Modified-Tractrix

I will give the same advise I give many that find the upper boundaries of the consumer klipsch line. Your ears will suffer for it, but you need to look into klipsch pro cinema or some used JBL gear. sound pressure will not be a problem with those designs and they will do it day in and day out. The ultimate would be something like a KPT-942-4-T http://www.klipsch.com/kpt-942-4-t

It depends on the horn and if you go active or passsive. The 402 (larger horn with k-69) is about 1K ea., the 510 (smaller horn with k-69) goes for a little over half that. The EV DC One active will set you back about 700 or so and passives can be anywhere from 200 and up depending on the parts quality. You will need to contact Roy Delgado to get the ball rolling at

Those look great. Nice work.

Most of the RHCP albums suffer from the horrid effects of the loudness war and are unlistenable.

I usually seek out amplfiers rated at 2.5 to 3 times what the speakers are rated at, so 250-300 channel for a 100 watt speaker. This method gives plenty of power for music crests and has never resulted in a blown speaker at my home.

I have a pair like those. It's a ferrite version of the K-55-V. Some don't like them, but mine sound great. Also, I can't remember for sure, but I think the have the split phase plug like the K-55-V's from that era so they go up a little higher and cleaner than the non-split phase plug K-55's. About the only driver I have not seen in a cornwall, but very well could have been made, is a K-55-M. The EV 1824 is the rarest driver I have seen in a late 60's or newer cornwall.

Interesting paper, thanks for the link. It sounds like some used JBL drivers with the new Be diaphragms from truextent could be a good solution.

That is a very nice system, well done! [Y]

Moray, my I ask, where did you get the information that the titanium diaphragms are flat out to 20K and the phenolic rolls of above 12K? were they actual measurements or listening tests?

Maybe I am taking an overly simplistic viewpoint of this, but Roy used the Grand HF for the top end which uses the 510/K-69 combination. I would think if the 402/K69 did better in that application that he would use it there.

Did you get those jubs from Travis?

I thought it was for Klipsch Gillum...

The rear mount passive makes a big difference, but the real heavy hitter was the switch from the k-600 horn to the tractrix mid horn.

No real reason to buy speakerlabs with the deals that can be had on real klipschorns lately. The pair I had failed miserably in side to side tests with my klispchorns. I think most of the speakerlab kit builders thought close was good enough for the construction. My theory is that due to the bifurcated nature of the klipschorn, construction must be very precise to avoid massive cancellations when the paths merge. Unfortunately, my speakerlabs are now landfill fodder...

The Chorus II is better than a Cornwall and one of the finest speakers Klipsch made. With the prices the way they are lately, they are a true bargain. You give up a little low bass slam, but they are less colored sounding. A good sub makes it a slam dunk.

Just buy a few sets of Bose 802s and add the panaray sub system. You will get some good street cred with that type of system.

The K-31-K might not be available. However the K-31-E is and is built to the same spec., just made be Eminence and of better quality.

Yes, you will still have access to all your parametric settings and the high and low shelve. Hopefully you have enough memory left to enter everything you need.

Rudy, I don't have mine in front of me right now, but as I recall when in the EQ menu you have a cloice of parametric, HP, and LP, the HP and LP refer to high and low pass shelve filters. It is a shame they are not labled correctly but if you go in to the high and low pass filter area it sould give you all the right choices to set up the shelve.

If you can afford the new RF-7's, why not buy new and support the company we love.

If once you start down the dark path, forever will it dominate your destiny.

Woops, you are right Mike. My mistake, it appears I had a case of bad recall. It should be even easier to paint the horn then.

The 402 is a tool, and this particular tool is very very good at its job. I don't care how it looks, that being said it looks very good to me. You should be able to paint it with any high quality automotive paint with good results. Are you looking to sand it down smooth or paint over the textured finish?

Al, If you want the best of both worlds perhaps you should fire up your calculator and design a 1.5" class horn. It is obvious from looking at the state of the art drivers from most manufacturers that the focus is heading that way. Just look at the better drivers from BMS, B&C, JBL...that have invested heavily in this format. Most company's 2" drivers use the same driver with a short horn section to get to 2". Much good can come from a 1.5" driver with the phase plug much closer to the throut of the horn. As a side benefit, the mighty klipschorn could find its way back to two-way with the right driver.

Killer Clown, The K-703 is a fine horn and should not be replaced. It also should accept quite a few quality 1" drivers as it is used in the pro cinema line as the HF part of the KPT-335-HF/MF with a different driver. You could probably purchase a P-Audio like this one http://www.usspeaker.com/paudio%20bmd450-1.htm and have something very similar. You would most likely need to change the crossover frequency and attenuation to match but that should not be too bad to do.