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Everything posted by tom1066

  1. Congrats. Very happy for Gasly and his fans. That race was actually exciting without the Mercedes up front.
  2. What a finish! - thought the DRS was going to help Sainz for a moment there. Gasly is freaking out over the radio - great moment for the Alpha Tauri team. Or for that matter any non-Mercedes team.
  3. Gasly in first - but now almost within a second which could mean Sainz could get the DRS. Very close. Sainz now withing stricking distance - last lap!
  4. 3 laps - the interval between them doesn't appear to be changing though - Gasly may do it!
  5. The McLaren's haven't won a race since 2012? Been a while. Maybe Gasly can keep it up and pull it off. 🤞 Can he hold Sainz off though?
  6. wow what a restart - maybe Sainz will be able to get ahead of the three ahead of him. Or maybe Lando can do it - he's one of my family's favorites.
  7. Well now it looks like Stroll will be able to get a pit stop? - so with Hamilton's penalty he will be in front. Crazy.
  8. Now with Hamilton's penalty - maybe they can move up to first depending on the pits. Don't know if Stroll can get new tires during this red flag session, but if he is unable to then he and the others would have to pit when they go back to green flag racing. That would possibly allow the Mclarens to move up to the front.
  9. I'll take them and give it a try. PM on the way.
  10. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/98877-how-to-new-grills-grill-cloth-etc/ Unfortunately the pics in the first half of the thread are missing but there are pics later on, that may help in piecing together how this technique works. I have been meaning to get around to trying to build the cloth clamps he describes and giving it a try.
  11. I found this thread at one point in researching mods - lot of info on the cobraflex for la scalas? I found a pair online and they are still sitting in my basement unused. Maybe I should pull them out.
  12. I was in a very similar situation a while back, even using the oppo 203 like you have been. Eventually went with a Mcintosh d100 I found used. Since it has a pre-amp in it, I guess it all stays digital. I even removed my rebuilt marantz 7 tube pre-amp from the line-up. The mac has balanced outputs as well. I thought about the Brooklyn products for a while and am still thinking about trying one; they seem to do everything. The Mac doesn't have phono though. I have had about 10 DACs, and I eventually narrowed it down to a couple and thought the Mac was better than the others. And even then I'm not sure I heard much difference it just seemed more neutral? maybe not quite as bright; though I hate those terms they seem to fit. Not sure if the d100 fits all your requirements but I like mine. The newer d150 may be even better. And its the only mcintosh product I have in my current system so I'm not a fanboy of theirs or anything (I find most of it too expensive).
  13. Thanks, I am going to go through this a couple of times to see how much I understand. On some random search, I ran across one that had a waveguide on both sides. Not sure what that would improve. I have enjoyed following along and have been trying to stop myself from ordering another pair. A previous AMT thread on this site led me to buying one pair last year and I've enjoyed them on top of my Cornwalls from time to time.
  14. I know it's been mentioned a couple of times, but how would a waveguide achieve a better (or worse) response. I guess I'm asking what would a waveguide improve? I found an old beyma waveguide for an amt like product and some diy ones, like the one below. Would it improve off axis listening? Or help with the crossover? Just wondering how much effort it's worth over a "straight wing" design.
  15. I have always wanted to hear a pair of any Oris horns. Where in north Texas are you? And pm me the price as well. One more question - originally how long did it take originally from ordering them to receive them?
  16. I'll take them, but I may not be able to pick them up for a while. I pm'd you. Thanks!
  17. I don't know if this is exactly the same thing but check out this 11 year old thread about building the MWM bass bins: Having the corners cut off allows for more back chamber volume. As for the slot opening here is another old thread: "In my view, the restriction slot is there to form a chamber in front of the diaphragm. Classic theory is that it is possible to bump up the response at, here, 400 Hz, if you have a chamber in front of the diaphragm. The front chamber volume "spring" forms a resonance with the mass of the diaphragm" ; Not saying I understand it - here is another post from that same thread:
  18. Would the super pies work well with 402s for a two way system? These (meaning the pies) look like something I might could pull off.
  19. I 100% agree with you and I am certainly not being argumentative. I am not an expert or fanatic on these things or pretty much anything for that matter. Some people want the good-alls in and some want them out - I would say if they are replaced, just keep them. If for some insane reason you decide to sell the amp, some of the people/collectors that value the original stuff would want them and may pay more for having them. Heck if you are going to replace them just use these, the "super" capacitors that some of the Japanese restorers swear by. https://www.partsconnexion.com/arizona-film-capacitors.html Again I do not have an opinion on them and I do not condone, endorse, or swear by them. I have read some info and read about others that have used them and their enjoyment of them, but I have not heard any amps with them. And probably with my hearing loss, I doubt I could tell a difference if there is in fact a difference. Fortunately I do not have golden ears because it would mean this hobby could possibly become even more expensive.
  20. I have an 8 (not the b) that I run with Cornwalls. It is a fantastic sounding amplifier to my ears. After having it a while I put in quad of Mullard El34s and the sound improved over the tubes that came with it. I got a ton of information about the marantz 8 at AK. Here is a link about newer tubes that work well in the 8 or 8b: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/best-new-el34s-for-8b.880974/#post-13010239 There is a member there, crooner, who restores vintage marantz tube units. He had some recs about what to replace, what to leave, etc; I guess in an effort to not change the overall sound. Not that his suggestions were the only ones I read about or were recommended but he did a restoration of a marantz 7 tube pre-amp that was really well thought out and planned, so I felt comfortable with his recs. Here is that thread link - https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/ultimate-marantz-model-7-restoration-thread.727823/ I know that just for starters, as mentioned above, he recommended replacing the bias supply power caps (he actually said the old top hat diodes are fine and to leave them) and the cathode resistors. He is a big fan of leaving the Good-All caps in place as well. He also recommended using EF90 tubes as a replacement for the 6BH6, they have the mesh plate and are made in Holland. Congrats on obtaining a great amplifer, I'm sure you will love it. Tom
  21. Dave - Where do you find the 25 mm BB in Nashville? From one of the big national stores or a local place? My cursory attempts to find it here in Birmingham have been unsuccessful but I keep looking around. Thanks, can't wait to see this project, esp the crossover, dsp, etc. Tom
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