Good2BHome

---------------- On 4/11/2005 1:53:41 PM jwcullison wrote: I have already dunked the K57/601 and the K-77. I have the exact volume if you need it. jc ---------------- It would important to see independant data. I'd love to see what you have. Mike

IMHO: I'd be very leary of using a K-700 horn in a Cornwall, WITHOUT EXTENDED listening and comparisons with a "correct" Cornwall. The Midrange is the most important driver in the Cornwall. It produces the majority of the frequencies you listen to. It is the driver most people try to improve / upgrade, rather than downgrade. In addition it takes up less volume, thus impacting the Woofer's performance. Mike

---------------- On 3/25/2005 11:33:59 PM BEC wrote: Dean, I know you are fond of yellow caps and thought you might want these that came from an original Klipsch Type AA. Bob ---------------- For what it's worth, I owned a 1975 pair of Cornwalls that used exactly the same yellow caps. Mike

I'm interested in what you find! Mike

I use a McIntosh C-33 Pre-Amp and a MC-2505 50watts(Original owner of the MC-2505) and have been very happy. Tubes are a little better, but ..... Mike

---------------- On 3/23/2005 5:01:58 PM bchulett wrote: Mike, something tells me I really have metal midrange horns... if I do please forgive my ignorance regarding Klipsch speakers. ---------------- On 3/23/2005 2:35:33 PM Good2BHome wrote: I have one question before you start. Is the surface of the mouth of the Midrange horn Smooth or pebbled (a little rough)?? If it is Smooth proceed to removing the back and opening them up. If it is pebbled/a little rough let us know first. ---------------- ---------------- Bob, If they are a little rough or pebbled with about a 1/8" - 1/4" seam down each side then they are most probably metal. The metal Midrange horns were made from two aluminum (I assume) cast halves that were "welded" together. Tap it with a Quarter. Everone here has learned a great deal from the Forum, so don't feel bad about any question, when you're trying to learn. I have saved many threads over the years to be sources of information and it's humorous to read some of the posts by the the current "gurus". They learned here too. Now, you are still required to take the back off to complete you initiation to the black art of speaker tweaking. Mike

---------------- On 3/23/2005 12:02:47 PM bchulett wrote: Mike, okay I guess I'll need to go through my hazing. This is going to be painful. Anything I should know before removing the panel and closing it back up? What pics are essential for identifying the components? Can you identify them visually? Or do they have part numbers? Sorry for all the questions. Plus, the speaker connection on the top of the panel, will that need to be removed? I'm assuming there are wires running to it from inside... it has a weird sort of block with screw and nut connectors. Do all Cornwalls have this? I don't want to take the panel off and disturb the connection inside. Any advice would be appreciated. Bob ---------------- Bob, Silversport's description about covers it. I have one question before you start. Is the surface of the mouth of the Midrange horn Smooth or pebbled (a little rough)?? If it is Smooth proceed to removing the back and opening them up. If it is pebbled/a little rough let us know first. Removal information: The screws around the edge of the speaker are all that need to be removed. The wire, from the connection on the INSIDE back to the crossover, is #18 lampcord, very sturdy stuff with sturdy connectors. Just look and go slow and you will have no problems. After the back is off, if you decide to disconnect the wire (which is not necessary), do it at the crossover, that will be the easiest. Each of the 4 components will have a model #. On the drivers it will be on the back of the magnet. What "should" be there is K-77 Tweeter, K-55 Mid, K-33 Woofer. The Crossover's # will be on a metal strip on the EDGE of the crossover's plywood body and "should" be "B2". Since we think this is an "experimental" Cornwall with a plastic horn all of the "shoulds" may not be so. A single picture, which is as close to the open back as possible and yet still includes all 4 of the above elements, will probably be good enough, but take as may as seems necessary while you have it open, since this is listening down time! Just post the one picture here first and if we have other questions the other pictures will be available. All of this will be interesting, but what I'm most interested in seeing, is the plactic horn. Is it a K-601 or ??? Mike

