pzannucci

He needs the backs enclosed or wings. Additionally some folks take the tops off. The tops are a portion of the horn (at least the bottom plate). Make sure they are kept on or a similar piece of wood is used to complete the horn for best response.

If I remember correctly, the back of the driver is just hollow. To avoid the possible influence at certain frequencies of the chamber and notches or noise from the chamber, I added foam padding into it. The 250x can sound very good, price notwithstanding. Mine are connected to 511's with a small amount of foam layering a portion of the horn throat to remove some echo on horn entry. Mids (600-4K+) are better than many horns I have heard.

If djk is right in the other thread, that may be your answers. If you are looking for only subwoofer output (and in fact not very deep), that driver may work for you. Don't let the sensitivity fool you as you are working with very low impedance loads unless you parallel the leads. The measuring is not stated in the basic information. If you have the money to tie up and are looking to do a horn sub that only goes down to k-horn territory, try them. As long as you get them tested in 45days you can return them if you don't like the results. Based on the specs though, it would seem the target is car audio.

Yes, what is a trio.... Third in the blood line? The x can sound very good especially if you fix the hollow chamber.

Where are all these old topics coming from? Many are interesting and maybe this is Klipsch's way of mining for new ideas. There are some interesting items starting to show up. I guess it is better than thinking I am in another dimension.

A good point The actual size of the boards is 18.5" X 14.5" (470mm x 370mm) And the distance between the large coils is from memory 8.66" (220mm) at the centres I haven't collected them yet but can confirm when they are in front of me This distance is baced on Troels Gravasens recommend distances If the crossovers display issues during testing we will rotate Ah, didn't realize the size from the picture. I took another look and saw the size of the wire cutters - got it

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#0000 steel wool with polish off the surface nicely though if you have some wood splintering (from the sounds of it), may not be the best way to go. If some splintering, put a couple of coats of tung oil on with a t-shirt material (light cotton), buff out after recommended time. This should seal and harden the surface. Additional coats using steel wool should work better than. Steel wool will make the finish very smooth and give reasonable luster.

Why did you not rotate one of the inductors 90 degrees? They are close enough to cause mutual inductance and are the design specs including that inductance?

I use old comforters for testing purposes since we always have these on hand - and you can fold them up into smaller sections to listen for differences. I'd also recommend placing something on top of the speakers that's acoustically absorptive to listen for any differences -- this is due to the collapsing polar midrange horn that loses pattern control below about 1.7 KHz down to the midrange-bass bin crossover frequency. Placing something on top will affect the timbre of the speaker, as well as placing anything within 4 feet of them horizontally or vertically. They say a picture is worth a thousand words... Chris Excellent ideas

Hello, I have several horns and drivers for sale. They are for local pickup only near Austin, TX due to the price and I just want to clean up / clean out. I will ship but due to size and weight, it will be expensive. Also it would be COD, no PayPal. 2 - Selenium d305ti drivers - http://www.parts-express.com/selenium-d305ti-2-titanium-horn-driver--264-217 4 bolt 2" exit driver - http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/264-217-selenium-specifications-44071.pdf $75 obo 2 - Goldwood PB450 horns - http://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gm-450pb-2-high-frequency-horn--270-204 2" horn - 500hz cut off - p-audio / jbl clone - http://www.usspeaker.com/paudio%20ph-4525-1.htm $50 obo 2 - Altec 807-8a drivers. One has dent in diaphragm. I have only tried them once with my 511 horns and they functioned.. so... $50 obo Sold 2 - Selenium 2" horns - HC-5650 - similar to http://www.parts-express.com/selenium-hc5650-slf-bi-radial-horn--264-324 but with different finish $50 obo 2 - Dayton h6512 horns. JBL clone used in "econo-wave" style speakers - http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-h6512-6-1-2-x-12-waveguide-1-threaded--270-318 reasonable offer. Since I have priced these so low, please come and pick them up in central Texas. Sorry but I won't be searching for boxes and taking them to shipping. Thanks.

Depends. Some people believe putting the speakers locked on the hard surface (spikes through the carpet) are the correct way to go. Other like the sound of the speaker on a pad. That is why some people buy that foam pads for putting speakers on. Unfortunately you will have to be the judge.. Depending on your positioning, one may sound tighter to you and seem to provide better imaging (locked on floor) but you might not like that as much as on the rug or pad.

