Steve Phillips

All channels driven--------170x7, I would not call that a wimp..........I have had no problems driving my RB-75's, RC-64 WFO at all. Mind you they are not power hungry. Looking under the hood of my 1981 F-100 with a 1995 Cobra R 5.8 rated at 290 @ the flywheel suggests not much, wait till I smoke you with it at 85 in second. Lookin under the hood never says a lot, after all size does not matter.........

OK, I need to correct that, sorry about that Not Rosewood....... Actualy Rambling Rose and may have been lacquer This was from Jim Hunter and from memory It was a re-constituted log. I believe they cut it in slices; glued it back together; and then rotary sliced it. I believe they cut it in slices; glued it back together; and then rotary sliced it.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

C Cornwall R rosewood R-2 riser base 2 O oil Had to research that a bit

Universal Transformer.... #3619 P.O. Box 472 Farmersville, TX 75442 972 784-7700 voice 972 782-7000 fax As far as I know, they have stock.

Accurate and detailed. IMHO.I like them a lot, could sit and listen to music 2 channel no sub all day long Have not A/B ed the RF-63 with a RF-5, not always something easy to do around here. Things of that nature I would have to do after hours ( almost all of the time) and that is not as easy as one would expect. RC-64 to the RF-35, same answer as above, but I would say they should be fine together. Reference old and new match very well with each other for most, if not all applications. I have an RC-10 I have used with my RB-5s and felt the match was fine, used to use them in my bedroom HT. I dont always get the chance to compare a floor with a center, unless it is in the same group. Usually after hours I listen to all of one product area, comparing new with older and that was a month or so ago. Usually during development and not necessarily the final version. My position here does not always allow time for evaluation of product at work. With as much that has been going on lately, just have not had the chance, except for what I have been doing at home. Sorry if I did not give you the answer you were looking for, hope it helps though

Infocus 4805, painted wall ( ultra flat white) 106" Becky bought me a PS2 Slim for Christmas. bought 2 Logitech Force feed back wheels and attached the pedels ( with wing nuts) to the recliner leg support, the wheels are mounted to a table like deal that sits across our laps............so we kick back and RACE. GT-3 is a great sim. Room is good size, but I felt the 63's more suited, I sit only 10 feet back from them, about 13+ from the screen. "lot of bass even for 6-inchers?" O ya!

I own RB-75 mains and the RC-7 center driven with Aragon Stage One/2007 with the THX Ultra 2 sub system What do I think of the RF-63 and RC-64??? I don't want to take them back, IMO the RC-64 is very natural sounding, not saying the RC-7 isn't, but the 64 is there. Even Becky noticed and suggested the same, we spent the day Sunday just jammin, A/B ing back and forth between the two centers. Running in PL II music mode and DD watching concert DVD's. The RF-63's have some great bottom end, forgot my subs were off the other day while cranking on some tunes. I love them. I have had RF-7's at home in the past and I can say this much, I love the RF-63's. Again, I do not want to return them....... Saying what I have so far, don't forget I have K-Horns tube driven up stairs

I have used my Stage One/2007 with my older HT system...K-Horn mains/LS center. Silent, no hint of noise...... Currently driving my RB-75's, RC-7, RS-7 with RB-5 rears.....quite and just how loud do you wanna listen? The 2007 runs cool, never a hint of warm, even when placed in my closed back cabinets I am Beta testing a pair of RF-63's with RC-64 set to large......again, the 2007 never breaks a sweat. Aragon amps drives everything we have here at Klipsch....including the RF-7's, no problem.....trust me we play loud, hard and long..... True, they don't double into 4, but that is not a problem at all, they are high current amps. Yes they have the guts to drive the RF-7's

The K-556 is more than likely a K-55-G, it was an Atlas ceramic magnet version of the K-55-V that we used briefly before the K-55-M from EV. The KP-66-E was used in the KP-250 II pro, titanium diaphragm.

---------------- On 8/3/2005 1:01:24 PM rhiannonj wrote: Well, I just hung up with good ole Comcast and THIS time they told me that I can upgrade my box to one with digital audio outputs but they charge $25 for it. No biggee. They're coming out tomorrow so I'll let you guys know if that makes a difference. Rhiannon ---------------- It's been a while, did you get it taken care of yet? The S-Video box is what I have had to ask for. 3 years ago, the S box I had would not work digital out, took Comcast a few trips before they figured it out, and a call to someone higher up the scale. You may still need to use the analog outs from the box as some lower channels don't output digital. My locales are not digital, unless I watch them in HD in the HT room. They have never charged me for an upgrade box, well just the monthly for the HD box when I went to that. I still have 2 S boxes and 2 analog boxes

The K-55-V was a midrange driver used between the early 60's to early 80's.Also in the MCM 1900. What horn was it attached to? Klipschorn, La Scala used the K-400 horn lens Belle, K-500 Cornwall K-600 Heresy K-700 The MCM used a manifold with 4 K-55-V's connected to one horn lens

I posted this in "general" as well OK, To set this story straight. It was not a bad batch of glue. The vendor Klipsch was using at that time was using a non porous finish on the inside. When discovered, they were still under contract and when they supplied Klipsch with new veneered MDF, they would slip in a few sheets of "bad" The industrial hot glue used would not adhere properly to the inside of the cabinet. If dropped on an edge it may and sometimes did, pop an area loose.....leak. Don't try to knock the back or front off!!! You may break the front or back into pieces. Best to go inside and rough the surface where there is a corner with 80 grit sandpaper. Remove the drivers and move the insulation out of the way. Use Liquid Nails to seal the surfaces To help make it stronger use a small wood block pushed into the glue in the corner. "a glue block"

