001

ok, didnt ask about forte to 5000 difference) got any input on the 500 vs 5000 woofer , weight or specs differences??

thanks for the info. so you are saying the k24 woofer is 8 ohms & the k28 is 4? does the change in the x-over for the 5000 adjust the ohms, since they both show they are 8 ohm speakers? that would account for the 2db SPL difference, but the freq response is the same for both so they should have equal bass just slightly more efficient on the 5000s. & the 15lb weight difference seems pretty big, wonder what makes up for the added weight since the cabinets are the same dimensions.. maybe a thicker motor board on the 5000, the woofer cant be a 15lb difference.

thanks for the link,i did see that one in my searches but doesnt have any info regarding my questions. klipsch has the spec sheets for both 500 & 5000 series tangents & thats where i saw the different specs & woofer part #s. heres the tangent brocures with specs for all the models. the early 10-50 models specs are available too. https://d2um2qdswy1tb0.cloudfront.net/product-specsheets/Tangent-100-series.pdf https://d2um2qdswy1tb0.cloudfront.net/files/Tangent-1000-series-brochure.pdf ?? i havent hooked them up or pulled any drivers to look inside yet but will do that soon & report back on my findings. they do look like they should perform as good as fortes or H2s since they are the same basic drivers & the cabinets are a LOT bigger than fortes. questions on the woofers still remain, anyone know the sonic or spec differences between the 2.

yes the mid & tweets look to be the same as in fortes on the 500 & 5000. not sure about the diaphragms but the horns are the same in the 500 as the 5000. just curious why the change in woofers & what the differences may be on the k24 vs k28.

i just got a set of T500 tangents & am not very familiar with their history or the changes made from the T50 through T5000 models. i did some quick searches on here & google & came up with some basic info but still curious regarding the differences between the 500 & 5000, mainly the woofers. any members familiar with the tangent models can shed some light on my questions? the 500/5000 look like they are basically fortes or H2 with the same mid & tweeter horn but the woofers are different in the 500 vs 5000, 500 are k-24k & the 5000 are k-28k according to the spec sheets. also different passives, 500 uses kd13 same as forte but the 5000 uses a k-120 i have never heard of. slight difference in sensitivity too, 97db for 500 & 99db for 5000, same freq response. same basic cabinet dimensions too but a ~15lb increase in the 5000, wonder why that is? mainly wondering what the differences in the woofers & passives are? the k24 woofers are a smooth cone & the k28 are ribbed like F2 & chorus woofers, both passives are ribbed with rubber surrounds. are the 5000 woofers that much different to increase the SPL 2db? i assume the passives may just be weighted different but the 2 speakers have the same freq & power ratings. other minor tangents differences are vinyl wrapped cabinets vs full veneer of consumer models (early 10-50 tangents have 2 veneered sides) & the drivers are not flush mounted like normal models of klipsch. i havent pulled any drivers yet to look at cabinet construction but from what ive read they are the same thickness & MDF as other models of this era. & they are TALL cabinets due to the passive being in the front vs rear, wish they would have just made them a dual woofer design like the kg5.5 or KLF & EPICS.

place a wanted ad here in the garage sale section for them or check ebay, there are usually a few different listings for these but as of now there is only 1 listing for the spikes @ $6ea but no plastic covers. https://www.ebay.com/itm/265180152333?hash=item3dbdf8020d:g:4gIAAOSwoHlgtPYW

removing the binding post jumpers just separates the 2 section of the internal x-over so the speaker can be bi amp'd. each section is still connected, in other words the lower terminals are going through the woofer section still & the uppers are going through the mid/tweets. im far from an expert on active x-overs but from my understanding to use an active x-over properly you want to bypass the internal passive, otherwise the internal is still in play & will mess with the active's settings. im sure others can chime in & add to this or correct me if what i said is incorrect.

corner placement is usually best.. but it wont fix the fact that heresys drop off fast after ~50hz. some do a port mod but still wont be the low full range bass of larger speakers, only option to get that below 35-40hz is to add a sub or upgrade to other models like forte or the bigger tower models.

my names not mike... but youre welcome. glad the flashlight trick worked for you.

cant comment on the L pad or attenuation on klf's or the proper way to measure them with a meter... but its very easy to tell if mid diaphragms are TI, they will be a shiny looking metal vs black or dark reddish plastic/phenolic. shine a flashlight in the mid horn & should be able to see what it is made of.

nice speakers. arent these closer to the fortes than heresys since they have the same driver arrangement as fortes with the passive?

good lord, 10 pages of unrelated discussion to the OPs problem! start a new thread! i gave up on following the thread after about page 2 or 3... did the OP ever resolve his issue with the bad tweeter ??

