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just to clarify, i dont think anyone implies they "NEED" tons of watts, they are obviously very efficient speakers & will do fine on lower power. BUT, with a lot of power, they do sound very good as well, mostly up loud since the woofer is a pro woofer designed to handle TONS OF POWER. & 35 watts of quality tube power is not really "low" considering many tube amps are less at ~10watts or lower. thats the benefit of heritage & other efficient klipsch speakers, they sound good on almost any kind of amp/power.

nice! love the oiled walnut finish.

lots of threads on forte/chorus upgrades on here, just do a search for them. im sure others will chime in with more details, but to answer your last questions on woofer/passives, some like to dampen the baskets with something like dynamat or roof flashing sold at home depot etc. you can also tune the passives a little lower by adding 1-2oz of weight to the center of the cone on the back side, some washers with rubber cement or epoxy, or just some tape for temporary testing to see if you like it. if they are in good working order, factory woofers are as good or better than the replacement options.

the power is controlled by the volume knob... you can usually tell when its too much power, the sound will break up & distort & with that much power on chorus 2's... your ears will hurt! tubes sound very nice & lower watts work with klipsch because they are so efficient... but for power hungry speakers like the chorus 2 with 1000 watts peak & a pro woofer, if you want loud chest pounding sound or rock concert levels, higher solid state power will do the job better than 35 watts of tube power. plus tube amps are usually 2-5x the price of decent mid level solid state amps... so all comes down to your budget & listening style.

i agree the brush on would be better, the link was to a spray can. i also agree people in general can over do things, but i think a few pieces of the butyl roofing tape or dynamat type stuff if you have it would be a lot easier to apply & definitely easier to remove if needed. & being much thicker would dampen better than a thin(er) coat of plastidip. or the rope caulk which is very cheap & easy to apply/remove, just seems the better approach to not over-doing an experiment with dampening vibrations. any of them will help.

that plasti dip stuff has been around for a long time & is popular for automotive applications like coating wheels or body panels or a whole car. however, it is very thin & likely wont dampen vibrations from horns etc very well. would take 5 or 10 cans to equal the thickness or damping of dynamat or rope caulk etc. much cheaper & easier with better results to use a dynamat type material or the roof & window stuff at home depot or lowes. i also agree its not a waste of time to use a vibration dampening material... the factory didn't use it or many other more expensive items like better capacitors for one reason, cost. the plastic horns on my k-horns would ring if you tapped them lightly with your hand although not as bad as the metal ones. i also have chorus 2 & forte 2 & if you knock or slap the top or sides of the cabinet with your hand they ring like crazy! i plan to use some dampening material on the backs of the horns, & woofer & passive baskets, possible something on the inner cabinets as well. some type of dampening wont hurt anything & if you use the dynamat or rope caulk it will come right off if you dont like it.

you are very welcome. the epics are front ported & should make placement rather simple compared to rear ported or rear passive radiators etc. i liked my cf4s close to but not tucked in teh corners & not towed in much, more forward facing, the big mid horn will throw a pretty large sound stage & stereo imaging was excellent. i would play with their placement a little more to get the sound you are happy with, them deal with the bass, if its too strong, with tone controls or EQ. these epics are one of the most efficient speakers klipsch makes, so big solid state power like that crown is not needed & likely why the sony ES sounds better at everything besides rock concert levels. if you want to use a separate amp, i would suggest something a little more refined & lower power, more like 150-200wpc & a brand geared more towards sound quality than quantity. i have ran my cf4s off an adcom gfa555ii & a rotel amp, both were 200wpc. also keep in mind that receivers are not the best pre amps, getting a real pre amp will sound a lot better than a receiver. every system & room is different so just play around with placement & settings for what you have now, but i still say the sw15 is outdated & not a good mix for the might cf4's! klipsc has some good subs, but many of them have amp issues & are expensive to fix. i would suggest looking at SVS or HSU or velodyne or other brands that specialize in subs. svs has excellent customer service & usually will replace a failed amp even out of warranty sometimes. might want to start another thread in this sub section for suggestions on a good klipsch sub.

