Ol_mcdonald

I'm just OCD and always asking myself why didn't I... Just curious about the drivers and horn, theres a lot of mods and tweaks out there, most seem unpopular to what I assume are the purist. Agreed, absolutely have to increase thickness of motorboard in the area of recess. Its probably in the neighborhood of 1/2" thick. I do my own thing, I have no intention of selling my K horns.

Routers are your friend! A template is critical to accuracy when using a router, which is an art in itself. I built a sub last year and when finished I asked my self....why didn't I recess that driver. Next time. What horn/driver is that you used?

Do you intend to recess the horn into the motor board flush?

Thank you again for the valuable insight!

Excellent! Thank you for the reply and outstanding info. I have actually visited that site i do believe back around 1990 or so. I went to the office and asked about the museum and they said it is across the street, told me there was no one available to show me around and proceeded to hand me the keys and told me to make myself at home! I'll never forget that hot summer day and the smell of the inside.It was like paradise, so much to see and my imagination went wild. Oh the stories these pieces of audio history could tell. I've never been the same! Can you tell me where the speakers and listening positions were located relative to this photograph? Are there any other photographs of the smaller polycylindric cylinders! Thank you again for the information, it is much appreciated!

Hey Dave, Got those beautiful horns installed and finally up and running (somewhat) after a long hiatus. I am curious, I almost always hear people talking about the Xilica dsp I have no hands on experience with the brand, but have had many dbx components and bought a dbx Driverack. I see the Xilica has a higher sample rate, but otherwise their functions are basically the same. Why did you choose the Xilica versus the Driverack? I am just curious! I am having issues of a similar nature with my dsp. Instrumental playback sounds good but vocals are somewhat muted and breathy, as if it is compressed...no compression, limiting, or alignment are on. I have experimented with the different MF attenuation settings on my passive HF/MF X-over but the problem persists. Tweaked the PEQ here and there with no real luck and like yourself have not deciphered REW yet....way over my head. I have utilized the dbx Auto EQ also with no effect on the issue at hand. Weak vocals and breathing is the best I can describe it. Hope you are doing well Dave! Give me a shout when you get to Nashville sometime.

I am interested in information about room treatments as per Dope From Hope Volume 1, Number 4, dated 16 December 1960, and further described in Volume 5, Number 1, dated 24 February 1963 in what Mr Klipsch described as "Studio 116" . I am curious if any photos exist of that room and the placement and orientation of the panels described in those volumes. I understand of course every room is different and the placement in that room will likely be different from mine. I am mostly curious about their finish...if the Masonite sheet was left in their "mill" finish, painted, covered with other (fabric?) material, the actual framework used to mount them and how varied the height, width and depth was, but would appreciate any information on the polycylindric panels and Studio 116. I am using 1977 vintage Klipschorns in a room closely similar in size and volume to Studio 116. My room is 16' x 26' x 9'6". My apologies if this has been spoken to, I would appreciate some reference to direct me to that thread. Thanks in advance!

It states in DFH referenced above the "studio" in Hope was 10 x 16 x 25 ft. which is supposedly near the Golden Mean and is what I modeled my new room by. Mine is 9.5 x 16 x 26.

Thank you for the info. Where would one procure the K 402 horn, and what is the preferred driver?

There we go.

I used 3' thick Roxul Safe n Sound inside. I used ¾" plywood frames, glued and (air) nailed with 2"x 2" x 3/4" pine gussets in each corner. I covered them with G of Maine fabric and a "felt" material on the back to ensure no rockwool fibers are flying around. Also used screw in "hooks" in the ceiling and eye bolts in ceiling panels Simple Z brackets are going to be utilized to hang wall panels. Now, who has the down low on finding the first reflection points on K horns. Everybody i have asked tries to explain it to me as if I didnt say I had Klipschorn and had "square" speakers. Mirror trick doesnt seem to work. Pics coming.

Old school 2 channel guy here, in the process of building a new home with a listening room and have a few questions about outlets, sequencers and triggers and how to properly connect them. Not the sophisticated system some own/discuss/revere here, but I don't have the budget for esoteric equipment either. Just the same, I am looking forward to re-assembling my system with some new components when I get in there and have high hopes! I have one 120v 15 amp/14 ga dedicated circuit, and one 20 amp/12 ga dedicated circuit. I plan on using 15 and 20 amp hospital grade isolated ground outlets. My system consists of a Pyle power conditioner with 8 outlets, Emotiva preamp, DBX driverack/PA2 crossover, CD/Blu-Ray/4K player, three Crown power Amplifiers (1/sub, 1 LF, 1/MF, HF) with my Klipschorns being bi-amped using ALK crossovers. Two of the three power amplifiers will never see anywhere near their output power driving the K horns, but the third driving my sub may require a little more amperage from the power source if/when the sub is driven hard. So here are my questions; My amplifiers have a connection for trigger, I have never used triggers and not 100% certain how they work...can or do they work with a sequencer? Do they "daisy chain" to my pre-amp or??? Should my amps even be plugged into the sequencer since it will experience a current draw from all the other components connected to it? Do I plug my "low demand" amps into sequencer and the sub amp in the 20 amp outlet? Just not sure of the optimum way to connect everything electrically! Thanks in advance for your input!

