them and going with RF7II's but I have changed my mind. I'm keeping these behemoths!

Hey Neil, I have got to hear that! And you're right on with your assessment with having 4 subs, it took me some time to find the right placement but once I got them in the right locations it is fantastic. I have the THX Ultra 2's and they recommend putting them in pairs next to each other and I have to admit that they work best when set up that way. I ended up with two behind my couch and two next to my couch built into the wall (you'll see it soon) and it was so easy to set these up with the external amps and crossovers and the front firing allowed me to build them into the wall. I'm looking forward to hearing the Pono, it sounds like you are impressed with it.

Either Bose Acoustimass or Dr Dre Beats?

I joke.

That's what I was thinking, I could just put it back where it was if I had to. I think that it might also improve the imaging and realism if I moved the logo. By keeping them to the outside of each of the tweeters it will deflect the sound the same from each side toward the listener, rather than one side in and the other side out.

I do have the bottom logo. I wouldn't want two on each so I'd either leave them alone (most likely) or move one of them. I have seen set ups with them both in the same corner and I have seen them in opposite corners and I prefer the opposite corners. I probably will just leave them. Thanks for the advice.

I have a set of 2009 Klipshorn's and they both have the pie slice in the upper right corner and for no other reason than I think it looks odd, I'd like to move one of them. Am I correct to assume that they are just stuck on with adhesive and can be easily moved without leaving any marks or holes in the speaker cloth?

Actually, you used to be able to use the cold water as a ground until plastic plumbing came around (non-conductive, thus when/if a water pipe fails and someone were to replace it with plastic you would loose your ground), we now have to run a ground wire from the service back to the water meter then bond (jumper from the street side across to the house side of the water meter in case the water meter is ever removed) the water meter. Then install two ground rods also with a grounding conductor from the service.

You know what's funny, if you go to your breaker panel in your house, open up the door and then open up the thing where you can see the wiring that goes into all the breakers, and to the ground bus, you'll see something funny. Black = Hot White = Neutral Green = Ground The white and the green are connected to the same ground bus. If some piece of equipment on that circuit is inducing current onto either neutral or ground...this can be a source of hum that is heard. And it will effect EVERYTHING on that panel. Some stuff just doesn't care. Now, I'm not an electrician. So this is just friendly advice and steps I've taken to avoid ground loops in my ham radio equipment. It isn't the only solution. It is 1 step of a very frustrating process to eliminate background noise, hum, etc. The real solution is getting current off of neutral and ground. GFCI outlets pop when there is too much current on ground. Breakers do the same thing. Once the amperes get past a certain threshold, the circuit opens. GFCI's are for personal protection. BREAKERS are for conductor protection. A GFCI is VERY much different than a circuit breaker. A circuit breaker opens when there is an overheating of the conductor (dead short); a GFCI opens when it senses that current is going somewhere other than the return on the neutral conductor such as to ground through a human. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and the fact that all of your grounds and neutrals are bonded (or should be) at the panel is normal and would not contribute to this problem you are having.

I love the Godsmack! The little bit of Rush's Red Barchetta was sweet. Is that available on a Blue-ray somewhere?

Oh man, that sucks. I thought I lost my amp in the flood but was pleasantly surprised to find out that it survived. The thought of replacing that really bummed me out. I'm sorry that happened to you.

They are really bad quality. I won't use in any decent system. You must be mistaken.........it says "HIGH QUALITY" banana plugs.

You could use a power inlet (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=5278-C&section=41854&minisite=10251) then run a short extension cord (which is fine as long as it's not inside your wall) to connect it to your surge suppressor. Or, you could run a circuit and use a surge suppression receptacle (http://store.leviton.com/Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding-Indicator/dp/B00700RT8E#.VHANr908KrU) at the projector. Good luck.

I assume you don't have access above the ceiling, like an attic or a drop ceiling? If not, there is a product called "Wiremold" that is a type of "decorative" surface mounted conduit. And no, do NOT run an extension cord through a wall.

With the low-voltage lighting (typically) the conductor size has more to do with voltage drop than with load. If you have a relatively short run then the #14 should be fine. Here's some good information on how to go about installing your lighting: http://www.encorelandscapelighting.com/faq.html

Yes, the codes are vastly different now than they were in the 70's (before I was an electrician). There's no reason that you CAN'T oversize your conductors, but as someone who does this for a living (the original post is about low-voltage lighting and I'm not including that in this case) there are many reasons NOT to oversize your conductors. In 99.99% percent of residential applications, #14 is more than adequate. I have been in houses that have been converted from gas lighting to electric lighting (original wiring) that was run with #14 and is still in fine working order. I put the old, "I wired my house with 12 gauge" comment in the same league as the volunteer firemen that drive around in red pickup trucks with an a$$load of strobe lights all over them but then put their laptop in the passenger seat and head off to their office cubicle. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with either of those ways of thinking (and I have total respect for ALL firefighters!), and you can wire your own house however you chose. But I would charge significantly more that an additional $100 if someone hired me to wire their house using #12 minimum and it would take too long to explain why.

What a nice way to start my day. I'll have two lumps of sugar in coffee to honor this delightful photo. Thanks, tnr.

............oh wait, there's also a little thing called "box fill" to consider when wiring an entire house with #12. Just sayin'.