CLUBSTA, It would be nice to have the size of the room, if there is any treatment, what you will power them with, and what you will be listening to. From the folks that respond, they should state what they have owned or listened to very extensively along in what size room. So many people ask what speaker is best but all of these speakers respond differently to different amps and size rooms. That said they are both good speakers though the KLF-30 will require better feeding, also possibly a bigger room. The 4 12's can go much deeper and if the room is large enough to not produce a bunch of overhang or you have adequate bass traps, will be subjectively better than the 15"

I would believe so but I am still trying to figure out why my ribbons are flapping in the wind when I get feedback. I have cranked them to high heaven and they still are corrugated (Aurum Cantus G1). If I let feedback occur which seems to be no louder than when I crank them (minor mishaps when doing karake), the ribbons are stretched out and just flapping. With a passive crossover, you would think DC wasn't an issue but this makes me think it could very well be. This puts me into the tweeter moves and over heats in that position such as square wave or DC(which doesn't 100% make sense). In other words, you got me....

The clipping issue might be an old argument but why would you suppose cranking up the bass to amplifier exhaustion and cranking the volume will toast tweeters? I've seen it happen multiple times.

The KLF30 has stronger and possibly better bass than many Klipsch home speakers except for the lowest registers (with good cabinets) and is room dependent. They will slam harder than any except k-horns though k-horns put out bass in a different way. They key to this whole thread is Chorus can typically work well with a moderate horsepower amplifier. The KLFs will require real current due to the dual 12" woofers. Very good high power class D such as Bel Canto Ref 1000 amps and they will come alive. They are both of comparable efficiency though it is how well the amp works with the woofers. Also another key is just as the k-horns need room to breath, KLF30s will need a large room to get what you paid for. The large room will allow the mids to sound appropriate compared to the bass, another thing k-horns and other horn speakers have issues with.

Shoot for $250, $300 if you want to give them a gift. They need serious TLC

The chamber is a theoretical known. What really matter is how the speakers sound in room. As long as you are not moving to a new location after you build the speakers, you will probably have better results and be happier with the in room results. Find your position and voice appropriately. The chamber allows everyone to say they have a good baseline for measurements which likely won't correlate very well to what you hear in room.

If the lacquer is the only thing scratched or there are light scratches in the veneer, use stripper then light sand them. Oil finish them and they will look wonderful (tung oil).

12" sub against 4 10" woofers that go down into the 20's..... its just not going to keep up unless you just want some real low rumble (to feel).

Unfortunately to get what you are trying will require a bigger cabinet and larger, longer ports. With the cabinet size the way it is you will likely only get a couple of hz lower with the longer ports, but due to their size, may not be large enough to make much of a difference. Longer ports and low bass eq might do the trick if you aren't up to building new boxes.

How is the Jamboree like a Cornscala, the Cornscala is a direct fire woofer where as the Jamboree is a single folded horn more like a Lascala but with 2 15's instead of one. Plus the ones that are being sold by Lampizator have that big old JBL horn which I think is wonderful looking. This is something I am working on, I would like to try some passives from Al, as I feel setting up a active is tricky and difficult. Hopefully I can get if figured out. Duder1982, My point is that Cornscala and Jamboree are a "BOW TO" PWK which means "Not Real Klipsch" products but someone's impersonation, for lack of better words. You missed the comma and the rest of the sentence. I definitely know the technology differences. Too many folks come on this forum and talk like Cornscala is a Klipsch product and close to a semi-consistent design. It is neither of these is true. Here's my Cornscala's (joking) As far as crossovers, as soon as you change anything about the speaker, even the distance between the drivers, (let alone drivers, and horns), the crossover will need to be modified. If you are thinking of one of Al's passives, you may want to build it yourself since he usually has the schematics available and tweak it so the voicing is more correct for your equipment, drivers, and room.

Jamboree is like Cornscala, not Klipsch but a "bow to" PWK's legacy. They look nice but 60% of that speaker (if running non-active crossovers) will be the crossover design. Hopefully he is really good at voicing and crossover math.

Frank, you are using USB 3 or just hooked the DAC up to the USB 3.x port? I don't see any reference to USB 3 on the DAC. And again as mentioned earlier, design goals and hardware make a difference. I am glad you decided to listen to both. There is a bunch of information on the internet to read on all this stuff but what it really comes down to is the hardware, configuration, and sound. Which ever is easiest and yields the proper results wins in my book. I hear about jitter with Toslink and S/PDIF but that is a clocking and susceptibility issue. I have come across a number of articles complaining about USB including clocking issues with Async so I guess we just need to plug everything in and listen. One thing I have learned in the past 45yrs or so in audio is that you can convince yourself of anything (good or bad), especially if you read too much. Just listen!!

They are wishing...or fishing. 2K tops if you just have to have them and they are down the block.