Pete H

Second picture of the 15's and in order from top left going clockwise we have the K48K, the Kappalite, K34E and the Crites CW1526C

I knew you would find this thread and I believe the term you used when I purchased these is "muddied" and I would have 2 agree. It seems like they are mismatched to the 250's in regards to output and that there's a problem with the crossover design because the 250's are screaming when the 115's are not pushing out comparative DB's. I'm going to post a picture of the various 15's I have and if we're strictly looking at how stout the drives are the K 48 is a grizzly bear in regards to magnet size and overall weight. I've searched the TS specs on the 48 and found a couple on the forum, but they don't match up so I can't directly compare the data but taking the information I have and plugging it into some basic box calculator programs that I found on line produce completely different ported configurations and cabinet volumes and when I try to back into the 115's box configuration it doesn't ever come up to the ports and volume that they have. Please keep in mind there are volumes of information that I don't have a clue about, but I do know what I hear and with the amount of speakers I have that are known quantities as well as builds that have been run against RF 7's and stock Cornwalls I think I can discern the difference between what sounds right and what doesn't. I could take the K 48 and stick it in one of the Cornscala bass cabinets (split design) and see how it does, although that will be a real PITA and I would rather ask the question "how does the K 48 compare to other 15" drivers and does it perform in other application" the answer to that question would at least narrow down the possible problems with the 115.

Fantastic! I would be spending many hours in the shop with Dad.

Not trying to jack this thread, but I've never personally seen this with the exception of my spud, but I think that is a different set up all together, so when and why is this used?

crossover Just a note on the box; there's only about 3.3 cu' of volume to the box.

Crossover removed

Driver Removed showing damping foam.

I just can't hear much of anything coming from them, and they are working, but the tops completely overpower them. I took one of them apart last night and was shocked at the amount of foam damping material that was inside the box and the long port length. I'm going to post some picks and play one of the 115's against one of my ported cornscala bass cabinets, but I'm pretty sure that there's not going to be much of a comparison so that comes back to the questions regarding possible issues with the drivers or the crossover or the cabinet. I totally agree that the specs are pretty good on the box and on paper it should sound better than it does. I do have a few other 15's K34 E, Crites Cast Frame, and Eminence Kappalite 15's.

I"m sure it's not for a lack of trying. If I ever knew that someone designed and sent out these scams and viruses, I would literally bury them in the rear of the property.

That's exactly what I liked about it was all the controls built right in, but wasn't sure of the company and reputation of the amp so I've been a little leery. I'm looking to use it on my spud.

I picked up a pair of 115's along with a couple pair of KP250's and it's time to do something with them to get ready for spring. I really like the 250's but they have to get some good bottom end and the 115's suck (there's just no nice way to put it). My question is could a simple driver swap make it work or is this just a really bad ported box. I have no experience with these except for plugging them in and giving them a listen, but the bottom end of my little RP 3's with powered 10's kills the low end of the 115's, they really are bad. I'm all ears.

I hope I didn't miss what you may have said about the amp but can you tell me what you think of this amp so far?

It's a shame that there are still people out there that fall for this kind of stuff, but when you really think about it, the biggest scam that has happened in recent years would be when over 60 million people all got scammed on the same day.

You aint right, you know that don't you. LMAO, that is one great picture.[Y]

I've asked this before and I will ask it again since everyone seems to be talking about setting up and eq'ing subs. What are the basics for measuring the room and then measuring the sub in the room? I've done a few builds but I've NEVER done any measurements and I will stress that I'm looking for the Crayola explanation. I've done some searches on the forum and maybe I just missed the beginners guide to measurements and if so, just point me in that direction and it would be great.

The wild man from the West Coast is at it again. Looks very good as your work always does. Where does this crossover at? "Bass is excellent", can you expand on that since you have built and listened to many different speakers that have very good bass.

If you can run a dedicated 20amp circuit with 12/2 you should be fine with what you describe. I just did this about 6 months ago and ran 2 20amp dedicated for the HT and have a 15amp close that has no more load than a couple of lamps so while that may be more than most, I won't ever have an issue with running multiple amps and a lot of other equipment.

446 Turn it up louder and you won't notice some of the other things on the list. 447 Get your alcohol balance correct prior to turning any of your equipment on. 448 Have a really bad system that you listen to for 15 minutes prior to listenting to your main system.

