glens

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-yGtuBolnYqv/p_745C388/NAD-C-388.html Don't know if that's the best price around, just the first hit on the search engine. Add the BlueOS module and you're all set.

Dean, earlier in this thread or the original one, there's a pic of more of the room. I don't think side reflections are a problem.

Or more than mildly...

Alternate method is using a paper towel core as a stethoscope. One end on your ear, other end in the horn.

It wasn't too many years ago I was still stuck on dial-up so I filtered incoming web pages to remove fluff like that (the animations). 6 minutes per megabyte. Most web "pages" are more like apps anymore and can have a MB or more of text alone, but at least it's highly compressible for transmission. Beyond all that, I've always been mildly annoyed by that stuff anyway.

The networks you're getting already make use of a transformer for level-matching. If you have a speaker with separate low/high inputs you can try the first diagram and one day it'll maybe sound better one way or the other, another day maybe the opposite results, or no real difference ever (that'd be my bet - the windings don't care if they're used or left "dangling in air").

What the hell is this, a forum version of twiddling thumbs waiting on parts?

I thought the reason for keeping the tweeter going through a resistor was to keep from practically shorting the amp at the crossover frequency via the cap and coil in series. Or is the switch between the cap and the bypass coil?

Aren't the polys normally normally-closed across a resistor with a little meat on it's bones? I don't see it or the new polys in place...

I wouldn't bypass them either. It looks like you've already got better caps than that spot needs anyway.

Well, there's a chance it might clean up the signal that's being drained off before the woofer sees it. I say that mostly in jest for a couple reasons, but it stands to reason that if signal is being more cleanly bypassed (the 68 uF is itself a bypass cap), the transition area to "not bypassing" would be cleaner and the woofer might see fewer "jagged edges" where it's still told to make some noise.

Were they open-sided or closed?

Assuming 6.5" driver on the 160s and 2 4" drivers on the other (going by what's in the thread), using those figures, which are too large, the piston area of the dual 4s is only 75% of that of the single 6.5. If it's only 6.0 then the (still wrong) ratio is up to nearly 90% for the 4s. Has to be better bass from what you've got. Can you drain the sand? Or how about a second, lightweight set of stands for the odd occasions?

Vinyl cabinet "veneer", so maybe a higher level, but not of the higher levels?

How about crossing their axes in front of you? What's that do for the sweet spot?

Said to be running the 402 temporarily in place of an Altec 811B in an Altec 19 system, so I'd say nominally 800 Hz.

Perhaps an unterminated plug in the headphone jack would enable the outputs while killing speaker output. It sounds like no-load logic determines output capability and a bare plug should do that.

Near as I can tell from the meager documentation, the L and R outputs are pre-amp out, not fixed level like a tape monitor. And the LFE output tracks volume along with them, but has a level trim function as well. In order to use that signal to drive other equipment you'll most likely need to disconnect the speakers from the unit or insert a connector into the headphone jack. Usually that will kill output to the speakers, the manual doesn't say (much of anything!). An unterminated plug or adapter would be better than headphones for that purpose. The volume control will need to be most of the way "up." Should suffice nicely for feeding LP playback to an encoder. How does anybody consider manuals like that provided for this gear worth the time invested in preparing them?

Ziggurat, although that crossover has a modicum of frequency-shaping ability, you may consider a few dollars for the parts in parallel with the HF driver in the drawings shown in While I realize the drivers are different, I believe those network elements are primarily for shaping the output of the horn.

Guess that would depend on whether it fails open or closed.

Interesting dust covers.

I'd go more like 1/8" radius, but I like it. As much material was removed on these the mouth is probably measurably more flexible, but not a deal-killer.

Or the voice coils in all the drivers are toast...

I kind of like the rounded corners...

Unless one needs to and can accommodate some room errors across the board, tweaking it for different songs (more properly different albums, God knows how much they've always varied) is pretty much the reason for it's existence, no?