MechEngVic

Stick those KG4's in the corners, angle them in at 45 degrees, and crank those suckers! An audio system is just that: A system. All the pieces will work together to produce a particular sound. Work the placement, work the source, work the connectors, wires, tubes. You will eventually get the best possible sound you can get with that system. It'll take a while. Then you'll know what you do and don't like about your system, It might not be the speakers you change.

Thanks for your answer, I'm going to do it. I'll report back.

Having heard an A/B with a Mac275 and a Bob Latino ST-120, I recommend the ST-120. I couldn't believe it either but it sounds better.

Can you please point out what resistor(s) you're talking about?

I've never heard a tube amp I didn't like, and I've heard many. And the best tube amp I've ever heard was one of Bob's st-120's, I wish I knew exactly what tubes/upgrades it had. In my experience the "subjective" part was always elsewhere, either with poorly placed speakers, a reflective room, or a poor source, and with a little tweaking I've mostly been able to get a tube amp sounding good. I have yet to listen to a really good single-end so I will defer to your judgement there. The couple I listened to sounded gorgeous, just not loud enough. I will agree with you 100% that system cohesiveness is the main sound factor.

I just found this image online. But I do have experience rolling tubes. You just gotta do it. Buy a few sets, you can almost always get the majority of your money back if you decide not to keep them. In my experience, the component will sound the best when mated with the tube the circuit was designed around, I usually roll different brands or NOS vs NEW. If you're getting an improvement in sound with a different tube, the original tubes may be poor quality or you might have speaker placement issues, especially if you have a subwoofer. You can't imagine the impact on high frequency and imaging subwoofer placement and phase can make. That being said, I don't discount what others have said about a different tube sounding better in that particular circuit. There are many variables. Are you not happy with the sound of the preamp?

Can we see those 20 watters please?

I don't have that amp, but I wish I did. Dynaco built the st-70 back in the 50's and it was a great amp with a couple of problems. The second version of the st-70, the series II (which I own), addressed the issues to make an extremely robust, powerful, and wonderful sounding amp. Bob Latino has taken the design of the original st-70, incorporated some of the improvements of the series II, and made several other improvements. They are some of the most highly rated tube amplifiers available anywhere at any price. I heard an A/B sound test with one of Bob's st-120's and a 6000.00$ McIntosh MC275, and my partner and I both agreed that the st-120 sounded better. And I'm not the only who thinks so: http://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t1930-comparing-my-vta-st-120-with-my-mcintosh-mc275 MY BABY:

Interesting company, expensive products. I think you pay a premium for a certain artistic-ness. I like the whole museum thing they do with Andrew Bird, one of my current favorite musicians. I tend to like any company selling tube products because they are helping propagate the species. All things considered, They sell my two favorite things: Tubes and Horns!

Cool!!! Looks multi-channel... Mixer? PA?

I just knew those several years in school was gonna come in handy one day!

I remembered one of the experiments we did in physics class in college where we found the resonant positions of a pair of speakers emitting the same signal. There are several positions, not just where the diaphragms align, where the drivers will be in-phase. Not happy with the reflections off the top of the speaker cabinet with the tweeter and horn aligned. I looked for a resonant position towards the front and found one about a half inch past the end of the motor-board. In-phase, resonant, and no reflections! It sounds awesome.

This will make you a pair of 10ft cables that the fancy brands will want to sell you for hundreds of dollars. About 60 bucks. https://smile.amazon.com/GS-Power-Aluminum-Primary-Trailer/dp/B0796JJHTQ/ref=sr_1_8?crid=I7ZCZFKKHBPR&keywords=10+guage+ofc+speaker+wire&qid=1573866172&sprefix=10+guage+ofc%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-8 https://smile.amazon.com/Copper-Speaker-Connectors-Locking-Connector/dp/B07MPMJRY1/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=copper+spade+connector&qid=1573866583&sr=8-6 https://smile.amazon.com/PET-Braided-Cable-Sleeve-100ft/dp/B07FTRB3ZK/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?crid=25OERMG8PRIQF&keywords=wire+sheathing&qid=1573866662&sprefix=wire+sheath%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-22-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTFhTSDZQSTc4Qk5KJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODQ3MDU1M1dMWlNKR1MyM1A3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwMjc0NDgxN0o3TEoySFZZTU1HJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYnRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynakit-Stereo-35-Tube-Amplifier-with-BIAS-Control-EL84-Push-Pull-Dynaco-ST-35/293329354683?hash=item444bcabfbb:g:OdAAAOSw9fZdyrlM https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynaco-St-70-Stereo-Tube-Amplifier/153651402281?hash=item23c6565629:g:JaUAAOSwg5JdhTl8 No affiliation. These are highly regarded amps. Sellers have good feedback. Or, if you are willing to spend a bit more, you can buy from the best: http://www.tubes4hifi.com/bob.htm

Very true, then it is imperative to de-ox those knobs and get back to some good listening! Any lube with di-electric properties will work. If you can open up your pre and get the lube directly in the knobs, that would be best. What model is your pre?

If I had built those crossovers, I wouldn't want anyone else to "butcher" them either. I'd want to be the one to replace the caps.

Should've known Mr. Bonehead wasn't really asking a question here, but rather making a point. Upon further testing, I noticed that lining up the tweeter with the horn diaphragm, while making a big improvement in sound, does cause reflections from the top of the cabinet that cause destructive interference at positions in front of the speaker. Further testing will show if there is a way to get the best of both worlds. I don't think padding or insulation will work. Maybe a structure of some sort... Mr. Bonehead, please chime in.

I don't have K-Horns, I have KLF-10's. But I have been playing with a top mounted tweeter. I found a titanium dome tweeter at Parts Express on clearance for 6 bucks, I thought "How could I go wrong?". They came with their own 3.3uf cap (which I will upgrade eventually). I mounted them on a piece of 2x4 along with an L-pad. Lining them up with the horn diaphragm is the best position, reflections or not. I'm also trying different angles which can really open up the sound-stage. I recommend doing this, if for no other reason than all the fun of experimentation and associated learning. I think they will become a permanent part of the speakers, at least until I can get a pair of MAHLs.

Tell them you would send them back but your afraid of getting the same problem again, and that an upgrade should cure you of your fear. After all, now you're the one doing them a favor.

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html https://www.partsconnexion.com/

Now that's a reflection!

If it's happening to all 4 caps, and they are all the same brand and model, then I think it's an issue specific to the cap and not the crossover.

If your Cornwall I's have never had the capacitors replaced, then it's time to do it and It can very well make a difference.

It's the contrasting dark veins that really make woods like these pop. I've dabbled in creating this contrast by dying wood black then wiping the dye off before staining.