they are rated for 100 continuous & 1000 peak. but they cant handle a lot more than 100 watts if the power is clean. https://f072605def1c9a5ef179-a0bc3fbf1884fc0965506ae2b946e1cd.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product-specsheets/Chorus-II-brochure.pdf

congrats on the cf4's! they are great speakers. i tried to find a pic of the rear of your sony receiver & didnt find any clearly showing the outputs, but there is a surround RCA output section & RCA main in/outs. so if there is a single sub out that most 5.1 receivers have, you could use that with a Y splitter. BUT older 5.1 receivers dont have any real bass management & when you tell it sub on, it cuts the main speaker at 80hz. the cf4 are a full range speaker & you dont want to cut any of the low bass out of them. your other option is to use the main pre outs with a y splitter & have 2 going to the sub & the other 2 back into the main rca inputs on the receiver. that will keep full range to the speakers. another suggestion on that sw15 sub is to not use it at all... the sw subs are very old from the early 90's & dont compare to todays subs. they are lower power & dont go much lower than the cf4s anyways & definitely not at the volume the cf4's can do. if you want a real sub, consider a newer option with better inputs/outputs & freq options. personally i would sell the sw15 for a better sub or just run the cf4's alone full range. & another suggestion is to get a newer receiver with more power & output & bass management options. the sony ES stuff is decent, but these speakers are made to handle a LOT more power than 80watts. they will really come to life with great bass with a real 150-200 watts. you could keep the sony as a pre & buy a better separate amp with more power that will make a world of difference vs the sony & let the subwoofer quality bass of the epics shine. so basically, try the speakers by themselves & i bet they sound better than with that sw sub. or try the sub with the main outs & a y splitter for full range to the speakers. & if you really want/need a sub, sell the sw15 & find a better modern sub, even an entry level modern 12" sub will best that ancient sw sub. ive owned the sw10, sw12 & sw15, they are mediocre at best compared to newer subs.

all chorus & chorus2 are 3 way. are they for sale? if so we need a price. nice looking speakers & best of luck on the sale.

that veneer hurts my eyes.. way to busy! & $12k? LOL.

need pics to be sure. what svs sub?

great idea to start a thread like this. lots of these subs out there that are dead & like many other brands of amps & sub plate amps, the glue they used causes most the issues. i have the rw-12d & am sure the glue on the area you have circled is what killed mine. im in the process of cleaning it up & was wondering if you can confirm any other locations that had the bad glue? is it the yellowish-tan glue around the caps & other parts that is the main issue or the dark brown stuff on that small board you have circled? also can you say what you use to remove it? its nasty stuff & so far only physically chipping it away has removed it. mine blew the little round green thermistor too.

i have this same sub with the common blowing fuse issue, this is the best option to repair or replace the original amp. the entire plate is very close in size to the original plate & will bolt in with just a little trimming of the cabinet opening but will lose the digital control. https://www.parts-express.com/bash-300s-digital-subwoofer-plate-amplifier-300w-rms--300-750 but, the other option to retain the digital controls on the sub is to swap out the power supply board which is what goes bad on the original amps 9 times out of 10. the issue is usually related to the glue klipsch & so many other brands used back when these were made, it goes bad over time & becomes conductive causing all kinds of issues. just unbolt the power supply section & swap on to the klipsch board, its a direct fit too. there are a few different places on ebay that repair these amps, just type in klipsch sub amp repair... one guy is about $130 & you pay to ship to him & he covers return in the price.

thats definitely an 80uf cap, maybe the schematic is wrong, or the crappy printing that looks like a 5 is really an 8. anyone else with quartets able to look at yours to verify? i agree a couple numbers wont be a big deal but some would say otherwise. also, maybe the caps have changed over the years & originally were closer to or at spec. the benefit to changing old caps is they are usually replaced with better quality caps than the cheap ones klipsch used. so even if they are within spec, some like to "upgrade" to better caps... even entry level poly caps like daytons are better than the mylar(?) stock klipsch caps. & another FYI: according to Bob Crites, the resistors do not have any affect the sound, so changing them may not do anything, at least not at this level. high dollar x-over builds are a different story & may benefit from better resistors. i would stick to the factory specs if you can get the right values, no reason to change them based on readings from 25+ year old caps.

its personal preference really as to which is better, some like a 3 way & "hot" mids, some like a more toned down 2 way. i know lots of the bigger 3 way klipsch can be very unbalanced with overpowering mids & people do all kinds of "upgrades" & mods to adress that issue. & dont forget, some of the best speakers klipsch makes are 2 ways... epics, jubilee, & some of the pro & KPT models. for many speakers, a 2 way will be a higher quality mid/tweet because they put more of the budget into the 2 speakers vs dividing it up into 3 speakers/drivers/horns. that really applies to car audio too, a 2 way 6.5" or 6x9" speaker is usually better than a 3 or 4 way, at the same price point of course. i dont know the difference in the drivers or diaphram materials between the klf & kg so the 2 way vs 3 way comments i made may not apply here, just something to consider.

i tried to find some technical info on them but came up with very little... just mentioning that based on how they look, if they are just standard fiber or poly type woofer cone material, i'd question how much real sound absorbing they would actually do. you'd think the company would want to provide some details on them so people would know what they are & could compare to other "real" sound absorbing panels out there. but they look cool.