Well since there seems to be a trend to just chase shiny things around the room, I'm going to throw one out and see where this goes. The Onkyo 805 has developed a glitch in the main R channel that isn't any of the connections and it's time to go pre pro anyway so now I have an excuse. I'm going to give some parameters and personal preferences and ask for some input from my people; in case you didn't hear, the pope died and I was elected; well actually it was a coup.[6] Must be 9.1 or 9.2 (that's what I wired for in the remodel.) I would like to keep this purchase under $1,000 and I purchase a lot of equipment used or refurbished. I would prefer balanced outputs but it's not a deal breaker. I might watch a movie every 2 weeks so this is still primarily about audio although I want solid HT performance since with the present set up I won't go to the theater as it doesn't come close to watching it at home. I'm pretty sure that anything that is 9.1 or more will have plenty of connectivity (HDMI, Optical, Internet.......) so that's probably not a concern. I've never been thrilled with the audio performance of the 805 compared to some of my other systems so I'm not stuck on any brand and brand X is fine too if it's reliable.[]

i think Pete was die recting this thread toward me when i apparently offended some Mitsubishi RPTV owners.No, not specific to your comments about Mitsubishi, not directed to those that think if you don't own heritage you don't have real Klipsch, not directed to people that hate behringer, bose, sony, or anything else; just a general observation.

Good for you! Teaching your kids that society's rules are a guideline is a great thing and sometimes you need to watch Ferris Bueller's Day Off, is just as great when it's all within the boundaries. Hope you caught a great flick!

After a few years on this forum it still blows me away that when I read a new post from a person that is asking for an opinion there are those that think they are expert enough to tell you what an idiot you are if you purchase "X". Get a grip on life and try and post your opinion in a constructive and meaningful way, or if you are the worlds authority on anything relevant to the post, please scan your credentials in so we can all praise your accomplishments. I'm the first one to joke around and be sarcastic, but when someone that doesn't have thick skin asks for suggestions can you please keep your " this is what I did so it has to be right " attitude in check. Just remember that not everyone has the means that you might have, and beyond that, it's all about what puts a smile on your face, not what you think will put a smile on others. Have a wonderful day!

OK, I'm going to try and put this in a very respectful perspective; first of all I wouldn't purchase any TV for my main system without viewing it and comparing it to the others I was considering; and I just purchased one about a month ago. Second on my list would be that all that matters when you make that decision is that it's right for you and you're happy with the purchase and you can take the reviews and others opinions and throw them out the window with the exception being the service issues related to a particular model and the companies response to real issues. My decision on what to purchase had to do with what I was looking for and what I liked and I looked at everything from the DLP's to the Samsung LCD's and the Panasonic plasmas and all in one store where I could adjust everything and look at the picture the way I thought it was dialed in properly. I choose a panasonic VT25 because of my viewing angle requirements, the deal that I got on a model that has been replaced and most importantly the fact that the picture (In my opinion and that's all that mattered) was much better than the others that I compared it to, regardless of the price. I looked at the Mitsubishi 73 and 82 and 92 in the 700 and 800 series, I looked at the Samsung 7000 and 8000 series LCD's along with all the Sony's, LG's and Sharps but for me this was an easy decision based on my needs, preferences and budget. Decide on the basics first, what's the minimum size that you're willing to live with, your normal lighting during viewing, what refresh rate you need to satisfy your normal viewing, your budget (knowing that 6 months after you purchase it it's going to be much cheaper), but most importantly you need to consider what you like in regards to the picture. I'm drawn to plasma in general because I feel it offers a more natural picture and for my viewing situation and preferences, but that doesn't mean that it is right for you. Whatever you decide on, I'm Happy for you and won't bash your decision and if you allow that to happen on here after you lay out 2,000-4,000 of your hard earned money, then shame on those that decide they know what's better for you than you do.[:$]

Nice rack Rudy! Can you remember not so long ago when you had a pair of K Horns and life was simple? I think one of the first posts I read by you was about wanting a little more punch in the bass and you were going to build something..............................How many pieces and how many dollars ago was that?[Y]

It's worth trying if you're going to move the shelf anyway, but I don't see it working based on how much air is blowing on the active 15 unless the cabinet hole was sealed and air tight, but then again, who knows and you can try it out and then the next person will have a better idea.