pzannucci

I ended up getting quite busy with other stuff and could not get by to the Salvation Army near me. The others will be out of the question for the next few weeks.

Sounds like your amp didn't like the impedance of not having the tweeter in the circuit. Since that choke is across the tweeter line, the speaker may have been operating at close to a dead short. I'm not sure without measuring but from the sounds of it, not good.

I will have to go to the one not to far from me. There are four stores in about 30 miles so I will have to see if I am ambitious. Since it is ebay, they are probably looking for bids.

Looks like it may be worth $299 though they do need lots of work and at least one woofer. Look closely and one looks like it was smashed on the lower right. For $435 with the woofer and a couple of cans of spray paint, might be a deal.

BTW, I was joking about the $750. They are $500 for the pair plus shipping if needed. I have all packing and they are fairly light, about 8 to 10lbs each for shipment.

Actually BC didn't use that much in the original M300s, mostly stuff to stop RFI problems (ferrite and such). Now the REF1000 MKII uses different input boards to help with impedance matching. These actually aren't wimpy amps that need to be moved to surround duties unless you have an 82db monster load speaker. They will drive most anything. I was asking $500 for the pair plus work out shipping, local sale better but.... Guess I asked too little. Probably should have asked $750.

Hello, I have a beautiful pair of Murano Audio Mono-block Amplifiers for sale. Asking $500. These amplifiers are in pristine condition with very little use. These amplifiers sound excellent and can drive serious speaker loads They are designed around the Bang Olufsen IcePower 200ASC modules. These modules are the same as used in the Bel Canto M300 amplifiers which cost many times more than my asking price. The amplifiers run very cool (of course), have both RCA and balanced inputs, and have very nice binding posts. I am selling these since I have too many amplifiers, including the 500 Watt mono-block version of the Murano Audio IcePower amplifiers and Bel Canto REF1000 amps. These IcePower amps are cool running, powerful amplifiers and are great for tube sound without the tube heat. Big plus over tubes is that they have very good bottom end slam They are rated at 100 Watts @ 8 ohms, 200 Watts @ 4 ohms. You can look at the Bang Olufsen site for additional information on the modules used. These Amplifiers produce very tight bass and crisp highs. They are excellent with efficient speakers such as Klipsch, JBL, or older Altecs. The pair, especially since they are mono-blocks, are an excellent value. Reviews of the Bel Canto M300 utilizing the same amplifier modules: http://stereotimes.com/amp111307.shtml http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue26/belcanto_m300.htm You can come listen to them hooked to KLF-30s in Central Texas or we can work out shipping if needed. Let me know if interested. Thanks.

I probably would have stayed with the consecutive serial number myself. Much more likely the components are a closer match. We know from time to time things change in manufacture and to get two that are within proximity would be better. If they look and sound the same (key), the worst issue is someone toke it out, looked at it and said, "too big". Doubtful they tried it if they didn't unpack the pair, so off the pair go back to Klipsch. So they were both sold just one opened. The key is visual and sound inspection. Now you may get an RF7 that has a small tweak in the specs.

Since the horn dimensions are based on areas over a particular distance, if you understand the math to get the areas then you should be able to use the simple for the area of a ellipse. Just google and you will get calculators.

A most accurate statement. Just talk about k-horns for one, why does half this forum have a different horn for the mids? Because that's how they came from the factory... Or did you mean why have most here swapped out their Mid range horns on their K horns? The latter. I'm not sure who would have changed the horn just because they wanted to modify the dispersion. K400s did the job but... It all depends on the implementation.

A most accurate statement. Just talk about k-horns for one, why does half this forum have a different horn for the mids?

It will depend on the hardware as to which sounds better. Also there has been discussion on other forums about hdmi being the worst transfer as far as jitter and other digital issues. Digital through Toslink or S/PDIF may be better in your particular instance. Also the software and source files play a lot as to capabilities, multi-channel, bit loss, etc. The only problem with Toslink and S/PDIF is that they can't pass encoding such as DTS-HD Master or Dolby TrueHD. In your instance this might not matter. Also many times these are converted to LPCM from computers. Another worry and potential issue when using HDMI.

MDF in KLFs seems to be in line with the rest of the Klipsch line. Just bracing all the way around the cabinet is lacking. Based on the weight and same components, I would say Klipsch skimped on the bracing and vinyl enclosure (unless 5/8 vs 3/4" though doesn't seem likely). Forte a little smaller - 56lbs Tangent 5000 65lbs. KLF 30 102lbs and KLF-20 over 86lbs. As for the problem with the tweeter(s), it could be cooked or it is time to refresh the crossover network.

