glens

That horn doesn't require any frequency response shaping?

I very highly recommend Free42 in case that's not what you got. There's a downloadable PDF manual that'll take several days to peruse. Still got the original 42S in perfect working order. Those double-shot keycaps look as good as new and still have all their tactile glory. Also among others have a 48S that I picked up new from HP for $25 when they unloaded their remaining stock saved for warranty after it was discontinued. Doubt they had many warranty claims on the calculators made through the '90s. Don't know about for Apple, but the 48 (S and G) is also available for computers / devices. HP released the ROMs for them for just such purpose, though if you had a 48 you could send your own ROM out the serial port. But the 48s aren't RPN, they're RPL and you can program them at 3 levels for increased operational speed if you know ahead of time what kind of objects are on the stack so it doesn't have to check them first and direct the work to the proper routines. Or if you can and want to program the bare metal. One nice thing about the 48s is programs / variables are stored in a directory structure. If what you want is in the working directory that's what'll get used. If not and there's one of the same name in a higher-level directory, that's the one it'll use. Different objects in different directories gan have the same name, unlike with the "equivalent" (ahem) TI calculators, where a name can only be used once globally. A posting about the X Window System program "x48" on HP's dial-up mirror of comp.sys.handhelds (or the other group, can't think of it) was what introduced me to Linux!

Buy some relatively cheap Home Depot speaker wire and run it for a while. Then get something more upscale and try it for a while. Then swap back again for a bit, then again for a bit. Paint us an impressionistic portrait when you've done that. We'll all benefit from your time and effort. Thank you ahead of time.

Are they multiple of 57-1/8" long? That's what matters more than jacket color

There are different adhesion methods used, so that's a factor. I'd warm things up with a heat gun and see if a putty knife could get behind it and do some useful damage. If the veneer looks okay apart from the bubbles I'd spend a few minutes trying to get them stuck back down. Again, I'd first try heat only this time followed by pressure. Another option is to slit the bubble with a razor blade and work some glue in behind it. Might get lucky and not have to sand or touch up finish after.

But then he'd have to hunt for it. This way it falls ready to hand.

We're just keeping it alive 'til you get back with your data.

Like Hewlett-Packard's RPN. Takes a minute to get used to, and thereafter it's difficult to use a "regular" calculator 'cause it's so cumbersome. (RPN for those unfamiliar.)

Star-quad cable provides both benefits and detriments, neither of which are going to appear, surely, in a 15-foot run. But I'd bet they'd sound just fine.

That Sewell wire is #12 OFC 259-strand wire according to their website. Pretty reasonably priced as well.

Which was my point. Serious ends with 15' of #14 zip cord. Extravagant starts there.

If the retreads are rated to 80 mph they'd be entirely suitable for any use I'd currently put any car to. I can go 50' with a #14 extension cord and pull 10 amps all day long, that's 1200VA (could be Watts depending on the load). #12 works even better if more VA is needed, but gets a bit unwieldy so is relegated to the longer runs (where it's even more unwieldy). If I was going to need 20 Amps I'd go with #12 from the start. Would that size wire benefit my sound system at 20' lengths? It wouldn't hurt, but would be an awful lot like buying a Bugatti to commute with.

Might have to use thin cork strips a few places under it, but it would look very good and be painless to dust.

How about a link instead of a screenshot? Looks like fine zip-chord and if the wire is adequate size (i.e. it ain't all insulation we're seeing) copper, go for it. For 15' #12 would work okay but is a fair bit extravagant. Even #14 would be though that's what I go with. No need to save a few cents on speaker wire, but certainly no need to throw away dollars.

A crane's not fancy equipment?

Or splurge and go #14.

Look at the impedance graph in that spec sheet. The low spot between (what would be) the two humps at the left sure looks a lot like 34 Hz to me. Go to the Eminence website and have a look at the different woofers. The higher the sensitivity, the less low they go. What do you want? Deeper bass and moderate sensitivity or what you're getting?

I'd think they produce the sound or they don't - with your head right at the mouth or 100 yards away. Seems you're sitting in a null brought on by an unfortunate combination of positioning in relation to the room dimensions.

How long are the runs gonna be?

Have you tried a factory reset? The firmware page mentions a problem with the Android utility but not what that problem is.

If anything in the chain doesn't interact, you got no sound!

Got a local glass company? Have them cut a couple pieces of blackened glass to lay in the bottoms.

I don't know the Luxman (or the Yamaha), but maybe Phil(?) wants something with a DAC or the Luxman is getting tired and a refresh is more than he wants to spend, or something, anything. He didn't expound on the "why" of it; just wanted to know about the suitability of the Yamaha?

I was unaware that impedance factored through a transformer. I wonder why they were used with amps having output transformers? I always figured output transformers were just for voltage-matching. Got a link to any of PWK's notes on the subject?

What happens if you turn off your phone and turn off your router, then power up the gate? If that works (except it won't be able to do anything, but at least not complain about an update?), power up the router again, and if it still doesn't complain about an update, then turn your phone back on and start the app. Let's see where this process gets you - unless someone else comes along with first-hand knowledge of the problem along with a solution. I'd just like to know what happens with my idea otherwise. I won't hold it against you that you're French, unless you became so by choice - HaHaHa. Just kidding.