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=klipsch+rf3+woofer&_sacat=0

a poll for what?

what do you mean by "upgrade"? actually changing the values of the caps? most people like to keep them original designed values but replace the aging capacitors if/when they fall out of spec. if you want to change value/design in the xover then its probably best to change the drivers as well... but whats involved with that is over my head & im in the camp of keeping things as designed but replacing the capacitors with new of the same type or with higher quality type caps. you could also practice soldering or watch some youtube videos to get better at it & then fix the issue or re-do the questionable soldering you already did? & definitely try swapping the tweeters to the other speakers to see if the tweeter is blown or its the crossover.

post the requested you have, the OP definitely wants...

youre not that one guy...

so is the a55g better than the k55v? i thought all crites products were inferior according to one guy???

the diaphram is shown in the pic . those tweeters are not titanium, they would look like bright shiny metal if they were, those look like original diaphragms. Crites products are not "inferior" at all, that is a subjective opinion. without getting carried away with the whole klipsch authorized thing again, there is nothing wrong with crites products, while the original parts in klipsch speakers are fine for most, there are improved products crites sells like his other tweeters & A55g mids etc. stock crossovers are fine unless the capacitors age & fall out of spec, then they should be replaced with something of your choice, like sonicaps or any other quality brand including the jem ones. Until just recently there were no klipsch authorized capacitors to buy & countless people would use other brands with excellent results as long as the original values were maintained, i'm sure theres alot more involved with capacitors & some others on here can get into more detail about if you wish, but there are probably 10s of thousands or more of satisfied happy customers using crites products & others. as far as the titanium diaphragms go, most people like them & say they made an improvement over the originals, but as with anything in this hobby, each person likes different things & hears different so if you want to try them yourself its well worth the ~$60, if you dont like them you can easily resell them. klipsch are great speakers in stock form but each one has had changes & revisions as time went on for a reason , to improve them , just because they arent 100% original isnt always a bad thing, almost anything can be improved over 100% stock form.

SVS sealed subs are small, their SB1000pro is ~13" cube & gets very good reviews, they ship international too. i have sb2000 that are a 14" cube. lots of options & opinions out there but most brands have excellent performance in the $500-$600 price range.

you said that twice already...

if the glue is still fully adhered to the cone & dust cap it doesnt need to be removed, but for a good clean fit they need to be repositioned exactly how they came off so the 2 surfaces mate. if you can do that & they fit back good without a gap around the edges you can just apply the glue to one surface, usually the cap, then reattach. personally i wouldnt try using something like acetone or lacquer thinner as it may damage or melt the cone. the caps look kinda wrinkled or distorted so your call to reuse them after trying to place them how they came off... as mentioned, new caps that are a good match can be bought new.

what size are you asking for? OD of the stud itself or the hole/threads used in the cabinet? im pretty sure the spikes/feet on the KG, CF & KLF models arent the standard 1/4-20 threads with metal inserts like most feet for subs or isolation pads, they are larger holes that either press in like on KGs or large coarse threads direct into the wood.

thanks for the info, was just curious if you didnt like the sound or reliability of them for some reason. my experience with ERSE & items in stock has never been an issue, but then again im only buying smaller orders each time, i have placed at least 5 orders from them in the last 3-4 years & they are always in stock for the caps i needed & ship very fast via USPS first class mail if under 1lb & no min order or order fee that some places have... also way more econimical prices than PE for daytons etc. i did have to call them 1 time when a lytic cap showed out of stock, the lady answered the phone on the 3rd or 4th ring & was very helpful, she said they can make almost any cap since they are the manufacturer & not a retailer & she was able to have it done by the time my order shipped in a couple days. maybe try them out again or call ahead to be sure the parts you need are in stock?? but usually the website shows if something is out of stock. i dont have much to say about the lytics on the woofer circuit, can only go by what was explained to me that the woofer circuit is basically a "dump" & doesnt have much if any effect on the sound... & the fact that klipsch uses lytics in their woofer sections for most models, & what they say/do is not to be questioned...

can you elaborate on why youre not crazy about them? bob said they tested as good or better than other popular brands of budget caps & for a long time is what he offered as an alternative to sonicaps for people on a tight budget or speakers not worth the more expensive sonicaps... although now i think michael is using or recommending daytons as budget alternatives. they also get very good reviews from others out there that use them with other brand speakers. i have used them in a few different klipsch ranging from chorus2 & forte 2 to kg4 & 5.5 as well as some other brands of speakers, they all sound very good to me, as good or better than the stock caps they replaced. but as usual with this touchy subject, lots of different opinions & situations.