And you can control how much stain you put down based on wood penetration. Poly w/stain is much harder to work with and everything needs to be super clean to even come close to a nice finish. That said you can actually wipe on the poly and wipe it off but you need to be very careful and not let it start to set up. I have done that with oak ply and it did a real nice job sealing it.

Don't use the poly, use the oil. Make sure the boards are sanded very well. Apply the oil, let set 10/15 mins, wipe off. Do again to your liking. It is too easy to mess it up using the polyshades. Also, doing the oil, you can use #0000 steelwool which will make the finish on the wood ultra smooth if you buff it nicely during application. Top off with spray urethane, satin or whatever you like after a few days of the oil drying.

I know the Mark Va's used to have piezo tweeters. The later V's changed to soft dome. Could be very late 70's, early 80's before they disappeared.

Yes, caught that too. Marketing office blunder. My KLF-30s sit a few feet in from the corners that K-horns lived in for over 10 yrs. They are on the small furniture dollies that Harbor Freight sells (about 5 inches off the floor). Makes them easy to move when I swap out the very large speakers I have. I can say there is nothing missing in the bass department, even compared to the khorns. There is one area on the KLFs that need a little help and that is just below midrange cut off. If that could be dropped down a little (not sure if the horn will handle it) and the woofers peak in that area smoothed, they would be in another league. I haven't had to mess with the tweeter or anything since the room is 22'x20' and wide open to the back. My original pair I sold to a buddy of mine, I needed to tame the tweeters because the room was much smaller.

Depends on design, height off floor, and the woofer's required loading. Interesting it talks about the lowest octave and shows a La Scala. They do need all the help they can get so it makes sense to have the closest to quarter or eighth space loading.

Glad you like the sound you have. Your room probably dictates much of the sound.

I believe they are also there to stop some of the internal diffraction / reflections from propagating out the horn. Opposed sides and sharp corners are not good. I believe that is one of the reasons that there was a lot of discussion on 30ppi reticulated foam in "Wave Guides". Has anyone gone down this path other than maybe djk from the sounds of it? I line the bottom side of my KLF-30's horn with 1/4" open cell foam and it appears to clean things up that I attributed to either the crossover point or tweeter. It was odd but works very well.

Third order bessel gets you in the ballpark. Remember this is not straight resistance, it is inductance and impedance. Depending on the true values at those frequencies, the impact of acoustic roll off, tuning by ear, etc., text book values may not be usable. Since you have two caps with an inductor in the middle, that typically implies you are going for a third order electrical rolloff. Who knows what the actual acoustic is (or crossover point) because it depends on the drivers interaction and frequency responses.

Assuming "dampening" is the same as "damping" .... I remember McIntosh bragging that their 60 watt mono tube amp had a damping factor of 12! Nah!!!! Brain fade really... The 12 they used to brag about barely holds the woofer taught (I'm going to get beat up here ). Might have even had a fair amount of frequency variation with the speaker impedance due to the output's.

It's easy to understand the grip vs power statement if you have owned a bunch of different amplifiers. One comparison is something like a Rogue Audio 88 or my Jolida 801 tube amps I used to have compared to a Murano Audio P200s amps I had at the time as the Rogue. Arguably the Rogue may have more headroom than the P200s IcePower amp (100w at 8ohm vs 60w tube at 8ohm) because of soft clipping and the Rogue was slated to sound more SS than Tube. Well the Murano amps would trounce the Rogue on the bass, mid-bass lines because it was faster, tighter (not nearly as loose - boomy/bloated but not there) as the tube amps - just more there. This was easily evident at 1 or 2 watts with KLF-30s to Khorns. So when I think grip I think of bass mostly. That is where the power, topography, and dampening (something tube amps don't have) come into play. Tubes can do the mids and highs better than a lot of inexpensive SS equipment due to taking off the edge much SS has. Some people like it but some people don't. I can even compare the P200s amps to a new Pioneer SC-1222 (same amps as their Elite receivers - D3 based on Ice) and even in that configuration, you can immediately tell the difference in the control. The Pioneer, though slated to be one of the best sounding AVRs I have heard (along with some mags) when paired with the right speakers, doesn't keep up. The real item here is component synergy. Once you hear real grip on the bottom end, you won't want to give it up

As the saying goes, Google is your friend (so is the search button).

You hit that right on the head. Many under 10K a pair speakers can blow you away. Moving to 30K very likely won't yield 2% improvement. Once you get into this range, 99% of the time you are talking about statements, not sound. Even in the 2k range there is a ton of used stuff out there or even building yourself, I wouldn't be looking at Zu.... IMHO.