Dkfan9

The main difference between the B10 and the R14M is the horn. But I think what you said stands otherwise.

Try one speakers at a time, standing next to it, all AVR settings at default. Check the wires to ensure the straps are in place, and the speakers are wired in correct polarity.

If you are running Audyssey settings for the old speakers on the new speakers, that could easily explain the issues you're having. Have you tried just turning Audyssey off?

If only I was headed out that way. I like the idea of trying the KV4

Biamp is fine. It probably isn't adding all that much but it's not a problem. "Plus" or yes comes down to room response and preference. Multiple bass sources could be a good thing, evening out room anomalies, or a bad thing, amplifying other anomalies or putting out too much bass (unless you EQ it properly but its hard to EQ double bass properly in a receiver). You can try it both ways, and you may bee able to adjust the crossover so the mains play solo down to 40hz or 60hz and the bass is doubled below that. As for setting a crossover with small settings, 80hz is THX standard and a very common setting. Sometimes going lower is better, depending on taste, what slope the receiver uses, frequency response, and the room. Try it to see what you like best. Going above 80hz can be an issue because we hear bass directionally above 80hz but not really below 80hz. The additional reason to use small and crossover to the sub is to avoid intermodulation distortion and Doppler distortion. These occur due to woofers playing low and relatively high frequencies at the same time and distorting at and around the higher frequencies. Through a little bit of trial and error you can find the best compromise among these compromises.

The horn too hot relative to the woofers could lead to deficiencies in the sound of the mids/bass

Hmm, didn't see anything about Klipschorn on that page, but some interesting reading. In another thread Romy mentions wishing death upon someone at another audio forum.

6 feet is better, imo. But neither the Dolby standards nor the Klipsch recommendations are gospel. Are you doing surround sound or just two channel?

Thanks! I've been interested in this discrepancy for a while, so I'm very grateful for the disclosure and discussion this topic brought

Unfortunately there aren't a lot of measurements out there for the lower end line. I hope to get some measurements on my speakers up in the next month or so, even if just for comparison... Got a UMIK 1 a while back but haven't really had an opportunity to set it up for extended measurements with housing changes, but that's settling down. I've got the R28Fs, P17Bs, Academy, and KTDS (as far as Klipsch goes), so it could be an interesting comparison.

I mean, these Synergy B20s don't have a smiley face response http://www.soundandvision.com/content/klipsch-synergy-b-20-speaker-system-ht-labs-measures#XGOhlVYukxBBs33J.97

The +4db room gain addition brings the quasi anechoic magazine measurements mostly in line with the rated specs. Stereophile: P17B 90.7 vs 94 rated; P39F 94.7 vs 99 rated; RB15 90 vs 93 rated. Sound and Vision: RF83 94 vs 100 rated; RC64 94.5 vs 99 rated; RS62 93.5 vs 97 rated; RVX42 92 vs 94 rated; RSX4 87 vs 90 rated; RP250C 91 vs 96 rated; RP150M 88 vs 93 rated; RP250S 90 vs 95 rated. And the AVS post, 95 vs 98 rated. S&V uses 500 to 2khz, so there is room for discrepancy there as well (see the dip above 1khz in their measurements on the RF83).

KSP series? And why are the SF3 a level up from the other budget line dual 8s?

Very cool, ill have to take you up on that sometime. Most of my family is in Cincinnati and Dayton, so I'll be through plenty

You don't have to amp separately, you just have the option. I personally have no idea if it would help the sound. Is think it would do so only if you need more power, or you want to use tube on highs and solid state on lows or something like that.

Yep, the strap. They've got separate posts just like the higher end towers. I'm not sure if it's worth it to biamp them, I've never tried it (though you've given me a good idea for an experiment). They do dip below 4ohms in the bass, so some additional current capacity might help them on the low end.

Not too far from you, Cincinnati area, though soon to be Columbus.

They're 225 every black Friday, along with occasional other sales. Tweeter issue sounds like the connecting plates between the biwire posts are missing and they connected them to the woofer posts to test... Just a guess. Price currently on this ad is great if that's the only issue, just run a little piece of wire between top and bottom posts and good as new. I'm very happy with my R28Fs. This is close to me. But I don't have room for any more speakers right now especially duplicates...

In many experience running antenna to tv then coax to receiver vs everything else to receiver then to tv, audio syncs better when run through the AVR first. For sports and news, it's not a big deal, but for movies I care a lot more. I would run everything through the receiver, there should be no degradation in quality.

Is that a giant wood phase plug?

Good to hear! I guess for further refining you could try turning the treble and bass negative, or using graphic eq to boost the midrange (preferably with measurenents). But overall, if you're happy that's what matters.

You should turn all tone controls to 0 to properly judge the speaker. If you have the treble and bass boosted, I would expect the treble and bass to overwhelm the midrange.

Oh, and turn Dialog Level Adjust off.

Any blu ray/DVD/CD player (or a PC) will be sufficiently high quality to test with and see if the issue is the source or the speakers/room.

If the speaker is still under warranty Klipsch may replace it free of cost. Otherwise, Klipsch would be one source. Another is http://reconingspeakers.com/product/klipsch-r-28f-tweeter-1061375/ That is the whole assembly, with horn