JohnA

Everything you want to know is in the 2-Channel Section. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/161759-klipsch-heritage-codes/

Since a passive radiator moves as a piston, flexibility is not very important. I have used Elmers paper glue, successfully. Use barely enough. Adding reinforcement with a barely big enough piece of cigarette paper or paper towel cannot hurt. Be sure to extend the reinforcement past the end of the year (about 1/4 of the tear length should be enough). Since you say the hole can be closed from the back side and is almost invisible, it is most probable is was penetrated from the outside, not torn from playing loud

The leads to the diodes are soldered to the spade for the tweeter. You can't just remove the spade. You can unbolt one of the diodes with a small wrench, ~3/8", and let it hang. Too easy not to try.

Mostly. The K-77/T-35 has a hair-sized lead to the terminal and a power rating of 2W continuous, 20W program and 40W instantaneous. The K-77-M/T-35A has the same diaphragm as a T-350, with a ribbon lead and a 5/50/100W rating. *FOR HOME USE* the KLiP diodes may be removed or disabled (unbolt one and let it hang). For pro or outdoor use, you need them. When they operate, the tweeter produces a square wave and that sounds hashy, irritating. Doesn't look like i have the T-350 Cut Sheet on this PC.

Disconnect one of the KLiP diodes in the network giving trouble and retest. If that's not it, isolate the tweeter inductor and measure its resistance and inductance (disturb it as little possible so you don't change any defect it might have). Retest. If that isn't it, test the ESR of each tweeter cap. If you can't measure ESR, replace the caps one at a time with high quality film and foil caps. I predict it is the diodes. If you are not running AlNiCo K-77 tweeters, disable them in all of your La Scalas.

I'm driving my Heresy IVs with a refurbished SA-300 in a 12' x 18' room. My source is a netbook for streaming and discs. My college SA-200 is in my 400' garage driving Auratone 5CTVs with an Ocean Digital WR03. The WR-03 is a great adapter that works and sounds very well. A 2-channel system in the gaming end of your room would be great. I'd look at Heresy IV or Forte.

Air guitar. Loud.

If you want to learn: https://www.parts-express.com/loudspeaker-design-cookbook-7th-edition-book--500-035 You also will need measurement and modelling software. Xover Pro is easy. https://www.parts-express.com/x-over-3-pro-software-cd-rom--500-919 This replaced WooferTester at PE, though WT is still available. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dats-v3-computer-based-speaker-audio-component-test-system--390-807 REW is often recommended for response measurement.

Just make the front 3 match. A good horn on a B&C DE120 is a smooth, silky tweeter and I like that much better than a K-77-M speaking through a hole. The AL-3 is a pretty good network. ALK Universals runs the tweeters hot; too much for my ears. With K-55-Ms, or solder terminal -Vs, you don't need to lower the crossover point for the tweeter. If your speakers sound polite, or reserved/laid back, you probably need new capacitors. Otherwise, convert one of your ALs to an AL-3.

A flat file. You may have to flip the plug to control hum from a ground loop. Yes, polarized plugs are a safety measure, but a polarized 2-prong plug and an unpolarized plug from years ago are wired the same internally. Three prong plugs (with a safety ground for the chassis) are wired differently inside.

Or, ..... just use the OEM caps and enjoy. Not all old caps need replacement.

Wow! You really drug up an ooold post. My answer is it depends. It depends on heat basically. Lower impedance draws additional current from the amp at a given volume knob setting. More current makes more heat. Keep the volume reasonable and the heat will less than the amp's heat sinks can dissipate, protecting the output transistors. Crank it hard and you'll let the magic blue smoke out. I had a KA-7100 with Kenwood KT-5300 tuner in college, driving Marantz Imperial 7 speakers. I liked it. Might like one again.

Have you called 1-800-KLIPSCH? I haven't seen you write anything simple, so you might have to work on it, like "I'm having trouble with my 'x'. The subwoofer won't connect. What do I do." Have SN and receipt at hand. Prolly get an exchange. I can't explain having trouble contacting Klipsch, but their Customer Service is usually very good.

My '67 and '68 H700s had those same components. They will sound like the other Heresies through 1979.

Power supply fuses, before the power supply capacitors? No.

Well, been there and done all of that. Here's what I did and would do again: - Replace the capacitors with a very good quality film and foil cap, not metalized. Metalized are OK, you want better. - Replace the squawker driver with early '80s solder terminal K-55-Vs. They respond well up to 6k. Alternatively, you could use Allen A-55-Gs. - Wrap the squawker horn with Dynamat, or similar viscoelastic sheet. Kills an edge you don't know you have till it's gone. Play Thelma Houston, loud, and touch the horn throat to see why. - Flush mount the tweeters using K-77-Fs(?), Fastrac tweeter horns, Dave's improved MAHL, or Similar and B&C DE120 drivers and defeat/remove the KLiP diodes. This will change the character of the speaker, but it will be a smooooooth sound you should like. - Stuff the upper cabinet tightly with fiberfil. Rap the cabinet top with your knuckles to see why. K-402/K69(?) and electronic crossover would be the BOMB! But what a sure, ugly beasty she'd be!

I think the shades will be fairly close. I have Cherry Heresy IVs. they are a light honey color. I also wouldn't sweat the Parasound. Their amps used to be Class AB biased deeper into Class A than many. My HCA-1205 ran in Class A to 1.25 watts. If yours is similar, you may be listening to a Class A amp most of the time. Call and ask.

Hi Gary, Found a bit of Blarney, didja? I have some interconnects like that. They are Vampire Wire. They were described to me as having 2 conductors and a shield. The shield is only bonded at the preamp end to avoid ground loops.

Well, Thebes, you can really find 'em! since then is no fuse commonly in the signal path, ....... And You KNOW AC power goes both ways, right. I'm too old, anymore. 😉.

The false corners should be reflective, not a bass trap. Use your bass traps in other places in the room. It does look like a tough room.

TubeCube at $180? If so, here's what I'd do. Buy another Tube Cube. Buy 3 Y-adapters and a resistor. Split your preamp out with 2 Ys and feed your 1st amp as normal. Use the 3rd Y to combine the extra preamp outs back into one (mono). Feed that to one of the 2nd TubeCube channels and power your Heresy. Use volume knob to match level. Attach resistor across the unused amp channel, "just in case". Make sure your Heresy matches the components in your La Scalas and reconfigure the Heresy network to match what is in your La Scalas, I.e. similar to a Type HIE. I'll give you my design if you have Type AA La Scalas.

There is a decoder ring in another forum (2 channel?), but I'm pretty sure those were made in 1984.

My H IVs took about 40 hours of Dubstep with the bass boosted and at less than totally obnoxious levels, in a closed up room. There was a noticeable difference after 24 hours.

What's wrong with the woofers? Fortes were rated for 100 watts max. I'd expect the IIs are the same. If you are going for 2-channel, Look at very good quality Receivers and Integrated Amps from Yamaha, Marantz, Cambridge, Denon, Sony ES, .... Since you are looking to damage your hearing, go for something around 100 watts/channel, 20 to 20k Hz, all channels driven at x% distortion per the old FTC rating procedure. FWIW, the only time I ever damaged ANY speakers was with too much power over too long a time period. I melted the voice coils in 4 subwoofer drivers, at one time.

Pull that trigger!!!!!