but what is their purpose?

the woofer cap in the quartet is definitely a 50uf according to the schematic posted here. can you post a pic of the x-over? unless there was a revision to the quartet x-over, it should not be 80uf... maybe a previous owner changed it out & misread the value or tried to experiment with changing it? i agree you should keep the values the same as stock. the quartets are great speakers & i see no benefit to change the x-over unless you are doing other major mods.

best of luck on the new fuse... but most likely its not going to fix it. fuses blow for a reason so putting a new one in will probably just blow again. i went through the same thing with the 12" version recently. the issue is the amp itself goes bad (like sooo many other klipsch sub amps) i tried replacing a common bad capacitor on these & after further research i found its usuallly the yelllow glue they use all over on the board, it goes bad & becomes conductive causing shorts in the amp. & its more invoolved that just scraping it off, i tried that as well. there are some places that will repair the amp for about $150-$200, or you can buy a plate amp from parts express & swap out the power section that bolts right in to the klipsch plate or use the entire PE amp with a little mod to the sub box. or, if you have a modern receiver with sub x-over controls you can just run a separate amp to it. these are/were decent subs but the plate amps klipsch uses are prone to failure way to much for me to buy any of their subs.

Here's Mr Crites answer to this question that contradicts most the answers posted. I have no opinion either way, just another answer to consider. Q: Do components have a break-in time? A: Some do and some don't. Capacitors would be a definite NO. Let's look at this one a bit. You have new good quality capacitors installed in your crossovers. Capacitors have exactly two qualities that effect the sound of your music that goes through them. Those are capacitance (what we use them for) and ESR. ESR is the sum of all other qualities of a capacitor other than capacitance expressed as an Equivalent Series Resistance. ESR is a bad thing. Good caps have ESR so low it is barely measurable, on the order of a couple of hundredths of an ohm. ESR is made up of stuff like the resistance of the leads and their connections to the foil inside the capacitor or stray inductance or dielectric absorption. So, we put our new caps in the crossovers. These new caps are right on the capacitance value the design calls for and the ESR is almost unmeasurably low. What exactly of these two qualities do you expect to change with break-in? And if either of them changed, why would you expect the sound to get better since the only way they could change is to go away from the "perfect" values they had to start with? I hope any caps you use in your crossovers are good enough that they do not change at all for many years of use. Q: But my speakers sound so bright after putting in the new caps that I have to hope they change with break-in. In fact I am pretty sure they are getting better as I listen longer. They must be changing. A: Sounding brighter is a good thing. That means your old caps were really bad and had high ESR. That high ESR had the impedance all upset on the crossovers and you had the drivers all trying to play at the wrong frequencies. Also, the high ESR was directly attenuating the high frequencies. Now with the new good caps, the frequency and level relationships are back to where the factory had them when the speakers were new. The fact that you think they are changing now is because you are getting used to them sounding like they should. The break in is occurring but it is inside your head instead of inside the speakers.

cool looking wall art... are these actual sound producing speakers or are they supposed to be acoustic baffles of some sort? depending what they are made of, i dont see much acoustic dampening coming from those.

no offense to your speakers, just answering your question....these are the older cheap best buy line of klipsch & nothing like the quality of other klipsch like the gold woofer reference line or other vintage klipsch heritage models that have high resale value. @wuzzer is pretty close to their value at ~$150 in good condition.

congrats on the new epics! as good as chorus are, i think the cf-4 (regardless of version) is the better speaker. mainly due to the fact that dual 12" woofers will move a LOT more air than 1 15" woofer. plus the d'appolito array makes for better imaging & keeps the possibly overly strong mid range of the chorus to a minimum. & the epics will do just as well in home theater as with 2ch music so its your calll after comparing them which one goes where. i have owned both & prefer the epic over the chorus(2)... but dont get me wrong, i love my chorus2 also & still own them. i regretfully sold the epics to help fund k-horns.

glad you found an amp, carvers are very good. yes you are experiencing the reality of power vs db... doubling the amp power only results in a 3db increase in volume, which in reality is not that much, especially when you are playing at a very loud level already, your ears dont perceive that 3-4db increase as a lot of actual volume. but what you are feeling is the added headroom & the ability of a quality amp to produce the lower bass sufficiently compared to the amp in the receiver. the whole version thing is over rated IMO, the epics are excellent speakers regardless of version & i bet 99% of people cant tell the difference between versions in a blind A-B test. maybe someone that owns v1 & v2 or 3 could tell a very slight difference after going back & forth for a long time, but it would be very minimal at best. enjoy your speakers & new amp!