jason str

Might be his lighting and van but everybody knows he prefers bose pro audio products .

LaScala's should not be used as earrings or headphones, doing so may cause pain and discomfort. Many, many more than 17 pages here about those who love them, driving them with the right gear makes a difference.

Great stuff. Talking heads has many worthy tracks as well among many others.

Alex, i predict a JubScala in your future. If you like the natural midbass peak of the LaScala bass bin you may be back for more. Do listen to as many systems as you can though to be sure you are content with your system, its time well spent.

Jason, Michael didn't even know it was called "The Motengator", let alone what the initials stood for. My buddy Kevin Harmon gave him the Motengator name for them. Kevin got his info from his buddy Roy Delgato. Roger I would have guessed working for Klipsch Michael would have been part of "The circle of trust" crowd. However i did not know about the mythical creature part.

I do remember Michael using that term in previous posts, its hard to remember everything. My brain holds only so much information and if i have to remember this i will need to get rid something else like 18436572 or 9046861556, you probably know the first one being a gearhead and the second number is a old girlfriend's phone number from 25 years ago. I'm bad with remembering peoples names too.

Acer has always been bottom of the barrel products. Like most things in life, you get what you pay for and sometimes even less.

MWM bass bins is what i meant in my first post in this thread and not MCM i apoligize for my mistake. Sucks getting old & forgetful.

Some people prefer one brand over the other but its not something that needs high strength just attatching panels. I use Titebond normally but have used many other brands with good results.

The DTS-10 does not play nicely up to the frequency where the LaScala starts rolling off + the THT offers lower distortion and he already has one. I'm not a real Klipschorn fan myself and have heard them on many occasions with many types of gear and in lots of settings. There are tradeoffs in everything audio and its nice to get lots of opinions but to be sure you get what you really like its best to hear it for yourself.

If you are not worried about endgrain just prep your cabinet ( repair what needs to be repaired with Bondo and block sand ). Start with a side and an end of your sheet to best match your grain pattern and work your way around, if there needs to be a patch panel with non matching grain save it for the bottom where its less likely to be noticed. Wood glue your panels and clamp to cabinet ( no brads or nails are needed ) then use your router with a flush trim router bit to trim off excess panel overhang. Use edgebanding for the front cabinet endgrain if you have grilles. If you are going for a look with no endgrain its best to use veneer, its possible to 45 degree the plywood corners and get them lined up but its easier and better to use veneer face.

Preamp or receiver is the easy way. If you dont have it built in there are other options available.

I agree with you on the Khorn, Lascala & CF-4 in the bass sound assessment. Jubilee bass bins are nice but do not offer anything above and beyond the sound of the Lascala except some extension in low frequency. Now the mids are a whole different story but we are talking bass here. Get yourself a set(s) of Lascala's to pair with your THT and cross them over @ 100 Hz and you will have yourself a sweet sounding setup. If you still want an upgrade from there and have the room move up to a set of MCM's.

Very nice veneer inlay work. If it was a pair i could see the price skyrocket.

Horn loaded subs work well with any speakers, you don't need horn loaded mains to enjoy the benefits of a horn loaded subwoofer. Good luck with your sale.

Delay is not needed in the subwoofer bandpass unless you have 20 feet or more horn length. This goes for tapped horns as well. If delay was an issue with horns in the subwoofer bandpass the whole concept and design of the tapped horn would be worthless.

Duratex comes in any color you want, they don't have to be black.

The Dayton is the better built of the two but the Yung has more phase adjustment options. As for witch one will last longer its a coin toss.

I'm not a fan of having subs placed behind me but if you cross it over low enough you may be OK. The only way to know if it will to be to your liking is to try it out. The lower you cross it over the harder it will be to tell where the bass is coming from, experimentation is key.

When the websight was updated recently many things were in disarray, this just being one of those things.

Not so sure about that. I am sure, if you are using the Klipsch Chorus websight pages for information on the specifications it is listed wrong.

Chorus i & II were rated at 400 watts RMS and 1000 watts peak. How much power you need depends on how loud you listen and room size more than anything. A 20 WPC amp will drive Chorus models well but if you like it loud 200+ watts per channel is better, the K-48 woofer welcomes the extra power and the speaker comes alive at higher volumes.

The Klipschorn bass bin would work as a subwoofer, there is no reason why it would not. It may roll off slightly higher than a slim Table Tuba but if you have a good place to put it why not give it a try.

Why not try your hand at veneer ?

Sorry about your sick father in law, hope he goes peacefully. My family members are dropping off as well and its a sad sight to behold.