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The History Kid

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About The History Kid

  • Birthday 01/14/1990

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Eastern Iowa
  • Interests
  • My System
    Berseria System (7.2.1)
    See build link

    Symphonia System (5.1)
    AVR: Integra DTR-40.3
    BluRay: Pioneer Elite BDP-05FD
    TV: Vizio E40-C2
    Main L/R: Klipsch 1981 Heresy OO I w/ Crites XO
    Main C: Klipsch RC-3 II
    Sub: Klipsch KSW-15

    Xillia System (B Zone from Symphonia System) (2.0)
    Main L/R: Klipsch KG-2WO

    Huxian System (2.0)
    SR: Yamaha R-N500
    SA/CD: Yamaha CD-N500
    Turntable: Technics SL-1500
    Cart: Nakamichi CR-1A
    Main L/R: Klipsch 1988 Forte OO

    Zestiria System (2.0)
    Amp: IIIP 40x2 Tube Amp
    Tuner: Parasound vTuner
    Main L/R: Klipsch RP-160M

    Garage System (2.0)
    AVR: Yamaha RX-V2500
    L/R: Klipsch KP-101BR/KOMA

    Misc Gear/Systems:
    Headphones: Sennheiser HD 599 S
    Work Headphones: Klipsch Status
    Work BT: Klipsch Heritage Groove
    Portable: Klipsch Groove

    Amplifier Emeritus
    Aiwa: CX-NAJ20, CX-NAJ305, CX-NDS50
    Denon: AVR-1513, AVR-X4200
    Emotiva: Fusion 8100, MC-700, UPA-1, UPA-2, UPA-5, UPA-500, XPA-2 I, XPA-3 I
    Harman: AVR-354
    Integra: DRX-3.1, DTM-40.4
    Kenwood: VR-305, VR- 414
    Marantz: NR1501, SR5004
    Nakamichi: AV-500
    Pioneer: SA-420
    Rotel: RSP-1582
    Yamaha: RX-A840, RX-V390, RX-V530, RX-V663, RX-V730

    Speaker Emeritus
    Aiwa: SX-C610, SX-NAJ22, SX-NAJ302, SX-NAJ502, SX-R145, SX-R290
    Emotiva: UOM-6.2
    Kenwood: KS-303HT; SW-22HT
    Klipsch: Heresy II, KG-1.2, KLF-C7, KSW-12, KV-1, Quintet Gen II, RB-3CH, RB-25, RC-35, RC-52 II, RF-25, RS-42 II, RSW-10, RSX-4, RSX-5
    Jamo: Cornet 175, E 6 CEN, SURR 150
    JBL: N 38
    MTX: AAL 540
    Pioneer: CS-G53
    Polk: DSW-PRO440, DSW-PRO660, TSi-100
    Sony: SS-MB100H
    Yamaha: NSA 636, YST-160, YST-SW012
    Zenith: Allegro 2000
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Community Answers

  1. As wuzzzer stated, the RP line is the actual successor to the original Reference series. The current Reference (R) series is the successor to the Icon/Synergy. The RP is therefore the better line. As for your RP-8000F vs. RP-280F comparison, the RP-8000F is the newer of the two, and will likely incorporate whatever new technology is the latest with the line.
  2. Saying that Toyota Priuses are garbage and expensive lunchboxes does not mean that Toyota can sue me for slander, no.
  3. I'm not an Atmos expert, but with my limited understanding of Atmos, you could in theory A: use them as object height speakers at the front or rear (this is how I use my RB-5's), B: if you have vaulted ceilings you can aim them upwards since the stands and pedestals are adjustable, or C : Ceiling mount angled downward from above as object heights. The plates are very sturdy and should support ceiling mount. See below for the mount configuration.
  4. April showers bump. They lived through the weather this last week and a half. lol
  5. This seems like a good time to also remind people and learn that there is a difference between power and clean power. One of the biggest reasons I tried so hard to get away from AVR's was that so few of them delivered good clean power without bleeding into the pre/pro pricepoint - and the ones that did meet the requirement tended to slack in other ways. As for your specific situation, Peter brings up a good point, and it ties in with what I mentioned about 2 channels delivering 110WPC rather than all 7. You're much better off to drive music into 2 channels than 7 in an AVR configuration if you plan on playing at high levels for long periods of time. It can help reduce the risk of those issues exponentially.
  6. The maximum output of that AVR with all channels driven is 57WPC, not 110. It is capable of delivering 110WPC into 2 channels. It's maximum power output is 400W total, so it's WPC will not exceed the value of 400W. Otherwise, like others have said, you will be hard pressed to damage your speakers with that configuration.
  7. I did a side-by-side with the RSW-15 in case anyone else was having the same question. The 1600SW may have me putting Klipsch back on the shortlist if I ever have issues with mine.
  8. Another bump. Make an offer. It needs a new home.
  9. The 2.2's I'd run as Speaker A. 2.1's to Speaker B. For the passive sub, you'll run the Speaker A (or B ) from the receiver to the sub input. Then from the sub output, you'll run it to the speakers. Don't double up on the receiver, that isn't how its designed to work.
  10. I held onto these forever, because they're such an awesome speaker, but an offer to upgrade presented itself. Thus, it's time to part ways. These speakers held their own against many other contenders over the years. They've been moved around from computer systems to finally resting in a bedroom. I'm the second owner, but while they've been in my care they've been well cared for. Their only flaw right now is dust! I'm in the process of cleaning the grilles on them, so those are not in the picture below. Drivers are nice and clear, stands are in good shape, binding posts are clean. These speakers are ready to rock someone's world. The satellite speaker that doesn't know it's a satellite speaker is up for $100 + shipping. These don't come around super often anymore (the 5's at least).
  11. The "minimum input" figure is something I've never understood - especially with Klipsch speakers. The mainstay of Klipsch speakers (or one of them anyway) has always been their power efficiency. Plenty of us power systems with as little as 1 watt. Let alone 120.
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