You are welcome. It is a good video explaining in fairly simple terms the difference between balanced and unbalanced connections. I was speaking of the .0002 difference in THD, is imperceptible. If say a person has a hum or noise problem from a wad of cables crossed up every which way or a long mic cable, balanced interconnects will make a distinguishable difference, and yes may possibly provide better specs you could only observe under laboratory conditions. Oh, and high dollar fancy cables are a rip, buy some decent cable in the 10-20 buck range for a pair. Don't be sucked in by the 500 buck single cable that claims to be superior, it's wire. Save your money for something else.

YAY! Somebody gets it! The performance "gains" mentioned would be imperceptible.

Sorry for the late reply, holidays ya know. I have a new Driverack in storage awaiting a new homes completion, but it seemed to be what I needed at a very reasonable price. I love your inputs with the speakON connections. I modified my K horns with Neutrik speakOn in a similar fashion; Input routed to LF inside woofer bin, with output to MF/HF tops. I can't wait to get my hands on it and finally hear this setup in my new room. I also bought mine on amazon at about the same price, a bargain considering all it does. Thanks for the reply, I haven't seen much mention of the dbx here and was curious if I was the only one , I have always been a fan of their products and have owned several over the years, companders I used with tape, 20/20 EQ, program route selectors, 4bx etc. Always performed well and reasonably priced in a segment where there are many overpriced products for my budget.

The four holes are mounting holes for the terminal block. Since the screws pass thru the enclosure securing it (and passing signal to the inside) the holes weren't needed.

Keep the fuses, they are cheap insurance against damaged drivers and no noticeable sound degradation.

Anybody here ever use the dbx Driverack PA2?

Sometimes they are "sunken" into the plywood just out of sight, having been overtightened. When you find them, use a #2 phillips bit and press down firmly and slightly turn the bit to ensure it is engaged in the screw head to prevent damage to it. Back it out slowly and don't allow the bit to slip inside the head causing damage. I've seen guys strip the head out so bad removing it requires some degree of skill.

False corners? I have full corners on the walls surrounding the Khorns...10" of steel reinforced poured concrete and 2x4 insulated walls with 5/8" sheetrock. I am not referring to false corners, I am talking about wings attached to the speaker to enhance the bottom end. There is a photo here somewhere, maybe the Pilgramage...

I have seen mentioned in random posts "wings" for the Klipschorn. Can someone here direct me to a link or thread that contains more info. I have a pair of '77 vintage Khorns and soon to be moving them into a new home with my first listening room. Thought about the possibility of adding the if there is sound agreement it is a worthy project. I can live with them easy enough "as is" but thought it might be a good time to work on em if it's worth the effort. Thanks in advance!

Eventually saw the reference to Dope from Hope from 2/68. I'm right in the Golden Mean!

Not my room, that is dtel's actually. I anticipate placing my sub between the K horns.

Thanks for the welcome, been browsing the forum for a while albeit infrequently but enjoy it very much. All well on the farm if I could just give this builder a swift kick in the.... Anyway, I did not realize the thread was as old as it is until now, thanks for responding, and please chime in with comments or suggestions, I'm just an audio nut with no practical engineering or design experience and would like to forego any really obvious stupid decisions. My first dedicated listening room, it will be totally below grade, inside 9.5" thick, steel reinforced concrete walls covered with 2x4s 16" OC with 5/8 sheetrock (I like the 3/4" plywood idea too), concrete slab floor, W2W carpet, the room has no windows and is a perfect rectangle. I will have my electronics installed in a rack within a wall with access from the rear via a "closet" with a 3'0" door, which will be within a mechanical room. I have a vintage pair of Klipschorns purchased from singer/songwriter John Prine back in the 70's. I have a sub I built from scratch (18"/11cft ported) recently for my new installation, which brings up another subject..do I set it directly on the slab floor (possibly a subject for a different thread or revive another old one)? I plan to bi amp my K-horns (just for fun, I know it isn't necessary) and use ALK crossovers for the MF/HF, all driven by Crown amps. Thanks JJK for the wall treatment info and mirror trick, I had wondered how to determine the placement of any sort of diffusers (I reflect to Dope again) or absorbent panels, good info. Thanks to all.

Roger has it right. I am building currently also. My room will be 16 x 26 with 9'6" ceilings. Paul's listening room dimensions if memory serves me right....also read in Dope from Hope years ago.