JohnA

Sure, no problem. Just need a 30 amp power supply for a *real* 100 wpc amp.

"J" is 1971. Your should have AlNiCo squawkers (gray, K-55-V) and tweeters (round can). Those tweeters have a 2 watt continuous/20 watt program rating; don't abuse them, or you will get to install the newer, 10 watt diaphragms! I am not sure whether yours would have an AlNiCo woofer magnet. Upgrades: Wait 6 months to a year. The Type AA is a good crossover. It may be improved with premium caps and inductors for improved clarity. The squawker horn will benefit from a layer or 2 of "rope caulk" or Dynamat. It has a slight ring. If your woofer is not a K-33-E (in '71 they may not be), the -E will be a nice improvement for not much money, in the States, at least. The tweeters can be flush-bounted with the front of the cabinet using a Z-bracket Klipsch has been using for several years. The highs are less harsh, but it may be a lot of work removing the grille and enlarging the tweeter hole so it can be pushed to the front of the cabinet. Differences from 2002: The biggest is the crossover, the 2002+ has good caps, is very sophisticated and has no autoformer. The 2002 woofer is the K-33-E, the Squawker is a modern version of the K-55-V that is smoother, but not quite as efficient. The 2002 tweeter is nearly the same, but with a ceramic magnet. The 2002 diaphragms are supposed to fit into your drivers.

The T-35A/K-77 (AlNiCo) carries a 2w cont./20 watts program. These were the ones used when the Type AA was designed.

And well-noted, you are! Forgive us for forgetting!

Y'all need to quit the pissing contest. The E-V literature of the time claims a 5 watt continuous/50 watt program and a spec I've never quoted before of 100 watt instataneous for the T-35A (and by inference, the K-77-M). So, in light of that and the fact that there is not much energy in music above 5k, the audio enthusiast community doesn't need much protection. My experiments, assuming I did them correctly, showed the bulb limiting the DC power to 2 watts. This should be analogous to average power. If the average is kept under control, spikes to 100 watts will not hurt the tweeter. That looks like protection enough to me. I would also prefer an additional resistor in parallel to the tweeter so that the high-pass filter crossover point is not shifted too far down in frequency, introducing even more energy to the bulb and tweeter.

A first guess is the impedance curve of the Cornwalls. It rises to 60 ohms, or so in the midrange.

Lynn, The distortion you were hearing on saxophones MAY have been due to highs getting to the woofer. Try a high quality air-core inductor about 12 or 14 ga. That'll kill the highs like the iron inductor without the saturation problems and loss of output it has. Al tested on and found it changed inductance at just a couple of watts. A 2 uF cap in series with a 7 ohm tweeter gives a -3 dB point of 11000 Hz. If the tweeter had an impedance of 14 ohms (16 nominal) the crossover point would be 5800. Early t-35s were 16 ohms; those would have been the ones Klipsch was using in the Type A era. Like Al says, 6 dB crossovers are so gradual, an octave here or there is no problem. While all of us are coming at you with different solutions and why, the use of premium components in the final design is the ultimate solution and cannot be over emphasized. Try this circuit for a Type A design with a little tweeter protection and voicing similar to the Type AA.

Watch those narcotic pain-killers; they'll get you bounced off of the radio! (We're praying for you buddy!) And you too, Griff!

Tanya Tucker. Audio Systems in Nashville used to sell Klipsch by the dozen, so you'd expect lots of country artists.

DON'T remove the horn from a K-77/-M and reassemble it through the hole. I did it and was lucky (I think, they won't go over 14k). Reassembly through the hole makes it tough to align all the parts. Since you are building new cabinets, build the new ones with the top open like a Belle or La Scala, enlarge the tweeter hole, and buy the Klipsch Z-brackets made to flush mount the tweeter through a hole in 3/4" plywood. Until then, line the hole with felt.

Lynn, You'll have to remove the 245 uH inductor and one of the 2 uF caps from the circuit. Then you'll have a Type A. Personally, I'd build a second set of Type AAs using premium components without the zener diodes. They protect the tweeters better. In fact, to get the flatest response, I might build a 3rd-order Butterworth high-pass for the tweeter, at 5000.

My favorite "flaw" is a loud POP between tracks in the Sheffield Lab Direct-to-Disc "I've Got the Music in Me". Before La Scalas, it was a pop. Now, it is clearly a reverb toggle switch on a guitar amp.

Larry, Your K-horn throats are VERY interesting! I've never seen that before. I wonder what was going on with that change? What are your serial numbers?

Another viable alternative is the JBL 2226H. Placing the woofer in the bass horn raises it's effective impedance from 4 to 6 ohms. If you used an 8 ohm nominal/6 ohm typical impedance woofer it would go up to 9-ish ohms actual and you'd have to change the crossover to account for the change.

28. Need to add points for multiple subs, remote control lighting and movie posters.

I'm sorry Forte, but ..... DUH! Fortes are notable for their low distortion levels and B&K for its resolution. You should try some K-horns with that gear!

Buy those booger, Don! $1200 is a good price even if they look bad. Where are you/they? Any number of us would be willing to help with the crossovers, esp. Al Klappenberger, but you need to be in reasonable driving distance. There are several excellent crossover design floating around the Forum and pictures, too. Those should have Type AK networks, surely the worst sounding.

I was a HUGE Battlestar fan in college! I even have a Telarc CD with the theme digitally recorded and uncompressed. It is the greatest show off track for your audio system if you have superior subwoofers and plenty of power for all of the speakers. The drum licks at the beginning and very end sound (and feel) like sonic booms. Tektronics did the display designs on the ships and we had Tektronics gear in the Engineering Labs. It was great! The series sounded super until you guys posted this stuff. StarBUCK is a girl? Nooooo. Why do you think he had that name and not Star? They'd have to muck around with the characters a little so we'd believe they were real and not stepford kids in drag, but NOT STARBUCK! Well, we'll see.

Are you the one that got the empty 50s bass horns (from what, Boston?) ?! Good for you! I think I bid on them the first time they were offered, but didn't bid much because I was afraid they'd be too rough.

There's a lot of misinformation in that ad. John Allen designs theater systems. He used to contract with Klipsch for construction. He did not design the K-horn, for instance.

How much do you want? for them? Q, don't you have enough?

Thomas, I have La Scalas with Type AA or ALK crossovers depending on my mood. You need to identify the problem before you spend the money on Al's crossovers. They are excellent and made from top quality components. I recommend them heartily. However, you need to spend money on the known problems before introducing another variable. The Type AA is a good design and can sound quite good if rebuilt with premium components. Modified this way, they will sound much like the ALKs, but retain the Klipsch voicing. To me, that sounds mostly like less tweeter output. Have you removed and cleaned the connections on the barrier strips?

I had not noticed the PD-5VT had a ceramic magnet before. Thanks, djk!

"3. If the speakers are better, which I doubt, there's some reason other than 'Alniconess'." For me this is the closest to the truth. I prefer the K-55-V squawker primarily because of the crossover. The ferrite K-55-M is supposed to be +/- 3dB vs +/- 5dB for the -V. However, there is a difference in their sound, even when both are played through Al K's networks. I prefer the -V and I *think* it is because of the sound or performance down low near the 400 Hz crossover point. Whatever it is, I have never thought AlNiCo had anything to do with it. There is no reason a ferrite magnet cannot duplicate the magnetic field of an AlNiCo magnet. It will be larger doing it, though.

Klipsch doesn't normally offer a tour of the factory. The Klipsch Museum was across the road and it was worth seeing. However, It may have been moved to Indy. Some of the pieces have. You might want to call and ask about the museum.