OK, To set this story straight. It was not a bad batch of glue. The vendor Klipsch was using at that time was using a non porous finish on the inside. When discovered, they were still under contract and when they supplied Klipsch with new veneered MDF, they would slip in a few sheets of "bad". Not something you would see or feel when handling it. The industrial hot glue used would not adhere properly to the inside of the cabinet. If dropped on an edge it may and sometimes did, pop an area loose.....rattle. Don't try to knock the back or front off!!! You may break the front or back into pieces. Best to go inside and rough the surface where there is a corner with 80 grit sandpaper. Remove the drivers and move the insulation out of the way. Use Liquid Nails to seal the surfaces To help make it stronger use a small wood block pushed into the glue in the corner. "a glue block"

I know you say you can only use in ceiling speakers, but if you can, you may want to consider two R-5800-W's up front with the RC-35. In ceiling speakers for the front soundstage, you may not be very happy. For surrounds, the R-5800-C'2 will be fine. The room is large, you may be fine with the 12, you may need to corner load it for best output.

It does not matter which set of posts you connect to. You may want to loosen and tighten all 4 posts, just to make certian they are seated well. That may very well be the problem, one of them may be loose enough. Connect to the top set and see if the tweeter plays, if it does and the woofers don't, there is the cause. Muffled sounds points to the tweeter not playing

I would check the binding post straps on the back of the KL-650. If the HF or LF binding post is loose for some reason on one side, you may loose the HF. But that depends on which posts you connected to. I will check support email in the morning. If you found this to be the case, just send us another email.

---------------- On 7/10/2005 12:03:32 PM kde wrote: I have two "line ins" and two "line outs" on my amp - do I simply connect one "line-out" on the amp to the sub port on the receiver? Is a "splitter" or "y-cable" needed? ---------------- Connect the single sub out from your receiver to one of the line inputs on the KA-1000. You may use a Y to both line in's on the amp if you want to. It offers a bit more signal to the amp. I Y to both line in's on my KA-1000

My wife and I are both in that picture. Becky is right behind Paul, I am to her left Flew in from NC for that one and the next year I came to work for Klipsch. Trey and I have been to all 4

Optimal for surrounds would be on the side walls left and right of the seating area. If you need to mount them on the rear wall, this is fine. My suggestion would be 3 1/2 feet from the side wall to the center of the speaker. Rule of thumb is at least 2 feet above seated ear height. Surround is meant to be an ambiance sound, not one that can be localized. 5 feet from the floor to the bottom of the speaker as a minimum height to no more than about 7 feet to the bottom. Now if you need to mount them higher, say 8 feet, this would probably be fine as long as you sit 6 feet or so off of the back wall. too high and surrounds tend to disappear so to speak

Several years ago I looked into the NEC LT150 referbs, the positive side with the NEC units...they checked them very close and fitted new bulbs in them.Not that they were not inspected closely when shipped out new, but they would go throught them with a fine tooth comb, before resaling. I would not suspect a company like Infocus, or any others for that matter, would relace something with anything less than what you have. It's not worth risking a reputation over sending you are referb, I would expect it would be a new one. My thoughts anyway. Mine is doing fine so far, let me know what happens with this.

I would second the AVS forum suggestion. google may be your best bet, just my thoughts. CRT's are great except for the weight and size part of it. The fact that most are data grade makes HD easier, mine would handle 1080i easy I have a 10 year old CRT and got tired of tweeking it, my 4805 DLP was easy and the picture looks great, even happy with the black levels. CRT was 4:3 native and that was a problem in my application. Replacement guns are a bit high $ as well. One day I will get the old CRT out and tweek it.

---------------- On 4/11/2005 1:01:45 AM tkdamerica wrote: Stephen, Very nice work!!! The front looks really well done. Needless to say I bet those subs can really kick some Bass! I am curious why you didn't use RF-7's for the front. Isn't this also your "B" system? Does Steve & Becky's Home Theater still exist? Inquiring minds would like to know... ---------------- We love the Ultra2 subs, down deep and plenty of it. Enough to feel. For what I was doing, I did feel the need to go to the RF-7, HT only, but does music great as well. Music is up in the living room with tubes and K-Horns. I realy need to update the geocities web site, old HT in North Carolina. But still have everything from that system. Hey Doug, good to see you on here as well. We are fine, I sent you a PM. We closed on the house Dec 3 last year and the HT has been done since mid March, got to have your priorities straight Heard from Ross?

Room size is 14x23, finished basement RB-75 mains, an RC-7 center channel, RS-7 side surrounds, RB-75 for rear center surround and a THX Ultra2 subs. Aragon Stage One and 2007. Infocus 4805 projector with a 106" 16:9 painted wall screen, JVC 7-disc DVD player, JVC 7600 S-VHS and Pioneer Elite CLD-97 laser disc player.

Infocus 4805 with 16:9 106" ultra flat white painted wall and yes it looks this good. And before you ask, the picture was lightened so you could see the room. That is the actual picture as you would see it. The 4805 is 2 1/2 feet right above my head and I can hardly hear the fan noise during quite scenes. My Electrohome CRT's fan noise was very noticeable