jason str

LaScala's will easily outperform the Chorus, Chorus II in the loudness department though the midrange in the LaScala starts to sound congested once you really throw some power to them. LaScala with a good horn loaded subwoofer is where its at with any type of music you can throw at it.

More stuff added soon.

Used Oak finished Table Tuba, very good condition & little use. Loaded with Dayton DCS255-4 34" wide 25" high Looking to trade for Heritage Klipsch or maybe Klipsch pro gear.

long style Table Tuba. Sold Loaded with RE Audio REX8S4 16" wide x 15" deep x 60" long $375 Finish it your way or i can finish it any way you like for additional charge.

I agree with artto, keep the Sony ES. Never heard that particular receiver but owned many Sony ES products and they all were quality great sounding products.

100 watts is plenty but nothing wrong with more power if you listen at high volumes, Any good external amplifier will be an upgrade to what your receiver puts out. $1000 on the used market will get you where you want to be with no problems.

I disagree with previous statements about Adcom amplifiers, while not every Adcom amp is great they do have some great products that i would choose over all others though Anthem amps are great also. The GFA 5500 coupled with the 5503 is a great pick for 5 channel or the GFA 7705 5 channel amp would be another good one though its a newer model and would probably be above your bidget on the used market. Not an Emotiva or Parasound fan myself but do like the newer Marantz amps and reference integrated is very nice but its big bucks even on the used market. Never heard any Sherbourn products that i can recall so can't comment on that.

I would be happy to build for you but its best to find somebody in your neck of the woods as i would guess shipping may be quite high.

There are a few out there but they are best suited for pro sound applications. The Klipsch KPT-1802 is an option but its freakin huge ( big as 2 full size THT's) Your best bet is a DIY design, build it yourself or have an experienced builder do it for you for best results.

Horn loaded subwoofers work well with all main speakers as they are much lower in distortion thus sound better. The only down side is size, luckily there are many options available to fit in just about any room. Even an 8" loaded table tuba will outperform your 15" Klipsch sub.

Yoy will need to reinstall all your software if you change your motherboard.

According to your link you provided your mainboard does not support the 7 series processor.

Everything depends on mainboard support & socket type, more information is needed for an answer.

Altec VOT really maxed out in seventies as huge halls were the norm - by the mid eighties - they were gone , too big - too monstruous - the biggest sub man ever built was the A4 - -the staff used to sit in the cab to feel the bass -it would rattle the fillings out your teeth The horn path looks too short to be any good for use as a subwoofer, may be a decent bass bin but the older Altec drivers i have heard ran out of steam rather quickly and we had quite a few on the block ( Dad had the Altec Valencia's )

The Qts is a bit high on the 15" & 18" versions to be used in a horn loaded applications. Better suited in direct radiating models IMHO.

I did some plotting with this driver early last year, it really is a beast. Also used a few other RE- Audio products in other builds, the quality is decent and would not hesitate recommending their products to others

The difference between the models will be low end extension. The Tuba home theater (THT) and Table Tuba can be built in different width's 12" - 36" wide, the wider the width the flatter the response, lots of driver options available. The F-20 is basically a re-folded THT although a slightly longer horn path and uses the same or very similar driver options as the THT. The F-20 uses 3/4 " material & the Tubas 1/2" and uses bracing to keep resonances at bay 2 different versions of the THT & TT are available, the snail shell type and the long style version. Choose the model that fits your needs as there will be no difference in sound between the two designs. Any of the above models will have no problem using 100 Hz for a crossover.

If you need subwoofers under your mains build two minimum width THT subwoofers, at 15" its your best option. Another option is to build a THT with a 10" driver for an even slimmer profile. If you have woodworking experience the build is not that hard and the plans are very detailed.

P.M. sent

Experimenting is good fun but what I'm saying is don't expect to change a design that countless hours have been spent perfecting without spending lots of time and cash on a project that may or may not sound better than it did in the first place.

I only have one or two cubic feet to spare for a subwoofer in this one particular area to accompany my refrigerator size speakers, witch one would you recommend ?

I agree, you can't just change your driver configuration and expect things to sound good without crossover modifications.

Sad news indeed, Boxx will be missed.

Read this. Lots of basic information and help.

The RB-41 II is a good choice for a smaller pair of bookshelf speakers but lacks in low end so a good sub is almost essential for great music reproduction. What to look for in a subwoofer is something that sounds good in the higher frequencies (50-100 Hz) and does not get sloppy and/or muddy, the small woofer in the 41's should be crossed over at a higher frequency as the little woofers of the 41's will struggle down low. Your sub will benefit by being placed between the mains as bass notes becomes easier to tell where they are coming with the higher crossover setting. My advise is to go spend some time at some stereo outlets and audition subs that blend nicely with your choice of main speakers or something very similar, most people only worry about specs and getting the lowest notes possible but i feel the transition from mains to sub is much more important.