---------------- On 3/23/2005 12:59:12 AM bchulett wrote: Mike, An experimental set?... what's the chances of that happening? I realize I said I never removed the back panels before, but if I recall correctly, many years ago before finishing them, I believe I did briefly remove the back panel on just one out of curiosity---just to take a peek. To tell you the truth, I wouldn't know what to look for anyway. I would like to know what's inside, but I don't know if I should take the chance and remove the rear panel. These basically have not been disturbed... the only time they've been moved was into the garage for a brief period to finish them. As soon as I get the courage, I'll post some pics. Thanks! Bob ---------------- Bob, the chances are excellent!! Klipsch made running changes and backed off many times, experiments, parts availability, etc. Removing / replacing the backs will not harm the speakers, just go slow and the necessary moves should be obvious, (in fact it is part of the secret induction to the Klipsch Forum). Klipsch production information is like peeling an onion. Mike

Friz, Very Nice!! Mike

---------------- On 3/19/2005 6:09:05 PM bchulett wrote: Thanks for all the responses! The sales receipt and the warranty card was filled out incorrectly by The Fed Group salesman because the hand written "u" on the Klipsch name tag label kinda looks like the "4". Now that I've got that straightened out, here are the correct numbers: Serial: 24u796 & 24u797 These open up in the back so I guess I have Cornwalls with plastic mid horns as well..... Thanks, Bob -------------- What you have is an Klipsch experiment. I own 3 pairs of Cornwalls, 2 of them "U" 1980 Models. And have owned several others over the years. The serial numbers for my 1st pair starts 24U753. The serial numbers for my 2st pair starts 25U700. This brackets your pair. Both my pair have metal horns. All the records I have show that the K601 plastic horn did not enter production (emphasize production) until some time in 1984. I've been tracking Cornwalls for years. It would be interesting and helpful to know what drivers and crossover you have?? Have you taken the backs off and looked inside? Pictures would help, if you interested. Mike

You will get past "Newbie" only when you learn to post in the Correct section of the Forum, which in this case is in General!

Were are the closeups of the interiors and exteriors of the "new" Cornwalls? Mike

Al, Look at this site: http://www.emachineshop.com/ I have not investigated very much, but added it to my "Favorites" a few months ago for future reference Mike

Charles, Fraziers would be an excellent choice. They have not really been "discovered". The company was in Dallas. Dave Mallett (of our DFW-Hornheads group) is very well versed on Fraziers. Mike

Micheal, If the photo session is today, would like to put in suggestions to be included in the "Collection" 1 of the Crossover from overhead. 1 of the Crossover ID plate. 1 of the Serial # Label 1 of the interior in general Mike

A trip to Hope would be good. I haven't been there since I had a tour of the plant in 1972. Hope Mike

---------------- On 2/8/2005 2:18:59 PM dbflash wrote: If you do the "hide the wire in the sheetrock" method I would not sand. After the mud has dried use a wet sponge to remove the mud. It doesn't show as bad and no dust. A painter I know told me this and after the job is complete it is very hard to tell what has and has not been repaired. Danny ---------------- Execellent tip!!! To be really effect one needs to very good/experienced at applying the "mud" inorder to use this tip.

Dupe

Micheal, I will be patient!! By the way, what are the serial numbers? Mike

Your a photographer!! Where are the pictures??? Mike

FWIW I bought some of that HD 14 or 12 gauge wire and about a year later it was light green. Not so good!!!! This was about three years ago. Mike

Values: a 3 uf cap in parallel with a .1 mH coil in line with the midrange. As verified with the inventor (in person within the last 6 months). A Simple Connection: Place the 2 items side-by-side. Twist each pair of ends together and solder. Cut, in the middle, the positive side of the wire from the crossover to the midrange and insert the P-Trap (polarity of the P-Trap is unimportant). There are more complicated connection options, but they are all electrically the same, just different in placement along the the positive side of the line from the crossover to the midrange. Just an comment: I understand from several sources that the 9k peak is EXTREMELY rare in the solder version of the midrange (which was put into use about March 24, 1980). I hope this helps.

Let's assume one has donor transformer set(s) that work. Would it then make economic sense to build the rest of the amp with new parts? Strictly for the sound without resale considerations.

Thanks JJK, VERY interesting! Any picture(s) available of the Crossover and/or the 1965 Cornwall it came out of? Mike