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jason str

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Everything posted by jason str

  1. Good read about those isolation products. >here<
  2. A 4 Ohm woofer does not stay 4 Ohm with this design, you can probably get by with your 8 Ohm rated amplifier if that's the case. As for the high pass, no you don't need it but you answered some of your own question, this will give you more options for best results when you go to dial things in.
  3. Use the recommended Dayton 10" driver. For the amp i recommend either getting a MINI DSP HD and use the amplifier you have or this Dayton DSP model. DSP will allow better adjustment and an option to high pass the mains for best results to assure you get the most out of your system.
  4. Let us know what driver you go with when you get to that point.
  5. Risers work best in conjunction with a subwoofer.
  6. I have used the Eminence Kappa 15C as well with great results.
  7. Cut down a milk crate to the proper height. I know you are not looking for DIY project but its easy,cheap and works well. Felt feet on top and bottom will prevent surface marring.
  8. 16 or 18 AWG stranded hook up wire.
  9. Depends on the room, corner placement is usually best but not always. You can experiment when you get to that point.
  10. Improper placement will cause a null in frequency response, if possible fire it into a boundary for best results. Near field placement is not a great choice in my experience using horn loaded subs.
  11. As long as the horn mouth is between 18"- 2 1/2 feet from a boundary ( depending on the crossover point) to avoid a null it would work fine.
  12. Subs in a hatchback with the rear seat down works just like a horn along with the added cabin gain can work very well. A 10" driver is really not recommended in the THT though it will work, better if used in the Table Tuba design and the recommended driver is very reasonable in fact less expensive than the little 6.5" driver in the little tapped horn mentioned earlier with far greater output.
  13. The only advantage to that tapped horn is its small size. Probably fine in a smaller room at lower outputs. If you do decide to build one don't include the padding on the bends, it serves no purpose. Max output would be similar to 1 watt through the Belles but it would be struggling by that point.
  14. Just like the Communists in China would do.
  15. The front firing THTLP will work if you have 6 + foot ceiling height. Don't underestimate the Table Tuba as an option.
  16. The Tuba 18 is not worth adding as it really does not dig much lower than your mains. I suggest a 10" or better Table Tuba or THT in the corner and not the THTLP unless you plan on laying it down firing it into a corner, sloped ceilings are not the best place for the horn to exit.
  17. Bill is a member of many forums, he probably reads the forum here. Maybe somebody said something, i don't know but many forum members have done business with him that i know of and could be many more but to blame me is just wrong. You want to make an *** out of yourself that's fine but leave me out of it.
  18. At least you admit it now leave me out of your games.
  19. Sad assumption, i come here to help and learn. I recommend Bill's products because they work just as i recommend Klipsch where i can.
  20. On the lower part of the THT page it lists the Tuba low profile version hence the THTLP and there are 2 versions, end firing and front firing. All work the same, choose witch version that fits your space best.
  21. Upfiring or down does not matter, whatever works best in your space. Use Arauco or or BB, avoid MDF. I recommend the 15" Dayton driver in the plans.
  22. Leave the interior volume within +/- 10 % and you will be fine, just re figure the cabinet in bookshelf dimensions.
  23. I don't blame you. Not sure about weight and would hate to guess, it would take 2 guys to lift as its bulky.
  24. Kind of rude to list at one price and then raise it, don't know what to say to you.
  25. $ 500 is less than it would cost to build one out of BB, it would be silly not to purchase.
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